It's been awhile since my last blog entry, and this is due to the difficulty of finding reasonably priced Internet access along the way. The hotel rates are usurous and cafes have been few and far between. Our journey has continued to be a source of wonderment and delight. The richness of the experience has been beyond our wildest expectations. As previously reported, our preconceived notions and stereotypes have been shattered, and we feel so enriched by it all.
At this moment, I am sitting at a computer within sight of a strikingly ominous mountain in what is the oldest part of Sharm el Sheik, an area of ramshackle shops, produce vendors, and chachgas (tourist-oriented crap). Bonnie is off wandering in pursuit of nothing and everything. She enjoys the thrill of the hunt, and can haggle with the best of them. The dust of the desert pervades everything, as it kicks up in the light gusts which make the glaring heat of the day tolerable. It is something one gets used to when traveling here. Not a major hindrance by any means, just a fact of life. Situated on the Asia side of the Red Sea, Sharm is a resort town having a gorgeous seaside location, comprised of several bays, and endless beaches and shoreline. It is a mecca for package tour groups, coming in from the UK, Russia and Germany. Weather here is another indisputable benefit-- sun and blue skies. But the greatest draw is the coral reef which make it one of the top diving and snorkeling spots in the world. We are staying at a sprawling all-inclusive resort here, of which there are many. This resort would cost a small fortune if it were in North America, but the value of the Egyptian pound make it very reasonable, even for we Canadians, so we have been indulging ourselves. After the whirlwind pace of the first part of our trip, we needed some R&R, and this is the place to do it. We actually started our Red Sea encounter on the African side of the Red Sea, at another resort town, Hurghada, a down-market version of Sharm, about 3 hours away from Luxor. At Luxor, we had concluded the formal part of our Egypt visit, and were now on our own. No more guides, no more drivers, and no more ancient Egyptian history. But we were definitely up to the challenge, having been acclimated to the ways things are done here.
Getting to Hurghada was an adventure in itself. We took the local bus company, with 2 main groups--the locals and the backpackers. Among the foreigners, we were by far the oldest. Not the typical transportation for tourists of our age. Air-conditioning meant open-windows on this bus. The farms and villages (loosely-defined) belied the basic life of the Egyptian living in non-urban or non-tourist areas. Eye-opening, and fascinating and humbling. We felt so blessed for what we have, and yes, felt guilty for the excess.in our lives.Stopping at a roadside stand for a pee/smoke/drinks break was almost Twilight Zone-ish, in terms of the facilities available. As the ancient bus made its way on the surprising good roads, we passed many checkpoints in which soldiers kept track of the comings and goings of the vehicles, People here seem to take this within stride. and its not a biggie. Soon, the sunset appraoached, and the hazy golden tinge of the sky was laced with pink in what must be the fastest setting sun anywhere. Also, among the most beautiful, as well. I took some amazing shots, and this from a moving bus, no less. One will find its way onto our walls.
In Hurghada, we swam and ate and indeed rested for 2 heavenly days. There, too, our resort, which I had booked on the Net was located within a meticulously kept and lushly landscaped complex of several hotels. WE would gladly have spent several more days there, but we wanted to move on. A 2 hour speedboat ride across the calm Red Sea took us directly to Sharm. Once again, it was us and the backpackers, but they are a friendly bunch so it was as much a social scene as a voyage across.
We are so enjoying Sharm for many reasons. The people we have met have been memorable, the days loose and easy, the food of excellent quality and variety (turns out that we really enjoy Egyptian cuisine and will be seeking it out upon our return home). The day we arrived in Sharm happened to be Saturday. It also happened to be our 33rd anniversary. We spent the evening celebrating it at a Bedouin feast dressed in Bedouin attire along with 100 or so of our new best friends and a group of braying camels. What an experience this was. We sat on low reclining bench-like seats, ate a wide variety of Bedouin foods, drank Egyptian wine and beer, and watched a show of belly dancers (female and male), a fakir who performed with broken glass and bed of nails and a whirling dervish (imagine 20 minutes of twirling around in a tight circle--one minute of this would put me into Intensive Care). At one point, they called for 5 men to compete in a belly dancing contest. Bonnie said to me "You would never do this." So, of course I did, and based upon the votes of the crowd, I WON! Yes, after 33 years in love, there are still surprises in our marriage. To top off the evening, we were presented with an anniversary cake arranged by our hotel hostess, and asked to do an anniversary dance. The stars were glorious in the moonless desert night. It was a night we shall never forget.
Now for some news that is likely to shock you. I have picked up an amazing amount of Arabic along the way, having decided to actively learn as much as I could while here. My source was the Frommers Egypt travel book I bought and the people I've conversed with along the way. Most have been anxious to teach me more. It has actually been fun watching the reactions of shopkeepers , hotel staff and others when I start speaking to them in their language. Apparently thisis very uncommon and most simply do not believe that I have been here for 2 weeks and picked it up. When I tell them I'm American, it further rocks their world. Some don't believe that I 1) have never been in Egypt before, 2) that I am not from Arabic roots, 3) or that I haven't spoken it before. Bonnie has been asked by some to vouch for this.
In a few days time, we return to our active travels, with plans to go to Aqaba, a Jordanian city which is supposed to be amazing for its sights and location on the Gulf of Aqaba (and, to Bonnie's great anticipation, it is known as a shopping mecca due to its duty free status). After this, we are planning to join a desert safari to Petra, a site with great rep for its ancient buildings amid a striking natural setting. After this, and at last, Eretz Yisroel. We'll be crossing over into Israel to see Eilat and begin our month travelling south to north, east and west, until we feel that we have done it justice. After 30 years since our last visit, we have been told that what we encounter will blow us away. We also have a list of people to visit, as well. So, hopefully, we will have saved the best for last. Then, alas, we'll have to start looking for a flight home.
As always, I thank you for both reading this blog and especially those of you who have sent comments either on the blog or via email. It's good to hear from you.
Well-Rested and Pampered on the Red Sea
Saturday, May 30, 2009
Sharm El-Sheikh, Red Sea and Sinai, Egypt
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Comments

2025-02-16
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melissagquest
2009-05-29
Happy anniversary and Mazel tov!
What an incredible way to spend an anniversary. You certainly will never forget this one! Of course, we'll expect you to demonstrate your Arabic, David, so don't forget over the next few months or we won't believe your blog, LOL. Thanks for sharing your amazing experience with us back home.
Mici