Foncebadón, Castile and León, Spain and Canary Islands
Distance by the guide book - 21.3km
Total distance for the day - 21.5km
Flights climbed - 6 (Totally ripped off today!)
Today we started our climb up to the highest point on the Camino. We’ve stopped in Foncebadon for the night which is at an elevation of about 1400 metres. We started at 900 metres this morning in Murias so a climb of about 500 metres today. We went up about 250 metres in the first 15 kms so the elevation was slow and easy and barely noticeable overall. With another 250 metres in the last 6 kms we definitely knew we were climbing! Even though we will eventually be higher than we were on the highest point of the Pyrenees, it’s not going to be anything like that climb. Much less strenuous, thank goodness!
It was a lovely walk today. We went through a couple of pretty villages. We were going to stop in the first one, Santa Catalina de Samosa, for breakfast but the queue was so long and slow we decided to move on to the next village. In El Ganso we found a great spot to stop. An enterprising lady had a coffee shop/gift shop combo and most people were buying more than coffee. I was happy. I ordered tea and got a family sized pot, bonus!
Rabanal was another lovely stopping place. The village has beautifully restored stone houses. The main street starts the steep ascent up the mountain and has you huffing and puffing your way to the top.
The path, once we left Rabanal, became very rocky. It seemed to be shale with slices of rock falling away and onto the path.
It made for treacherous walking conditions. Thank goodness for hiking poles. The path was very rugged but the scenery was fabulous. There were wildflowers of every colour of the rainbow lining our pathway. As Sheila said it was just like someone planted a rock garden. It was beautiful. Unfortunately, of course, the photos don’t do it justice but trust me it was gorgeous. It made the climbing bearable and we had the added excuse of needing to stop for photos (and to catch our breath).
Foncebadon is another pretty village being brought back to life by the pilgrims who pass through every day. It sits on the edge of the mountain overlooking the valley. The Albergues, hotels and small businesses seem to be doing well and there are signs of more houses being renovated which is great to see. This is the last village before the final climb to Cruze de Ferro which we’ll do in the morning.
It is so dusty on the trail. Every day our hiking pants and shoes are covered in dirt. We’ve given up hand washing. It’s too hard trying to get the dust out of everything. It’s sad when a washer and dryer causes great excitement. Luckily most of the places that we’ve been staying have the machines so we’ve been saving up about three days worth of clothes and tossing them all in the washer. We love clean clothes. The pants stay clean for about 5 seconds once we’re outside again but at least they were clean for a moment! Don’t even ask about the shoes! Tried to clean them once, haven’t bothered since.
We’re off to have dinner in the dining room downstairs shortly. It’ll be a pilgrims menu. Three courses for 12 euros. The meals are not always that interesting but at least they’re filling. Sometimes they’re good, sometimes not so much but when the choices are limited you take what you can get. Sheila ordered a vegetable sandwich today for lunch and got egg, lettuce and a slice of tomato. You never know what you might get on your plate.
Just back from dinner. Quite good! Lentil soup, followed by meatballs and cheesecake. An early night for us. More climbing tomorrow.
Marl
2023-05-22
Best to not wash your shoes anyway, they might fall to bits! 🤣 Hope the hills tomorrow are not too bad. The wildflowers are beautiful.
Claire
2023-05-22
That shale section does look challenging, for you both as well as for your exhausted shoes! I’m really enjoying shots of the different albergues and the doors and flowers. 250 kms to go- woo hoo!
Karry
2023-05-22
The flowers look beautiful and so do the villages.
Chris
2023-05-22
Really interesting to read your foot prep routine. You’ve given it a lot of thought, but I suppose it’s the most important thing. You’ll have to frame those shoes when you get home. Xx
Jenny
2023-05-22
Thank goodness for wild flowers amid the shale on the track…don’t envy you on that pathway! I hope your shoes will last the distance..😘
Karen K
2023-05-22
An interesting day with the pretty wildflowers and nice villages. I’m really enjoying reading your blog every morning to see where you and Sheila have travelled that day!
Allan
2023-05-22
Every day brings more photographic delights ….. for us anyway! Hope you’re both still keeping up the positivity 4 weeks along . XX
Beth
2023-05-23
Just adding my encouragement, along with everybody else, Leanne. Loving your blog and photos. x
Enid
2023-05-23
Love the flowers and doors. You're almost there.
Suzanne
2023-05-23
Great photos, loving the beautiful flowers. Only 250 kms to go! you will be in Santiago before you know it. Stay strong.
Jodie
2023-05-23
Hope the shoes last the journey. I would have enjoyed the lentil soup... Take care and make the most of your amazing adventure.
Ange K
2023-05-23
Thanks again for sharing your trip with us. I didn't realise it would be so dusty but it makes sense. You two have learnt so much and I'm sure you have learnt to just roll with the ups and downs (pun intended) 🤣 Poor Sheila - mmmm- vegetable sandwich!!!
Karen
2023-05-24
Isn’t it interesting how much food differs from country to country?I could live on our salad sandwiches. You both look wonderful so you must be getting enough variety. Stay happy.🤗
Liz Davis
2023-05-28
Love hearing about your daily routines. All our lives revolve around having enough clean (or not) clothes and what/where the next meal will be. Interesting to hear how these things pan out on the Camino.