CHIANG MAI, NORTHERN THAILAND
After the intensity of Bangkok and our low-key visit to the beaches in Phuket, travel to Chiang Mai represented a virtual return to sanity
. It is a medium-sized city located one hour north of Bangkok by plane. But even that transit proved to be arduous, as a plane change required us to spend 4 hours at the airport in the middle of the night. While this appeared to be a non-issue for the Gen X backpackers around us, we're too old for this! Options for sleep included hard metal bench seats, or the harder concrete floor. Luckily, we found an area marked: 'For Monks Only’, which had semi-soft seats, and since there was nary a monk to be seen at 1 am, we hunkered down. I had visions of being hauled away by beefy security people and getting locked up in some sort of prison for religion offenders, but the need for sleep predominated, and luckily, we were not accosted before catching our 6am flight.
We were immediately struck by the differences between Chiang Mai and the previous two Thai cities we had visited thus far. Compared to Bangkok, traffic here actually moves! While the streets are still full of vehicles of all sorts, you just don’t see the jams
. The city is comprised of a central core, which is the original walled city (little of the wall remains) surrounded by a moat. It is quite scenic and we seem to be crossing this moat several times daily as we shuffle from one sight to another. Beyond this compact old city, the city sprawl begins. Tourism is big here, as CM is full of interesting sights and a launching point for a wide range of unique experiences. Buddhist temples are must-sees, but the most notable can all be easily seen in a day. Each has its own unique history and architectural features, and we were struck by the openness and tolerance of those there to maintain the temples (Wats) for visitors, worshipers and tourists alike. A main tenet of Buddhist is respectful treatment of guests, and hence, you are welcomed everywhere you go. Photo-taking is virtually unrestricted, as are participation in activities and interaction with the multitudes of monks. We spoke to several, including a sit-down in which we were encouraged to ask any questions. We spoke to a 23-year old, who told us about what becoming a monk had meant to his family (pride) and to himself (dedication and study). He, in turn, questioned us about our life in Canada. The program is called Monk Chat, and it added so much to our visit. We never thought we would have a chance to do that.
Besides the many temples to see, Chiang Mai is known for its multitude of street markets. For instance, there is a huge night market near our hotel that goes for blocks and blocks
. We wound up there every night, as it also has some of the best eating places (restaurants and take away street food--- all delicious and remarkably cheap). We are now hooked on mango smoothies. We are also trying fruits unknown to us in North America. We see something unusual, buy it and try it, not knowing what taste and consistency will be like. We’ve yet to try snakehead fruit or durian, but what fun this is! Besides the food, these markets have anything and everything, beautiful handicrafts and chachkas galore. For Bonnie, this has been a yin and yang experience, as she is absolutely loving the shopping (with me in tow), but tempered by the reality of having to carry her purchases for the next month. She really has exercised great restraint, though it’s killing her.
We have also become experts at the transportation game of negotiating price and hopping on and off tuk-tuks and songthiews (a mini-truck which carries 6-10 people sitting on benches. There are tons of these and they serve as a pseudo-bus/taxi system—there are no public buses here). Drivers can range from Captain Kangaroo to Captain Bligh in their demeanour. It’s all really a lot of fun, almost Disneyesque, and you never quite know where you are, or with whom you’ll be sharing a trip. Yesterday, for instance, returning from a spectacular mountaintop temple, we shared a songthiew with 5 young Koreans. We conversed in broken English, laughing and joking
. By the end of this 20-minute ride, we were all friends. Email addresses were exchanged,and we all moved on. Such is travel here in SE Asia.
And now, to discuss the two main highlights of our trip to Chiang Mai. The first spun our heads around in the fun and excitement of it, and the second will have an equal effect on our tummies. We signed up for a one-day tour which involved a demonstration of elephant training, an hour spent riding an elephant, bamboo-rafting, and ox-carting. If this sounds exhausting, believe me, it was. But how exhilarating and memorable! The bamboo-rafting was pleasurable as we drifted downstream through the morning mists, with the assistance of two boatmen navigating using long poles . We shared our raft with a friendly young couple from Hong Kong. It was idyllic, and a throwback to previous times, when this was the main mode of river transport. We then visited a large elephant camp where we learned quite a bit about these magnificent beasts. We were then shown various training exercises, treated to a painting demonstration by 2 elephants, and the results of their brushstrokes are attached. Quite impressive, really. We then climbed aboard Poocket, a 35 year old (they live as long as people do) Asian male, with his handler, who took us on a 1-hour trail ride, traversing the river, deftly climbing up and down steep embankments, and through lush forested areas. Atop the elephant, we were bounced around pretty well, but after a while, adjusted to the rhythmic pace
. The wonderment never stopped the entire time, however. It was definitely something we won’t soon forget.
As noted in a previous entry, lovers of Thai food can indulge their every whim here. Most everywhere you go, in restaurants or from street vendors, you find the freshest ingredients and exquisite spicing in even the simplest dishes. Therefore, it is no surprise that so many tourists are anxious to learn Thai cooking for themselves. CM is a virtual hotbed of cooking schools, and my darling wife decided that she would attend one. She chose a TripAdvisor-recommended school, where she went to the local market, learned of the needed ingredients for the 4 dishes she would be preparing. Four hours later, she emerged with these dishes, and recipes in hand, and we enjoyed her excellent lunch of chicken in coconut milk soup , a spicy red curry on rice, and Pad Thai, one of our favourite noodle dishes. I am not exaggerating when I say it was all delicious. I’m now looking forward to having homemade Thai food regularly
. She has already promised to show me what she learned so that I can do the cooking, Isn’t that nice of her?
Chiang Rai
We are now travelling through the northernmost province, Chiang Rai, near the borders of Laos and Myanmar. Known for its scenic beauty, we are using this as a ‘pit stop on this leg of the amazing race’, a place to wind down for a few days before heading onward to Vietnam. We visited a modern and dramatic museum called The Hall of Opium, which covers the history of opium use. Opium was once produced and traded in the Burma (Myamar)-Laos-Thailand area, known as the Golden Triangle. This was decades ago, being harshly quashed by the governments involved since that time.
Of course, we also visited more Wats (Buddhist temples), one very old one, and one that is relatively recent. The former, virtually in ruins and dating back almost 600 years, is up on a steep hill and not a popular tourist attraction, In contrast, the latter, is all-white and elaborately detailed surrounded by tranquil grounds
. Simply dazzling, and a must-see. As you enter the grounds, however, there are various horrific depictions of hell (eg severed ugly heads hanging from trees), but as you enter the Wat itself, heaven is seen in murals which range from the ridiculous to the sublime. For instance, one mural incorporates Superman, Spiderman, and Michael Jackson into its spiritually-uplifting theme. Unfortunately, pictures weren’t allowed so I can’t include one in this blog!
We are ending our time in Thailand with yet one more experience of a lifetime. The mountainous areas outside of Chiang Rai are populated by native peoples, known as hill tribes, living in small clusters. We have managed to find one, the Akha tribe, that accommodates visitors, so of course this was something we had to do. We were driven up a narrow mountain road that would equal the thrills and danger of any roller coaster, being jostled by the pitted road, at times holding on for dear life. Bonnie also had the task of protecting the dozens of eggs being brought up from the city, which were on the seat beside her. She took her job seriously, and like the students we chaperoned earlier, all the eggs survived intact. Our accommodations proved to be a series of surprises, most of them good. First off, we are in a cabin, which though highly rustic, is equipped with all the basics like electricity and running water. The view from the patio of our cabin is spectacular. Being high on the mountain, we overlook lush forested valleys.The air is intensely fresh, with the faint smell of a distant fire. Bonnie’s reaction: I LOVE IT!!!, an emotion I seconded, Two days here have been a wonderful break. We’ve already had full-body Akha massages ($5 for an hour of bliss!), and yesterday, we trekked 5 kms to a nearby hot spring for a soak and to a waterfall nearby. I know, it’s a hard life, but somebody has to do it. Seriously, we feel like we’re in a movie, and feel just so fortunate for all these experiences. Our fellow guests here all seem to be seasoned travellers, all with interesting backgrounds, life experiences, life goals, and real spirit.
As for much of this trip we do seem to be the oldest in the crowd. We’ve gotten used to being called Mamma and Pappa (sometimes preceded with the word ‘ big’) by some of the Thais, but it is not malicious, but rather, almost respectfully. Our age also earns us somewhat more pampering where we go.
After our time with the Akha, we head to Hanoi, where we will take a north-to- south private tour which we’ve just arranged with a tour company here. The company came highly-recommended by fellow travellers we met in Thailand. The cost is so reasonable and Vietnam is not an easy country to travel in, not having the tourist infrastructure of a country like Thailand. Having done a similar private tour when we were in Egypt, we learned that this is a preferable way to see a country such as this, especially for we more "mature” travellers.
So, our trip is about to enter a new phase, and we are really looking forward to seeing many of the places that were only names associated with the war back in the 70s. All reports are that it is an amazing country, and if it as fantastic as Thailand has been, it will be another trip highlight.
As always, thanks for reading our blog, and for your comments. We haven’t been responding to them, but we so look forward to hearing from you.
PS. My shingles problem cleared up several weeks ago, and now you can barely see the remnants of the rash on my wrist. Wonders of modern medicine.
Thailand- Our Love Affair Continues
Saturday, March 03, 2012
Chiang Rai, Thailand
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2025-02-12
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joseph
2012-03-02
to have such drive and energy to pursue these amazing adventures is commendable! Looking forward to sharing more of your discoveries!
Amy
2012-03-02
I love this entry! And the photo of you guys on an elephant really made my day!! I'm so happy that you're having so many wonderful experiences and that you're loving your time in Asia! It really is a phenomenal place. And, it sounds like your really savouring it. Fantastic!!
cissie.retired
2012-03-02
Hi guys!
I'm just as thrilled for you as Amy is in her comments. Thailand is a beautiful country and I'm so glad you are seeing and traveling to places not often experienced by all tourists. I recall Bangkok with fondness, and our river trip to more remote areas as a real learning experience. A memorable experience, for sure! It is the best teacher, and it is sad that more people cannot use this mode to learn. I think the world would be a more peaceful place.
Here our weather has not changed...mild, rainy, some snow above the 401 border (Whew for me) and soon the March Break will pour students all around the town.
Be safe, be well have fun and I anticipate another thrilling episode of "Bonnie and David in Asia" ASAP.
Bon Chance,
Cecile
The Sunnies
2012-03-03
Well, I thought I had seen and read it all but your latest blog entry really managed to blow me away! The experiences you are having, the sights you are taking in - all are incredible! You have taken some wonderful photos of your past adventures, but surely my very favorite is the one of you and Bonnie atop an elephant!!!! You certainly have put new meaning into the words exciting, awesome, and incredible! May you continue to enjoy the remaining places you visit.....I know they will provide you with MANY lifelong stories and memories! I continue to marvel at you both for the choices you have made and for your wise decisions to travel while you are still able to enjoy! Who knows? Perhaps your cousins will one day join you on one of these wonderful excursions!
Glad you no longer have shingles....how about a roof? Sorry.....I really am glad you are feeling 100% up to your travels!
May you continue to enjoy each and every moment of the wonders you encounter....reading them is almost like being there with you!
Love and miss you!
Your favorite Dresher cousins :-)