"I Love Paris in the Springtime" is probably the best-known song associated with our first destination. But I suspect that, if the composer had been here this week, the song would probably have been called: “I am Freezing My Ass Off in Paris”. Admittedly, the bone-chilling weather we've encountered since arriving is unusual for this fantastic city, and is far worse elsewhere in Europe this year. Still, we left a balmy Toronto and arrived to find Arctic temperatures here. This doesn’t seem right, does it? While we were fairly well-prepared in terms of what we packed, it has definitely cramped our touring style. We’re still cramming our days, but it’s just more difficult when you’re wondering whether your nose is going to break off in your mittens. Alright, I’m done bitching about the cold, and I feel better, even though we are facing more of the same for the rest of our week here.
We arrived in Paris with our charges (about 30 exchange students) well in hand
. We lost nary a soul along the way, and the hand-off to their French hosts proceeded without a hitch. We were now free to begin our trip in earnest. Paris, though frozen, was awash in sunlight, and it sparkled. Our first challenge involved negotiating the Paris public transit system. The map truly resembles a plate of spaghetti, with multiple lines, railroads, subways, and buses all intertwined, and written in letters so small the font sizes could be given in atoms. If you’ve been to Paris, you know what I mean. If you haven’t, try Googling the map and you’ll understand. After a few days, we’ve mastered the system, and armed with a 5-day pass, we are getting around without too much trouble. We have even become adept at the techniques needed to contend with the masses all vying for the same space on the crowded subway cars (techniques likely to be equally useful on a football field). It’s the way most Parisians travel through the city, and remarkably, it seems to well. And you’ll never know what you might see on the Metro. For example, where else in the world would you encounter a 10-piece orchestra playing classical music flawlessly in a subway station for spare change?
So, here’s a question for you. You’re in Paris, the city of love, full of icons like the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe, the Louvre, etc. Where do you go first? Well, Bonnie and David go to a cemetery. Not just any cemetery, though. This cemetery dates back to the 1700’s and contains the remains of very famous Frenchmen, renowned artists celebrities and statesmen like Modigliani, Moliere, and Chopin
. Some burial sites are insanely elaborate, others very simple. In finest tourist form, we first visit Jim Morrison’s grave. A small crowd is gathered, inasmuch as it is late in the day, freezing, and not tourist season. Normally, the place is mobbed. (In fact, we’re finding the surfeit of tourists to be a blessing, as we can readily go anywhere with no waiting.). As we reach the vicinity of Edith Piaf`s grave (very understated) in this huge cemetery, a security guard demanded that we leave immediately, as it was closing time. Bonnie, in her finest French, says: ``But we`ve come 5000 miles to see this.`` Amazingly, the guard relents and in fact shows us the grave, which is directly in front of our noses. Bonnie`s charm and teacher`s voice come to our aid once more.
Continuing the death theme, we visited the Catacombs , a dark and dingy labyrinth 60 feet underground where the bones and skulls of 6 million Parisians were neatly stacked in the 1700-1800’s because of overcrowded cemeteries and health reasons
. Bones as far as the eye can see line the tunnel for a good quarter mile. It is overpowering, and by the end, you’ve seen enough! The fresh air, though frigid, was most welcome.
It seems that the death theme has been prominent in our sightseeing, as we have also visited:
1) the prison (Conciergerie) where prisoners were kept prior to their visit to the guillotine, or as someone described it: Their heights were shortened by a foot from the top down. Marie Antoinette, once the queen of France, spent her last days on earth in this dingy place before her date with the executioner.
2) the Holocaust Memorial, a stirring beautifully-conceived edifice that is a stark tribute to the 78,000 Jewish victims wrenched from their lives, dehumanized and ultimately shipped off to the death camps. The story is told through vivid pictures, videos, and displays.
However, these sights have been more than counterbalanced by the sheer magnificence and wonder of this city. We have visited a half dozen museums designed to challenge both your capacity to absorb beauty as well as the arch support of your shoes. After awhile, you feel almost numbed by the abundance of art and architecture. It is a visual buffet, serving up unlimited portions of Renoir, Matisse, Rodin, Monet, Manet, not to mention the works of countless other equally-talented artists and sculptors.
And of course we’ve also visited the prerequisites for any Paris visit—the tower, the arch, the cathedrals, the bridges. Picture simply cannot do these sights justice. Suffice it to say that they are iconic for good reason. And no trip would be complete without the compulsory pictures of Bonnie and David standing in the foreground beaming.
Paris is a continual stream of eye candy. Just wandering the streets, intentionally getting lost, taking buses through the many colourful neighbourhoods, past monuments, fountains, river vistas, historic sites, parks, broad boulevards, etc etc., we encountered surprises large and small. The streets are full of Parisians going about the business of living, undaunted by the cold. The people-watching is unparalleled, and is proving to be one of our favourite activities.
Not having been here since 1989, we are continually being reminded why Paris is one of our favourite cities. So while we suffer the harsh winds and all-pervasive cold, we are finding ourselves falling in love with Paris again, even in February, even in a freeze.
In a few days, we move from the freezer to the oven, as we fly to Bangkok, with its tropical heat (in the 90s). We will be like caterpillars, shedding our many layers, to flit around Southeast Asia.
Frozen in France
Tuesday, February 14, 2012
Paris, Île-de-France, France
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Vicki novsk
2012-02-14
You must be freezing in that leather jacket Bonnie. Glad your going to hit th 90's instead of freezing your butts off.
Your favorite cousins
2012-02-14
Well, you've done it again! I am thoroughly loving your vivid descriptions of Paris and feel as if I am standing right beside you. I am thrilled that you and Bonnie are off on another one of your Lilien journeys.....I can't wait to read the next installment of where your travels have taken you! Most importantly, I wish you safe travels andmany beautiful sights to write about.....
Love you both!
Rita
2012-02-14
Wow.....I am green with envy of your young style!.Paris...how romantic for valentines day! We go home early tomorrow...Jim's sister died today....then we r off to panama.....don't forget our date after you get back....amusez-vous bien
Valerie
2012-02-14
freezing - big deal - you're in France!! Paris, no less. Even in the cold, I'm sure the city is still beautiful!!
Everything here in Toronto is ok, we had snow for a couple of days, now it's melting again, oh well, winter will be over by the time you two return.
Take care, and have a wonderful time - stay healthy!!
V
melissagquest
2012-02-14
Hey, kids, too bad about Paris but at least you are not shoveling in Italy! Can't wait to hear about Thailand!
Hope Springman
2012-02-14
Does it get any more romantic than Paris on Valentine's Day? And I don't mean Paris, ON! Your latest adventure is off to a fantastic start and it's wonderful to read your blog. Stay well and warm and happy travels! Love, Hope
cissie.retired
2012-02-14
Hey Bonnie and David,
Lovely to hear from you even though you are freezing. Today we are experiencing a snowy/rainy day. The weather just can't decide what to do!
I've been at Francine's all morning because the boys are sick yet again with earaches, colds, teething etc. It was fun and I got my dose of hugs and kisses.
I look forward to your Bangkok jaunts...I was there in 1983, so I'm sure there are huge changes.
I just saw some of the up-for-Oscar movies and so far they are worthy.
I look forward to reading your next blog...be well, warm and safe.
Cecile