Good Morning Vietnam!

Saturday, March 10, 2012
Hanoi, Vietnam
Wow! It's great being a millionaire. When you come to Vietnam, you get to know that feeling the first time you go to change your dollars into Vietnamese dong, Each US dollar is worth 20,100 dong, and just $50 makes you a millionaire, So, basically, after a trip to the ATM here, we had 10 Million smackers. Psychologically, we really did feel rich.

We have been in Vietnam for a week now, and are loving it . It's radically different from Thailand in so many ways. This perception started from the moment we flew into Hanoi. For one, the travel guidebooks will tell you that the tourism infrastructure is not as developed as in other countries (like Thailand), and this was evident to us in the 45 minute wait at the luggage carousel, the brutally slow process of obtaining visitor visas, and then going through passport control. Luckily, we will be avoiding some of the worse hassles since we’ve arranged an itinerary with the help of Vietnam Today, a travel agency recommended to us by someone we met in our travels. Thus far, we’ve been very pleased with their ability to make our travel arrangements, provide guides and drivers, and optimize our time here. In Thailand, this was easy to do ourselves. Here, not so easy.

If translated, the name Hanoi must mean organized bedlam, because that is certainly the impression we had of this bustling city. There is a perpetual haze, and we hit a patch of light rain, which further contributed to the bleakness . The streets, many litter-filled, are chock-a-block with vendors, residents, food peddlars selling fruit out of baskets at the ends of a shouldered pole, car parts, a zillion restaurants, and all manner of shopping venue. However, it also dishes out the most in-your-face traffic you can imagine. In Hanoi, the motorbike is king, pedestrians a mere obstacle to dodge. We crossed the street one step at a time across one or more lanes. Motorcyclists merely drive around you, and you have to be on your toes not to be roadkill here. But the news is far from bad. There are many stunning buildings here, either contemporary, or dating back to the days when the French ruled.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                There There are lots of embassies, government /party buildings abound, ultramodern highrises, and much new construction which portents a bright economic future. Our hotel was in a part of the city popular with locals and tourists because the narrow streets offer anything you can guess. It’s gritty, it’s congested, but it’s real . Strolling through the neighbourhood and its night market was a fun eye-opening experience, and the people-watching was world-class.

We spent 2 solid days touring most of the major sites in Hanoi, but only two really stood out for us. The first was the impressive mausoleum housing the body of Ho Chi Minh (Uncle Ho), the most revered man in this country. We, together with hundreds of others, patiently stood in a long tightly-controlled line-up for the opportunity to file past his preserved body. For a man who died in 1969 at age 79, the guy looks marvellous, absolutely marvellous. Seriously, don’t know how they do it, but I should look so good. We also got to see his living and working quarters, all immaculately preserved.

Ever hear of Maison Centrale? Doesn’t this quaint-sounding name remind you of some little French bistro, perhaps in Montreal or Paris? Well, you’ve probably have heard of it by its nickname—the Hanoi Hilton . This is the prison where the French once jailed and tortured the ciizenry, including many political opponents. An original guillotine still stands there, a chilling sight indeed. During the US/Vietnam war years, the prison housed downed US pilots, including John McCain. Displays contain many of the actual items and pictures of those days. You are struck by the smiles of the captured, knowing that these likely were mandatory. The story is also told from the Vietnamese point of view which is less than objective, leaving us cold.

After just 2 days in Hanoi, we felt ready to move on, and we took a fairly rudimentary overnight train to Sapa, an alpine-like town in the far northern mountains of Vietnam just 2 kilometers from the Chinese border which we saw across the river. Sapa is a lovely town in an area many tribal groups call home. Wearing colourful clothing, they are seen on the streets and in the markets, selling their wares (lots of embroidered stuff). We found many to be quite aggressive in their sales efforts, hounding you to "buy from me now" . Our guide took us on a long trek through the mountains, ending in a beautiful waterfall. The day was glorious and sunny, and we were up to the challenge. The views were breathtaking. By the end, however, we were dragging our asses on the ground, as Xum, our young Vietnamese guide, bounded along. But we soon saw this problem disappear, as we opted for an herbal mineral bath, a treatment unique to this area. For $15 each, we were taken to a room which had two barrels in it, one for each of us. Naked, we soaked in these minerals for about ½ hour. After marinading in this fragrant concoction, we each received 1 hour full-body massage, which we later agreed were the best we have ever had. We ended the day with a Vietnamese hotpot, kind of like a fondue in which you do the cooking of meat and veggies over a stylized hotplate and a wok containing broth. Delicious and fun, too. Another arduous overnight train, and we were back in Hanoi, albeit only temporarily.

Cruising Halong Bay

After another overnight train, we travelled 3 more hours to Halong Bay for a 2-day cruise in the Calypso, a classic Chinese junk, along with about 20 other passengers. Halong Bay has been rated as one of the 7 top natural wonders of the world, for good reason. It is filled with 2000 islands that are dramatic outgrowths of limestone which punctuate the landscape as far as the eye can see. This is further enhanced by a perpetual mist which bathes them in mystery and gives the sea a milky look. The whole scene was unworldly as we silently sailed in this magical setting. The passengers on the ship were quite convivial, and it was an opportunity to socialize with people from around the globe. Over lavish meals, we traded war stories about past travels. The Viet tradition involves serving a large number and variety of shared dishes, and this was great. If something didn’t appeal, the next dish would be out in a few minutes. Suffice it to say that no one walked away hungry. Our time was filled with optional activities ranging from cave exploring (this was fantastic) to squid fishing, kayaking, beach, cooking lessons, etc. As you probably know, we are avid cruisers, but this one was completely different from any other we’d experienced, and it was so enjoyable. Of course, I took tons of pix, and one is attached.

Our next stop will be Danang, where we’ll spend some time in central VN. We’ll be spending 3 days in HoiAn, where we'll just be relaxing and recharging the batteries. HoiAn is a town that so many have told us was among their favourite spots in the country. Besides the charm of the town, HoiAn has a ridiculously large number of tailors who will custom-make clothes in 24 hours, and we plan to test that claim.

Thus far, and based on our very limited perspective, we’ve found Vietnam to be vibrant, complex, and oh-so interesting. Life is difficult for many, and the poverty is inescapable. However, we’ve also been left with the impression that the people are bright, resourceful and hard-working. They seem driven towards pursuing a good life and consumerism. For us, Vietnam has also provided the benefit of being economical, a key consideration if you’re going to take a long trip like this. As in past trips, I've been working on picking up some of the more useful conversational Vietnamese, a really difficult language, and the reactions have been classic. They just don't expect to hear Vietnamese from foreigners.

Our next blog will likely come from Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) in southern Vietnam,



Comments

Hope Springman
2012-03-11

Dear Bonnie and David,
This was one of your best blogs ever, and what a photo of Bonnie in a pot. She surely marinated away any blemishes! Enjoy the rest of your amazing trip - can't wait to see you in a few weeks! Love, Hope

Rita
2012-03-11

Florida is so boring when reading your exotic blog. We love to live vicariously through yr adventures. Awaiting next entry to add a sparkle to our day.. Rita and Jim

The Sunnies
2012-03-11

Your vivid descriptions leave little to the imagination! You are both certainly being immersed in the rich cultures each area you visit has to offer! I find it incredibly fascinating that your travels take you to places most tourists may never see....your added photos are wonderful and yes, I LOVE the one of Bonnie soaking in the pot! Where else could/would you visit to get a photo op such as this one?

It certainly sounds as if you are loving every step of your journey, learning much about the places you visit, and even making friends along the way!
Your blogs are so wonderful to read.....truly makes me feel as if I am standing right next to you (if only that was the case!). Continue to have safe travels....can't wait for your return!

Love and hugs,
The Sunnies

Allan Sheps
2012-03-12

envy Envy ENVY
what else can I say?
E!N!V!Y!

and glad that you guys are having a great time.

Amy
2012-03-12

New Vietnamese specialty. Bonnie soup! They only told you it was for relaxation...

Seriously, I love that pic, and love your vivid descriptions of where you've been. Wonderful!

cissie.retired
2012-03-12

Hi Bonnie and David,

What a wonderful write up about your visit in Vietnam and especially Hanoi! You really get to know the countries you visit very well. Bonnie, you look so comfortable in the pot!! It's such a perfect memory to keep. hope to read another blog soon and do keep safe and well.

Cecile

Wendy
2012-03-12

We're so happy that you're having a wonderful time. Boy, when you travel, you do travel!!! Soaking in the barrel and having a massage must have been heaven, Aunt Bonnie, you do look just too cute!., I'm so looking forward to seeing you, UD, Amy and Tammy, Enjoy the rest of you vacation,
Love ya's
Wendy

2025-02-12

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