SOUTH AFRICA ENGAGES

Sunday, February 14, 2016
Johannesburg, Gauteng, South Africa
Johannesburg was our first destination in South Africa, and it did not disappoint. In fact, it overwhelmed and enveloped us. Upon arriving we noticed the distinctive ambiance of the airport.  Sure, there was the usual pace of people scurrying either to or from the place, but we were astounded by the variety of garb, races, and even languages we observed (SA has 11 official languages!). Armed only with the address of the B&B we had booked the night before via computer, we managed to do quite well, mainly because English is the most common language. After traveling in so many countries where this isn't the case, it was refreshing to be able to ask and be answered in our mother tongue. Mind you, the accents ranged from very to barely understandable. 

We were staying a ways out of the main city, advisable given safety considerations, as recommended by most travel guides and sources . Yes, we were constantly reminded to stay aware of our situation at all times. The high crime rate and personal violence levels in Johannesburg call for vigilance. But, fortunately, we neither experienced or witnessed anything that would have given us any concern. We did follow the advice of not being out at night. However, truth be told, we found the people we spoke with to be very helpful, friendly, and lovely. Here's one example. When we got to the neighborhood of our B&B, we were completely lost, and were schlepping our bags up the hilly street in the heat of the day. Suddenly, a woman stopped her car, and offered us a lift. She said that we looked like we needed it. We gladly took her up on her offer, and a few minutes later found ourselves at the front door of Le Petit Fillan, a beautiful villa in a gated community. No wonder we couldn't find it! Speaking of which, properties in the suburbs we saw were mainly surrounded by high walls topped with electrified wire. Security was obviously a high priority; we felt like we were living in an armed compound

We spent two days on the hop-on-hop-off bus, and it was perfect for seeing all of the main sights as well as getting a good overview of the city, its history and its challenges. Johannesburg's roots are tied to the discovery of gold in the late 1880's, which brought people from everywhere looking to make their fortune. Few did, but the rest found themselves living lives in the poorest of conditions. This helped sow the seeds which led to apartheid The conditions which bred apartheid and its institutionalization led to abysmal abuses of human rights. A good deal of the focus of our stay in Johannesburg centred upon the people, places, and events of apartheid, and its ultimate end. We visited the Apartheid Museum, toured the townships of Soweto, visited a number of sights like Mandela's house, the prisons where political prisoners were kept and where many dissidents died, or where student uprisings led to the deaths of thousands. We also visited sights which honoured these people and what they accomplished . It was so very moving. The term "man's inhumanity to man" sprung to mind, and we were left changed by the experience.  

As for the city, rarely, have we observed more contrasts. Imagine the Apartheid Museum immediately next to an amusement park and opulent casino, shanty towns comprised of the flimsiest of materials aside upscale "Hollywood Hills' type homes, multitudes of beggars and hawkers populating the streets filled with luxury cars. There appears to be lots of infrastructure work going on, such as roadwork improvement, but some sidewalks are barely passable. Banks are large and plentiful. Department stores adjacent to streets where vendors sell their goods from carts or tarps on the street. 

I guess that the picture that I have painted is less than positive, but I must say that we were quite impressed with the city ; its amazing energy level, its most interesting history, and in the progress it seems to be making in re-inventing itself from it's mining days . There is obviously a lot of business being done here, and that is driving the growth of the city, which, by the way, covers a huge area. In fact, it is the fifth largest in the world by area, yet is not located on any body of water, something rare in a world-class city of this size. There is a plethora of cultural events and installations, a thriving arts scene, and a sense that the future holds great prospects for continued growth. There seems to be a great deal of political and economic upheaval underway, given the news in the local papers (but then, where isn't that true these days!).

In most of our blogs, we have focused on ourselves and reaction to our destinations, but Johannesburg must be the exception. The city is the story that needs to be told. Our exposure to it was very rudimentary, but it did give us an appreciation for what has happened and is happening here. 


Our next destination will be Capetown, on the southwestern coast, which we have been told, will exceed our every expectation. Time will tell.


 



 

Comments

Myrna
2016-02-16

Another fascinating entry from our two favorite tour guides. You have a beautiful way of sharing your experiences in South Africa so as to make us feel we are there, standing alongside of you. Certainly sounds like there continues to be a discrepancy in lifestyles in Johannesburg, but I take note of this in nearly all big cities in the U.S. We look forward to your next blog from Capetown. We miss and love you!!

Cecile Lapowich
2016-02-17

What a wonderful descriptive blog about Johannesburg! I have very good friends who hail from both from Johannesburg and Capetown, and I read your entry to them for Johannesburg. They were delighted and enjoyed it immensely...as did I. I hope you continue to be amazed by this vibrant and ever changing country. I look forward to your next entry.

Melissa Gold
2016-02-17

Hey kids, happy to hear you're having a good time, an edifying time. I love reading your blogs! Happy travels!

Rita MCGill
2016-02-17

Yes it is an interesting city. You'll love Capetown too

Hope Springman
2016-02-18

Loved your Johannesburg blog - what an incredible city, and the beautiful spirit of the people comes through! From your words, we get the sense that history continues to be written, and one cannot fail to be changed by this experience. Wishing you safe travels as you make your way to Capetown! Love, Hope

Joseph
2016-02-18

Wow! everything I have heard previously, you guys are experiencing first hand. Enjoy that part of the world and its ever changing progress. Thanks for sharing thru your wonderful blogs. As always I feel privileged to be almost travelling and experiencing the sights with you.

2025-02-15

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