August 9

The larger than life Cesky Krumlov Castle, that dominates the skyline of this small village, is the second largest in the entire Czech Republic, behind the castle complex of Prague . 

Construction of the castle began in the 13th century. Over the years it was passed between the powerful Rosenberg, Eggenberg, and Shwarzenberg families...there's those Bergs again...before its final transfer to the Czechoslovak State in 1950, where it later became a monument in 1989. The crests of these three ruling families are present everywhere throughout the castle.

Compared to some of the other castles that we had visited earlier, this one was imposing but quite plain. The thing that struck me as the oddest feature was, instead of bas relief ceilings, beautiful statuary and colorful and elaborate tiles, tapestries and jewels, that adorned all of the other castles we had seen, the walls were painted to appear as though they were made from brick and the inside walls painted with designs to imitate the elaborate scenes and bas relief of the Renaissance period. The castle's most notable feature, its tower, was built in the Gothic style in the second half of the 13th century and remodeled in the Renaissance style in the late 1500s and the decorations on it, as well, had been painted . 

To arrive at the castle we went across an extensive bridge over a deep gap in the rock upon which the castle is built. Then, the most stunning feature was the view from the numerous cut outs in the wall as you go up the steps to the entrance gate where we delighted in the trio of young women singing and playing the violin, cello and flute.

We then went on a tour of the interior and, although not even coming close to the opulence of the castles in Prague, it was wonderful. One of the most interesting exhibits inside the castle was the Golden Carriage  This carriage was, indeed, opulent and was built to transport Johann Anton I. von Eggenberg on his famous journey to Rome in 1638 to make official contact with the Pope.

As we left the castle we were surprised to see a small brown bear in the moat below. Our guide told us that, according to the legend, the Rosenbergs were related to the noble Italian family of Orsini . "Orsa" means she-bear in Italian, and it is this animal motif that the Rosenberg rulers used in their coat-of-arms, in which two bears are shown as shield-bearers. This alleged relationship was to support the antiquity of the house of Rosenberg, leading its roots to as early as ancient Rome. The first records about bears being kept in the moat date from 1707 and, today, with four bears in residence, the tradition is being carried on.

As we descended down the steps of the castle, we took advantage of the fantastic photo ops of the town below through the small arched openings in the wall. We, then, were able to spend some time in the village below, poking into the charming shops and wandering through the narrow streets.

On our bus trip home, our guide recommended that, if we wanted to have a great traditional Czech culinary experience, we should dine at the U Fleku Brewery and Restaurant. Originally a family business, the pub was founded in 1499 and has been referred to as the oldest brewery in Prague . When we arrived back in Prague, we took her advice and headed to the restaurant. En route, we passed by a building with a very strange sculpture of a man hanging off the side of the building holding an umbrella. I've included a photo.

U Fleku was a huge, sprawling tavern with eight different rooms, each with its own individual design and laid out in true European beer hall style. The food was great and the atmosphere raucous, complete with an accordionist making his way around the various halls, entertaining the guests in a beer hall fashion. This was a perfect way to end our week in this fabulous city.

With our stomachs full and exhausted from a full day of sight-seeing, we walked back to our palace to pack up and get ready for our departure the next morning when we would be leaving to drive to our next home exchange in the mountains near the border of Poland, the vacation home of Pavel and Milana.  En route, I snapped a photo of a four story building, filled with bicycles. The neon light from above hit the tires just right to produce a really interesting effect.  Prague had been fantastic but, after a week of sensory overload, we were all looking forward to the serenity and change of pace in the mountains.
 
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