ICELAND, NICE LAND

Tuesday, October 11, 2016

Reykjavík, Iceland

As a believer in the concept of "Truth in Advertising," I am sad to report that the Northern Lights contained in the title of this blog were a no-show. Weather was simply not right. It was cold enough, but skies were cloudy; hence, no visibility, hence, we now have a reason to return to Iceland. Which we will gladly do. What an extraordinary place to visit! Visually stunning scenery, warm friendly residents, and a culture unique to itself. Being an island, it has a vague parallel to Newfoundland, in that it represents its own ecosystem. As one guy put it: “Hey we're all related somehow or another.” With only 330,000 people in Iceland (substantially less than the population of Buffalo), that’s not surprising.

Here are some quick observations:

1) Come with a thick wallet, as prices are extraordinary, even by European standards (yes, Iceland is considered part of Europe)

Colourful Reykjavik rooftops

.

2)   Bring a good umbrella, gloves, and a hat. You’ll likely need one or all. Every day of our visit saw showers, but rather than downpours, it was perpetually drizzly. Enough to annoy, but not enough to affect our trip. We had been aware that this is what you can expect in October, so we were equipped for it. Wind was another factor. We were warned continuously to hold on to our car doors as we opened them, as windblown doors flying off cars is a regular occurrence here. Finally, temperatures ranged from balmy to borderline frosty, often in the same day.

3)   Speak only English? Then, this is the place you should travel to, since it’s commonly spoken here. And if Icelandic isn’t your thing, you’ll find their signs can be unintentionally funny.

4)   Iceland is an island, so guess what food predominates here? You guessed it--seafood with scales or shells is the common fare

Our cozy B&B 'cottage' and car

. (Though all the fast food options are available, except McDonalds. No Micky Ds in Iceland. Why? You’ll have to ask Ronald).

5) If you come in October, you get both daylight and night. In the summer it’s virtually all sun, while winter is virtually all darkness.

We had a wonderful stay in Reykjavik, the capital. We found a B&B just outside the city, which was easily accessible with our car, a cute little red Suzuki Swift. We stayed in a cottage that had been converted from a garage, but it was cozy, and private, with all the amenities, including a well-stocked kitchen available 24/7 to the guests, when a late night snack was in order. The homemade fresh bread was reason enough to get up each morning. We’d have breakfast and then make sandwiches for a picnic lunch. Perfect.

Rekjavik has a maritime feel to it, with an active port, quaint architecture and narrow streets

Bonnie being Lagooned

. It seems to be going through a growth phase with lots of cranes visible throughout. Tourists roamed the streets in large numbers. We were actually surprised at this, but it appears that tourism drives the economy, given the downtown businesses geared to them. Tour companies seem to be making a killing from adventure sports and activities like glacier climbing, bus trips to stunning countryside attractions, whale watching, and the mother lode of all, the Blue Lagoon. It’s a pricey out-of-town excursion to a geothermal hot water bathing facility, a “must-do” for all tourists, at $60 a head. Admittedly, it’s a worthwhile diversion because of its azure-coloured water surrounded by the black lava that forms the surface of the land. It felt indescribably wonderful to soak in that water as the cold winds blew around us. Bonnie and I were the last people out of the lagoon that night.

One day, we spent 9 hours driving what is known as the Golden Circle route. It takes you through gorgeous scenery on the way to geysers, spectacular waterfalls, and the national park which is the location of the rift between the tectonic plates of the Americas and Eurasia, (moving apart at 2 millimeters a year according to the experts)

Whale of a penis

. The drive took us to a volcanic circular crater lake, and numerous horse farms where you could just pull over and pet these beautiful horses, a breed unique to Iceland.

Other days, we visited tourist sites in the city, took a walking tour of the inner city and a driving tour of points of interest, indulged in fish and chips, avoided whale meat (a meal served here), and went to a flea market (Iceland style- no haggling, overpriced, polite behavior, well-laid out, lots of sweaters and knitted gloves, no smoking, no junk food sellers, no bargains).

We visited one particularly noteworthy place, the world’s only penis museum. Officially known as the Icelandic Phallological Museum, it houses hundreds of different penises, ranging from minute bug penises up to the impressive organs of whale and elephants. These are displayed in well-organized cases, grouped by size or species. There are also items of all things penis, such as lights made from animal testicles, cartoons, sculptures, and detritus. One of the funniest displays had a team picture, and below it was a trophy of their actual penises modeled and cast in silver. (The goalie appeared to be particularly gifted!) One funny aside— while we were there, the majority of visitors were women. They were studying the displays intently. What this means, I have no idea, but it was odd nonetheless. (No doubt, the Donald would have something obnoxious to say about it).

We also came within minutes of meeting Yoko Ono who was in town for a special occasion. Each year, between John Lennon’s birthday and the day of his death (about 3 months), a strong beam of light (called the Peace Tower) is lit in the skies. A whole celebration occurs around this event, and we shared it from the crowded deck of a boat in the harbor. It was a happening. As it turned out, we befriended a group of Gen-Xers, and we all hooked up for beers and laughs at a nearby restaurant. They considered us “cool” and we kept thinking about what our kids would say when we told them. And what a polyglot of nationalities we were. Poland, the US, Canada, Columbia, and Scotland were represented. Kurt, the Scotsman, was a riot, and he had us in stitches all night. (It was the beer talking).

And with this, I will close off this blog. Our next entry will be from Marrakech in Morocco, which will undoubtedly be in sharp contrast to this one.

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Comments

Cecile Lapowich
2016-10-13

Hello Bonnie and David,
So wonderful to hear from you in Iceland. Another friend with whom I play bridge is going there soon, so I'll be sure to tell her about your experience. It is a place I would like to visit.
A museum devoted to penises!!!! WOW! I'm speechless.
Safe travel and soon you'll be able to warm up. I look forward to your blog from Marrakech.

Atiq
2016-10-13

Hi D and B,
It's great to read your blog.
I love the washroom sign, SNYRTING and the road sign looks fun and hard to read!
The penis museum sounds AWESOME. The whale part is massive and where are the balls?
I think the reason why women were studying the penis displays is because they want to know if there is any similarity between the ones on display and the ones they know.
Keep you the blog and be well.

Atiq
2016-10-13

Hope Springman
2016-10-14

Hi Bonnie and David, there's definite an "icy tinge" to this blog, and I loved your photos, as well as your descriptions of the Blue Lagoon, penis museum, the flea market, and the Golden Circle exploration route. Safe travels to Morocco, and your fans eagerly await your next travel entry. Love, Hope

Myrna
2016-10-16

Sounds like yet another Lilien adventure is successfully underway! Iceland sounds lovely and your adventures continue to bring smiles and laughter. A penis museum?? Only the two of you would find this in your travels! Your blog is fascinating and we wish we were there with you....something in our futures! Continue to enjoy your travels and each other. Be well and be happy you are living inCanada....these debates are getting insane with Trump now asking that drug testing be done before the next shouting match! Love you both!

melissagquest
2016-10-17

I love this entry! I've always wanted to visit Iceland. Now I know when to go, What to see and what not to eat, LOL.

brigherfam
2016-10-18

Hi Bonnie and David,
Wow; what an amazing place. So glad you are enjoying everything about Iceland.

2025-03-23

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