The line from Ellie's Seussical was gnawing at my brain as I bed down in the Wickersham dorm, donated to the University of Alaska, Fairbanks, by the generous Judge and Mrs Grace Wickersham. I couldn't quite remember how it went. Ellie set me right. We used to shout it in chorus with Gordon when it came round.

My return to the USA was like none I have ever had before . I approached Customs guy expecting the usual severe coming and going passport oriented questioning. After making me remove my helmet and wool cap, the official checks out my gloves: " Aerostich?" he asks. "Yeah" I say, wondering if I would have to give them up. "Got the same ones. They're indestructible."  he continues, and launches into a description of his own foray into the Dalton Highway wilderness. I almost became embarrassed for the car waiting behind me, as the best Customs official I have ever met is telling me about goosing his Triumph Triple up over the Atigun Pass with the power tracking set. He finally let me go after making sure I knew to spend the night at the University rooms, and where to change my tires. Best Customs experience ever !

I finally made it to Fairbanks, and went up the hill behind the town to the home of a guy who specializes in putting new tires on bikes wanting to face the Prudhoe Bay challenge. He was very obliging, and within an hour had taken off my old ones and set me up with a set which should see me through the 1000 mile Deadhorse challenge. He never stopped talking the whole time. I think of him as the quintessential Alaskan. Very strong views on everything animal, vegetable and political. Happy to be far from the Lower 48. Hasn't been back in years. Very good at what he does. I think I agreed with about half of his positions, but kept smiling and quiet as he did his work.

Tomorrow is rest day in Fairbanks, then onwards and Northwards.