The Sun, the Sands, the Safari, and the Stars

Friday, June 05, 2009
Petra, Jordan
Imagine the endless sands of the desert, punctuated by dramatic granite and sandstone mountain ranges. Now imagine a relentless sun, an impossibly azure sky, a punishing heat, and no signs of life whatsoever. Finally, picture a 4x4 straining to get through the sands, its engine roaring in fury, with 4 occupants atop, it's driver confidently pushing forward through the lands his people have called home for generations. With Bonnie and I, our new friends Michael and Bridget from Switzerland, and our Bedouin driver Mahmoud at the wheel, we were exploring Wadi Rum, a UN protected heritage site. For us, it was an awe-inspiring journey over the better part of a day through a world completely foreign and stark in nature. For Mahmoud, it was another day at the office. As best we tried, It was clear that no camera could capture the absolute beauty of the land. We were left dumbstruck by what we were seeing, and it was simply impossible to focus on anything but the experience we were sharing. The intensity of it was unlike anything we had ever experienced, and the rewards were beyond words. Thus was the day on our desert safari. A sunset approached, the sky was ablaze with red and amber, and the sands mirrored its reflection. The sun quickly set, and we were soon at our desert camp where we would spend the night and the next morning. 

When we arrived, a blazing fire was underway, as our Bedouin hosts were busy preparing the evening meal, lamb and chicken kebabs, various salads, rice and potatoes. The smell was intoxicating and as we relaxed at fire's edge, we were offered delicate glasses of sweet cardomon tea, a Bedouin tradition, and we were welcomed as their guests. We were then shown to our tents, which were made of goat hair, and were candlelit and cozy. The floors were carpets laid over warm soft sand, with a large comfy bed as the tents focal point. These were not your traditional camping-type tents--these were large and roomy, and very inviting. It would not be difficult spending the night here. 

Dinner was relaxed, accompanied by a Bedouin softly strumming a mandolin-like instrument and singing age-old traditional songs. As we dined under a blanket of stars in the cooling air, the effect was ethereal. We were overtaken by a sense of calm and serenity and asked ourselves, it this a real or a dream? It was an early evening, as we were exhausted by the day's events. The stillness of the desert evening was only interrupted by the hooting of owls in the far-off distance, or the occasional howls of the hyenas which lived in the nearby mountains.

The next morning, I decided to get up early for the sunrise. I wandered off a fair ways from the campsite, and the silence was eerie. The moon was my only companion, I awaited the breaking day, and I was soon rewarded by a stunning sunrise. I also had time to reflect on this trip and the profound effect it has had on us. By the time I got back to the camp, breakfast was being prepared and we had to start packing up for our one-hour bus trip to our next destination, the place we are now, Petra, Jordan. Bonnie and I were the only foreigners on the bus, since this was not the way tourists usally travel through these parts. But I had made friends with some well-connected people while in Aqaba, and they made our travel arrangements for us. My Arabic actually helped get us favours that money could not buy. My new friends made calls on our behalf to their friends in the area, and we were accorded a hospitality that was just amazing. We got discounts on hotel rooms, admissions, and other things. Doors just opened up for us.

For instance, on the day we arrived in Petra, it was recommended that we might want to visit a Turkish Bathhouse, where I had my first Turkish bath. This was such a self-indulgent thing to do, and I loved every minute of it. I was first drenched in mildly cold water, then had a long session in a hot steam room, had another cold water rinse, then a thorough body scrubbing, hot stones, and the piece de resistance, a full body massage by a real pro. Ohmigod, once I had showered off, my skin tingled and I virtually squeeked when I walked. Now, you might ask, what about my dear wife and her Turkish bath? Well, here's where the story gets ugly!

Bonnie had not been feeling up to snuff for the past 4-5 days. She had been feeling some nausea and had been bringing up daily. While she'd been poo-pooing it, it came to a head yesterday at the Turkish bath. She was really feeling lousy, and a doctor was called. We took her to a nearby clinic where they did some tests. Lo and behold, my wife, who is kind to creatures great and small, had picked up an amoeba- like parasite, and offered it refuge in her intestines. Likely due to having eaten some food like poorly-washed vegetables. Now for the good news--it's quite common in these parts, and easily treated with medication. So, as in Croatia and her finger infection a few years back, Bonnie has given us an opportunity to experience the Jordanian medical system. Turns out it's pretty good. The doctor was a kind man, who makes house calls from his clinic, and was very sensitive to our needs as people passing through. Today, Bonnie was notably better already, and she should continue to improve.

As for today, we spent a full eight hours walking through the Petra site. It is an unreal experience, as you begin by walk roughly a mile through a narrow twisting multi-hued canyon floor. This ends at a juncture, the Treasury, as its known, which contains a building 43 meters high and 30 meters wide (1 meter =39 inches, for the Americans) and is entirely carved out of the rockface with intricate carvings depicting various goods and goddesses, sacred animals and other ritualistic symbology. Rooms are carved beyond the entrance. Besides the sheer scope and size of this edifice, the striking thing is that it was created in the first century AD and is still in its full glory today. Ironically, scholars are still uncertain of why it was built, although it is commonly believed to be the tomb of a popular king of the time, and a place of rituals. However, beyond the Treasury, there is much, much more to the Petra site, including hundred of carved tombs dating back to the same time, a huge ampitheatre carved into the stone, and many other archeological features/sites as well. Basically, you are walking the entire day, though a very hot and dusty area, going from site to site. While I haven't painted this with a very attractive sounding brush, believe me, it is something worth seeing. In fact, it's considered one of the 8 wonders of the modern world. The people who built this were a highly creative and intelligent bunch, especially given the time it was constructed, and the tools available at the time. Really mind-boggling. Despite Bonnie's little bug, she made it through the day, but i have to say that for me, the highlight of the day happened in the last half-hour we were at the site. Bonnie rode a donkey to the exit, and this I had to video. (I'll leave the ass jokes up to you). I chose to walk, when the donkey suggested that perhaps he should be riding me to the exit.) Sorry for the cheap humour, folks, but you know how I like to entertain myself.

Well, it's time to conclude now. Tomorrow, at 9 we board yet another local bus taking us to the Jordan-Israel border, with Eilat as our destination. There, we intend to rest up for a few days of fun on the Mediteranean before we continue our journey north to the Dead Sea and beyond. The adventure continues.

All the best, and once again, we love your feedback, expecially since it's been so positive! Seriously, thanks for the contact--we're beginning to get a little homesick.

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Comments

cissie.retired
2009-06-06

Another wonderful essay!
Love to read your travel descriptions, but sorry to hear that Bonnie had a parasite. Also happy to read she is better and again enjoying the travel. Your writings are so interesting and the sights and events you've experienced make the trip even better to read about.
Safe journey to Israel...

liliens
2009-06-09

Re: Traveling With The Liliens
Hi Myrna Warren and Joel, from steamy Eilat
It's a blazing 41 degrees here, well over 100 degrees F. I can't thank you enough for your comments and frequent emails. Myrna, it has been the trip of a lifetime and every day is unique and an adventure.In an hour we fly to Tel Aviv to visit with Bon's second cousin. After that, ????. AS you know , we're making it up as we go along. Bon is all better now, but it was rough going for a while there. Until it was diagnosed, we had no idea. Thankfuuly, aa few pills and shes the picture of health. Even at her worse, we still had full days.

Look for a new blog entry soon. Don't know what's wrong with my family--Mimi and Wendy--no comments on blog. DOn't even know if they're reading it, which saddens me. ANywho, we hope that your vacation plans are gelling. Let us know.

Will email again soon.

Love
D&B

2025-02-10

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