Day 2 - Dawson City - Yukon Territory

Tuesday, August 14, 2012
Dawson City, Yukon, Canada
Today was the test -- could I keep upright for 100 miles of dirt and gravel road as it wound along the ridges between Alaska and the Yukon at 3,000 feet? It is called the Top of the World road, and it instills fear in the heart of many motorcycle riders. The route was short -- only 189 miles from Tok to Dawson, of which 89 were paved. Unpaved came in many forms -- hardened clay with almost no gravel (the best) -- clay with washboard (less good) -- clay with a reasonable sprinkling of gravel (not so good) and finally -- deep gravel (the worst). Keeping a two wheeled vehicle vertical at 35 mi per hour in deep gravel requires all your attention, as you search for tracks to follow without making any sudden turns or using the brakes. Hardest of all was not looking at the scenery, which was stunning. Hills and valleys rolling out to the horizon -- not the sharp ridges of the Alaska Range, but the rounded summits of a plateau that had been worn down by wind and rain.  

Dawson City, at the confluence of the Yukon and Klondike rivers, was the epicenter of the 1898 Gold Rush . At that time it had 30,000 stampeders. Now it has 1,900 people, well dug in and doing quite well I think. Tourism gives the town its life, and a major reconstruction project is underway to make it look like it did at the turn of the 19th century. I visited the writers corner of town, home to Robert Service (I can't escape him), Jack London and Pierre Berton. The three groups that make up this Northern town are clearly identifiable -- the First Nation folk, the locals (drawn from all over Canada) and the tourists (us). We all seem to get along pretty well, as long as the last group is spending money. I had also forgotten how British Canada can be, at times -- the Commissioner's home and the town clock brought it back.  

Today also happened to be the day that the re-enactors of the 1942 'Build the Alcan Highway' convoy came through driving their WWII Jeeps and Army Trucks up towards the road I had just come down. I wished them luck in their suspension free vehicles on that gravel.  

Again I had forgotten about Canadian hospitality -- but all the memories returned as a charming family took me to my tent at the back of their property and the 5 year old son showed me where to park my bike under the birches 10 steps from the platform. 

 
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Comments

Harry
2012-08-15

Jim, these are some of your most evocative shots. The place really comes alive. You do need to do a book, but the pictures and adventure are only part of it. The writing was good at the start, but is getting better and better. I'm really impressed and more than a little envious. It is a great adventure.

Gwynn
2012-08-18

Inuksuks - my favorite.

Gwynn
2012-08-18

The tent is just too, too cool. How hospitable. And the Top of the World road sounded pretty challenging.

Vince
2013-03-11

I see one of your fans is saying what I've been telling you. Write a book. The literary skills only get better. Is that our Harry posting comments?

2025-02-07

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