After a few days in the maelstrom known as Rome, it was time for a somewhat saner environment, so we sought refuge in a delightful coastal area known as Cinque Terra. This popular region comprises 5 seaside towns connected by a trail, each with its own particular charms, and each with its own physical challenges for tourists. Without doubt, much of the charm is in the relationship of the citizens with their mountainous coastal environment. Enough of this mumbo-jumbo, the long and short of this special region is that each town has managed to maintain much of its original character in spite of the large volume of tourists. Almost everywhere, the sea is visible, the air is fresh, the vegetation lush, and the hilly streets a challenge to (our) weary feet. In one town, Monterossa, we found a beautiful, albeit small beach, sunning ourselves there for several hours. Unfortunately, the crystal clear water was a bit too cold for swimming for all but the heartiest. In another, Manarola, we walked a cliffside trail overlooking olive and lemon orchards, terraced fields of grapevines, and winding narrow streets far below, always with the sea in the background. The walking and talking was invigorating and tiring at the same time. Cinque Terra was so worthwhile, as a means of rebalancing us after the chaos of Rome as well as giving us a chance to renew our batteries. A few years back, Amy, our daughter came back from visiting Europe and she called it her favourite place. Now, we understood why. After 2 days, we were now ready to move on to Florence and the Tuscany region.
Florence gave us an opportunity to see where the Renaissance began at the conclusion of the Dark Ages
. It produced so many household names such as Leonardo da Vinci, Galileo, Dante, and Michaelangelo. Filled with unequalled beauty in its art and its architecture, we did most of the usual sights (eg the Uffizi), but for us, our B and B was the star of the show. We were staying in a villa just on the outskirts of the city. Everything about it was heavenly, except for the difficulties of finding it after a long day of sightseeing. We had lunch on the patio to the chirping of birds, ate yummy homemade breakfasts, and were hosted by a sweet proprietor who knew how to do it all well. For instance, as we said our goodbyes 2 days later, she handed us a bottle of local wine and a bouquet of pink flowers and rosemary just picked from her garden, to celebrate our 35th anniversary. Bonnie cherished that bouquet, carrying it all over for days afterward.
Florence was also our intro to Tuscany, and we took a day bus tour visiting 3 delightful Tuscan cities, Siena, San Gimignano, and Pisa, where lots of cheesy leaning tower pictures were taken
. Each of these 3 towns is loaded with history, and we got to learn all about the historic competition between Florence and the others which continues to this day, as well as getting a guided tour of each. The region reminded us of Pennsylvania, with its rolling hills and deep valleys, with scenic panoramas aplenty. I was snapping pictures like a nature-crazed papparazi. Also included was a lunch at an organic farm and winery, with wine tasting. This meant 4 different bottles of wine for the 4 of us, one with each lunch course. While the food was fresh and delicious, the tour participants got seriously more animated after the wine. We, and Howie and Gloria, our travelling buds, got silly happy drunk in the process. The tour was an unforgettable day, but nothing compared with the adventure to follow.
The following day, we were taking a train heading to Rome's port for our second cruise. Now, on many Italian trains, they require you to buy a ticket beforehand and then validate it at a machine in the originating station
. Crazy system, but it is what it is. Well, in our late-night rush to make the train, we neglected to punch our tickets. (This, by the way, was around 11 pm on a Sunday night). When the conductor came by and saw the unpunched tickets, all hell broke loose. In almost operatic fashion, he began an "aria" of yelling, citing rules and regulations (in Italian, of course). We became the evening’s entertainment for the rest of the passengers, who clearly found it a fun diversion. They became the ad hoc jury, as they loudly debated the pros and cons of the offence amongst themselves. We were required to pay a huge penalty ($150) on the spot for what was really such a minor omission. He was adamant in wanting to collect. We were equally entrenched in our refusal to pay. 'YOU MUSTA TO PAY PENALTY! ITSA DA LAW’. We calmly replied ‘No’, feeling that the circumstances did not merit the fine. Seeing this, he then tried negotiating it down to half. We remained unmovable. He demanded our passports. We refused again
. When he realized that his yelling and screaming did not have its desired impact on us, he threatened to call the police. ‘Fine’, we said, ‘call the police’. We wanted to explain what had happened to someone who was rational. He left us, but soon returned with a young guy in a tattered shirt and torn jeans who shows us an id card that could have been his health club membership, for all we knew. Of course, he spoke no English. I honestly found it comical and knew it would be a great story to tell afterward. Bonnie, still clutching her bouquet like a bride, was somewhat more concerned. I told her that, at worse, we wouldn’t have to worry about having to pay for our hotel room since we would be enjoying the accommodation provided by the local constabulary. I also felt that the local polizia would be very easy on us tourists. Sure enough, when we arrived at our destination, there were 2 uniforms waiting for us, or as I called them, Toodio and Muldooni. <> The bottom line was that instead of being treated as flagrant law-breaker public villains, we were given celebrity treatment by these officers, who arranged to have us driven to our hotel at midnight (the owner was our driver!)
. The police officers never once mentioned the unpunched ticket, the fine, the conductor, or anything else. They were more interested in talking about New York City and America. And I swear I am not making this up, but as they bid us farewell, and wished us a pleasant journey, Toodio gave me a warm hug and a kiss on both cheeks! .........Is this a story to tell the grandchildren, or what???
One last comment, and this relates to the taste in the title of this blog entry. Besides the above-mentioned lunch, we have had some really great meals while in Italy, with the freshest of ingredients, judicious use of herbs and spices, delicious pizzas, pasta, pasta, and more pasta. We’ve had more than our fair share of Gelato (Italian ice cream which is to die for), limoncello (a potent liquor made from lemons), the aforementioned excellent local wines, and extra virgin olive oil on everything!
There is just one PS, and it’s a joke. Here goes:
Question: How do we know that Jesus was Italian?
1) His mother thought he was a god.
2) He thought that his mother was a virgin, and
3) He lived at home until he was thirty.
Next blog entry will likely come from Crete. Please keep the comments coming. While we’ve been lax in replying, we love getting them.
David and Bonnie
ITALY TASTED AND WE GOT WASTED
Thursday, May 26, 2011
Florence, Tuscany, Italy
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Comments

2025-02-10
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Amy Lilien
2011-05-26
This is a great blog entry! So full of colourful description and activity. It really gives one a good feel of the hospitality and adventure that accompanies a trip to Italy! It sound wonderful... And, I don't know if there's ever a tourist who hasn't been caught up in an adventure with over zealous train conductor while traveling in Europe. Glad you got out of that one unscathed... Keep the blogs coming. And, most importantly, keep doing what you're doing. There is so much sweetness out there to be tasted. It's so great that you have the opportunity to sink your teeth in!
Allan or Lorraine Sheps
2011-05-27
Too much beauty, too much good food, too much chaos, too many wonderful encounters, there ought to be a law. I can just see you on the train saying NO, NO, NO. It all sounds like a scene from comedia dell'arte, thatsa particular form of improvised comedy popular in Italia. We're still plugging away on making our plan for Florence and 5 Terre and I'm only hoping that we have half as much fun. Since we're likely to use the same Florence to Rome connection,can we buy the unpunched tickets that you talked about selling to us before you left, in case you were able to pull off the STUNT How about 15 Euros per?
Its been raining a lot and the flowers are gorgeous but I'm sure nothing like hills of Tuscany. Take care.
Allan
The Sunnies
2011-05-27
Once again, you have described what can only be one of the most magnificent stops along your journey! And only YOU could end up on a train being screamed at by the ticket taker, provide entertainment for the other passengers (happy, I am certain, that they were not the objects of this mans' ravings and rantings!) to be kissed, hugged and greeted like royalty by the awaiting police! Had it been US, I would have used my one phone call to have Allan get us out of jail! Ah, but these are the joys of traveling and yes, what stories you will share with the grandkids!
As is always the case, it was wonderful reading about your journey.....I must tell you again that I think that writing a travel book is in your future! You could make a fortune and then travel some more......Joel could market the books for you!
May your journeys continue to be safe and may you have MANY MORE stories to look back on and smile!
cissie.retired
2011-05-27
Hi guys!
Happy belated Anniversary! I know it's May 22, so I'm happy you enjoyed yourselves.
What a great blog with such great descriptions of EVERYTHING. I loved your story of the "operatic" complainer, who lost in his determination to get you to bend and pay! Bravo! It's definitely a great story for the grandchildren.
We've been deluged with more rain and very cool temperatures, so May has not been a welcomed month this year, but since we're close to June, perhaps things will change.
We're all are well here and having fun with both grandsons. I look forward to your next write-up from Crete...safe journeys.
Cecile
aTiq
2011-05-29
It is fun to read your blog. Your description of the places is so vivid that i feel that i am there, living your stories yet I am not. I might be physically sitting in my MTL living room, far from where your stories takes its color and shape but your entries helps me plan to see those places you described. Thanks for the vision.
Enjoy the rest of your journey!
melissagquest
2011-05-30
You two are just amazing! To stand so firm in another country where who knows what the consequence is... I'm still laughing. Only you two would get away with this. Have fun and stay out of trouble, eh?
Melissa