SAFARI, SO GOOD

Thursday, March 03, 2016
Thornybush Nature Reserve, Limpopo, South Africa
We wrapped up our South African visit with a bang, opting for a 3-day safari.There are two main ways to do a safari-- either in a national park, or in one of the dozens of private game reserves throughout the country. We were advised to go the latter route because of the quality of the experience. With the help of an Africa travel expert, Dave Patterson, who we found on TripAdvisor, we chose Thornybush Nature Reserve in the Kruger National Park area, and within this, the Serondella Lodge. It would blow the budget, but we thought that this once-in-a-lifetime experience was worth it. 

Confident of my driving skills on these left-hand roads, we opted to drive the 7-8 hours to Thornybush, with the essential GPS as our guide. My luck held at Thrifty, as my cheapie Corolla was upgraded to a very sexy white Infiniti Q50. I could get used to this life! This car had guts, and it made the very scenic drive that much more fun. Roads, for the most part were good, although potholes and gravel roads, in spots, introduced some challenge into the drive. We got an unintentional spinal massage from the experience. The last 20 kms were particularly harrowing, as we were driving in the bush, on unpaved unsigned roads. We got lost, not something you want to do, when surrounded by lands containing all manner of wild beasts, A rental cellphone saved the day, as a call to the lodge got us straightened out. This is why so many people just fly in and arrange a private car to take them into the bush. But, not the Liliens! No, we had to play the Stanley and Livingston roles, exploring our way in. But, we arrived alive and none too worse for wear.

Serondella Lodge lived up to its reputation, being both rustic and beautiful at the same time. Our cottage was luxuriously furnished and decorated, in stark contrast to its surroundings. The main lodge featured a very comfortable, airy main room and a viewing platform overlooking a natural water hole popular with the bush denizens. The day and night would feature a constant stream of individual animals or herds enjoying its refreshment. This part of South Africa is suffering from a long drought which has really made things difficult for the animals.Water supply and the vegetation which sustains them is at a premium. 

Twice daily, at 5 am and 4 pm, we would go into the bush for four hours at a stretch with our knowledgeable friendly guide, Chewy, and his partner Condiff who acted as a spotter, looking for animal activity, tracks, poops, broken branches, etc. These were a sign that animals had been or were near. We went deep into the bush, never sure just what we would encounter. There were no guarantees, but every time we ventured into the wild, we would encounter amazing sights, and wild beasts of all types. Everyone always talks about the Big 5, five animals that are considered essential finds during these safaris, and over the 3 days, we managed to see them all. They are in a perpetual lie and death struggle for survival, and no intervention of any type is done. This is not African Lion Safari, a manufactured animal encounter experience. It is real life in the bush, and it is harsh for predators and prey alike. We learned so much about animal behaviour from our guide who was passionate about his work. 

We encountered some rare finds, such a a leopard feasting on a huge fresh kill cape buffalo . It was gruesome, but fascinating as we watched him gorging himself on soft facial flesh, eyes, and organs. We saw a herd of elephants fleeing a huge bull elephant in heat, a serious threat to the elephants and humans alike. We gave them a wide berth. We found a nest of hyenas, a nocturnal animal, and saw pups being nursed by these fearsome canine-like animals.I could go on and on, and have included some of the sights we encountered in the pictures attached. (As you will see, this entry has an unusually high number of pictures because we wanted to share a small portion of the visual feast we experienced.) 

We just loved the entire safari experience, and we were extremely lucky, too. The weather was comfortably cool (previous week saw temps into the high 30s Celsius (100+ degrees F), and the mosquito population was down due to the drought. This meant that any threat of malaria (in this malaria-prone area) was minimal. We brought the pills, and bug spray, but neither were needed. Speaking of bugs, we had close encounters with some huge, ugly bugs. They were everywhere, including our bedroom. Thus, we slept with the protection of netting. Each morning, we would find a collection of bugs hanging on to the netting, on the walls, floors, in the shower, etc. Living on a ravine, bugs are something we have long ago learned to live with. But, some of these were downright disgusting or were too big to kill, but we definitely wanted to . Imagine a beetle over an inch long. Say no more. 

The sunrises and sunsets were spectacular and the night skies were a planetarium show in the making. Meals were outdoors on the patio, lovely and delicious. Each meal was an event. The lodge accommodated only 8 guests per night, so the attention we got was outstanding. We had ostrich and kudu, an antelope cousin. Both were quite yummy, and not at all gamey. South African dishes were featured, and it just reinforced what we had discovered earlier on our trip-- we love the foods of SA. Who knew?

At the end of 3 days, we felt that we had been so lucky to experience a safari like this one. It was something that will remain a vivid memory for the rest of our lives, and there could not have been a more satisfying conclusion to our most wonderful visit to South Africa. 

We now fly to Tel Aviv. Our next blog entry will come after our first week as volunteers with the IDF, the Israeli army. We know not at which base we will be stationed or what work assignments we will be given, but we are so excited about the next 2 weeks. Stay tuned......
  


 



 
 

Comments

Valerie Gerechter
2016-03-06

Wow!!! That's all I can say - it looks so amazing. What an incredible experience!! Some of the pics of the animals look like they posed for you?

Cecile
2016-03-06

What a fantastic experience! The pictures you've taken make the description so real. Both so enjoyable! Love your accommodations for this "safari". You definitely picked the right one to go on.

Myrna
2016-03-06

Your photos are National Geographic worthy! I am so impressed by not only your vivid descriptions which make everything you have experienced come to life but your pictures look as if you did not only go on a safari but lived amongst the wildlife....simply breathtaking!
Safe travels as you protect Israel from its enemies! Enjoy the remainder of your stay! Miss and love you!

Hope Springman
2016-03-06

This was one of your best blogs ever! Your descriptions of travelling to and through the wilds of South Africa are incredible, and the photos are beautiful and fascinating! You both deserve t-shirts that advertise "No Fear!" Your descriptions are so vivid that it was actually suspenseful reading them! Wishing you safe travels to Israel and more extraordinary experiences as you volunteer with the IDF. Love, Hope

rita
2016-03-08

wow you are adventuresome! We flew to our safari and were driven in - you have many exciting memories! Our cabin in the was good - I didn't see nay bugs, which is a good thing because I would have had a nervous breakdown. Did you see the big 5 ? All the best as you venture on to Israel. Another exotic and learning experience. That is something I'd really love to do! Take care of yourselves. Hugs

2025-02-12

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