Cappadocia, Turkey
Serendipity. What a great word, and it completely describes much of our adventure. Thus, what was to be a 3-hour layover in Istanbul evolved into an impromptu 9 days in Turkey. Previous trips have involved a day or two in Istanbul, but this time, we had a chunk of time to really explore and enjoy it. And that's exactly what we did. Of course, we (re)visited most of the major tourist sites. I won’t bore you with descriptions and details-- you can get that from the web if you want. For us, the street life of Istanbul was the star of the show, and each day, we would peel away another layer of this onion. Walking for hours at a time, we visited the old city, far-flung neighbourhoods, frenetic city markets, lush gardens, crazy busy streets and peaceful historic mosques. We even found a suburban shopping centre that would put Yorkdale Mall to shame—six floors of shops, a challenge even Bonnie wasn’t up for.
For us, the fun was in just taking it all in. The mix of cultures and variety of dress, the unique displays in the shop windows, the narrow cobblestone streets, mysterious alleyways and hidden alcoves, unique architecture, centuries- old landmarks, etc. were all so interesting. We never knew what to expect next. As for the residents, we found the Turks we met to be very friendly and helpful (help was a continual requirement when we were lost or looking for something or when confounded by the Turkish language signs). We immersed ourselves completely, and were mesmerized.
As I’ve done throughout this trip, I learned a few basics of conversational Turkish, and found that my efforts usually elicited a smile or comment of appreciation. What’s nice about Turkish is that it uses most of the same letters as English; so sign reading was possible. Can’t say that about SE Asia!
We always felt perfectly safe wherever we walked. However we were obviously tourists, and this made us prime picking for those wishing to relieve us of our money. People were constantly trying to sell us things or looking for handouts. Tea and coffee drinking is an obsession here, and merchant offers of apple tea are non-stop. It is partially to welcome you, and partially to entice you to buy something from them. They would go to great lengths to make a sale. We would be approached, cajoled, pleaded with, complemented, humoured or whatever it took to get us to buy something. Be it shopkeepers or just random guys selling stuff on the streets (oodles of them), there is a barrage of overtures. We got quite good at just smiling and saying "no thank you". We learned of a Turkish phrase which seemed to have a magical effect in dissuading an aggressive street sale. Just by saying “there is no need” in Turkish, it immediately stopped the sales effort. It was apparent that they would be confounded by hearing these Turkish words from a tourist. Whatever the reason, it worked like a charm. When it was something we were interested in, Bonnie would drive a hard bargain, though we were often left with the feeling that we had somehow gotten the short end of the stick.
We also took every opportunity to try Turkish food, which we generally found to be beautifully presented, nicely spiced, and delicious. In shops, markets, and restaurants, food display is so artistic. Products are neatly stacked in pyramids or neatly lined up to maximize appeal. Restaurant meals were almost always presented with flourish and frill. Bread and pastries are clearly another obsession here, and we seldom avoided the opportunity to partake. Always fresh, always tasty, sweet and often crunchy nuts are commonly found in the sweets. Pistachio and pumpkin seed lovers would be in heaven here. (In Turkey, they keep the pumpkin seeds and throw away the pumpkins!)
Given the time we had, we had the opportunity to visit the Cappadocia region in central Turkey. Travel books almost always recommend it, so that`s what we did.
We arranged a 3-day tour which would take us to this magical region. It started with an overnight bus trip that was an adventure in itself. The Turkish bus system is well-run and inexpensive. Buses are clean, comfortable, and modern, even offering in-seat entertainment systems. However, Turkish truck stops at 4:30 am are another experience entirely. Reminiscent of certain Twilight Zone episodes, like zombies, passengers filed out of the bus in search of water, bathrooms, a smoke, or whatever. There were all these nefarious- looking men hanging around, smoking, drinking Turkish coffee, and eyeing the tourists. Goods of all sorts were available for purchase. Guys were selling things off carts. I called them 'yeller fellers’ cause they would be continuous yelling something that was probably what they were selling, but mostly sounded like a moaning cry for help.
Bus ride aside, we were totally unprepared for what awaited us in Cappadocia. The region is comprised of mountain ranges and valleys remaining from ancient volcanic activity. For miles around, you see huge naturally-formed spires that look like 2-3 story high pointed cones. Caves are another common feature of the area. Most amazing of all is the fact that this region has been occupied for thousands of years, with homes and churches built into these spires and caves. They look like you might find hobbits living there.
We stayed in Goreme, a lovely town surrounded by these occupied spires (known as fairy chimneys). Best of all, we stayed in a cave hotel, in which each room was chiselled out of a cave. But, contrary to what you might imagine, these caves were luxurious, nicely furnished with all the comforts of home, including large screen TV, WIFI, mini-fridge and Jacuzzi. It was usually chilly, though, especially at night. Staying in such a unique kind of place was so much fun, and we felt like upscale Flintstones. While in Cappadocia, we took two days of organized minibus tours. Or instance, one day, we visited an underground city that dated back to the BC era. Elaborate rooms, tunnels, and stairways were built for storage and protection, including underground water wells and air channels, even areas for horses and farm animals kept underground. While we thought that the Cu Chi tunnels in Vietnam were impressive, they pale by comparison to this twelve-level underground city, one of dozens of underground cities in the area.
Perhaps most amazing of all was the hot air balloon ride we took at 5:30 one morning. As the sun came up, we were on one of dozens of balloons that were aflight all around the area. Ballooning is big business here. We gently rose high into the sky, floating over the awesome landscape, occasional drifting precariously close to the mountains and fairy chimneys. Safety was never a concern, however, as we were belted into the basket and given a short briefing on landing, the riskiest part of the flight. Because you drift with the prevailing winds, they never know where the landing will be. After almost an hour and a gentle landing, our group celebrated with champagne. What a thrilling experience this was- one we`ll never forget.
With a few last days in Paris, our trip will quickly be coming to an end. As usual, we have the mixed feelings of looking forward to being back home, but also missing the excitement of the road and the unknown.
Turkish Delights
Thursday, March 29, 2012
Cappadocia, Turkey
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2025-02-15
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joseph
2012-04-02
david and bonnie, thank you so much for making us part of your experiences.
i feel as if i have participated in each and every one of your adventures.
welcome home.
rita
2012-04-02
a beautiful description of Istanbul and Cappadocia. It is one of our favourite memories also, especially the balloon ride. Glad you are doing this blogging...great descriptions evoke wonderful memories for us also. Eager to see you home again....hugs, Rita
cissie.retired
2012-04-02
What a fantastic experience in Turkey! So delightful to read about the fairy chimneys...I've seen photos, but you are really there, and they really exist! Toronto will seem so dull and boring after this travel time...but we're all thrilled you are returning safe and sound...new languages, new experiences and new memories.
Enjoy, as I know you will..
Cecile