Sanur, Bali, Indonesia
After the excitement and energy of Singapore, it was again time to slow the pace of our trip, so the island of Bali, in Indonesia, was exactly what the doctor ordered. As much as we'd heard about it, we were quite unprepared for the wonders we were about to experience.
After a half hour on the net, we were booked with flight and hotel in our first stop, Kuta, a lively beach resort. Arranging this was not as onerous a task as it sounds, as bookings are easily made, with multiple discount airlines and hotel booking engines from which to choose. Our hotel was new, very modern, airy, with a rooftop infinity pool to die for, all for a shockingly low price. In Bali, low hotel prices are the norm, and most include breakfast, further improving the value. Kuta, itself, is a hive of activity as fun-seekers roam the gorgeous beaches and lively streets, with tons of shops, restos and bars vying for their rupiah, dollars, rubles, and euros.
After arriving, we couldn't wait to hit the beach, and soon afterward, we were relaxing on chaises, under umbrellas needed to protect from the brutal sun. The sea water is bathtub warm, and fairly clear, with one disturbing exception--litter. There's quite a bit of discarded water bottles, paper, cigarette butts, etc. everywhere, and so even paradise has some warts. The lack of trashcans on the beach and on the streets undoubtedly contribute to it. We spent a few very restful days here and then moved to yet another beach town named Sanur, which has a more laidback vibe. There, we stayed at the Swastika Bungalows, which is the polar opposite of the impression you might get from the name. As you probably know, the swastika is an ancient Buddhist symbol meaning good fortune, and so it was for us. Lushly landscaped, with waterfalls and fountains throughout, we felt we had been transported to Eden. We had a lovely stay, getting into the Balinese culture, and having a chance to talk with those who live here, including a sizable expat community drawn by the beauty and ambience of Bali, not to mention the buying power. Those born here have a lovely nature, and are so hospitable and happy to share their island with one and all.
While most of Indonesia is Moslem, Hindu predominates on Bali, and it is practised visibly. For instance, in any building, store, home or public space (even on the beach) we saw shrines of all shapes and sizes with offerings often placed in small straw baskets. These might contain flowers, food, incense, and money, and they are refreshed 3 times daily. Every home has a place of worship, and there are multiple festivals throughout the year. In the 2 weeks we spent in Bali, there were two festivals--one celebrating the pursuit of knowledge and the other, inner strength. People gather with family and friends in prayer followed by a meal. Foreigners are welcomed with open arms. People are very respectful of their gods, their ancestry, and their world. Carved images adorned with cloth and flowers are ubiquitous.
Balinese architecture is unique and we were often awestruck by its beauty, which ranged from highly ornate to elegant simplicity, open and airy to claustrophobic, modern to ancient, well-maintained to derelict. Everywhere, you encounter dense vegetation, tropical forests, beautiful landscaping, incredibly vivid colours found in gardens, on trees, on the streets, or adorning buildings. The air is filled with aromatic incense, spice, or floral smells, which definitely grow on you. There are three other odours you can't escape-- the smell of gas fumes from the motorbikes and tourist vans which comprise the main traffic here, the delicious smells of food cooking, and the occasional sewage smells, since sidewalks are typically built over wastewater trenches. Bali is a buffet for the senses.
We visited a few of Bali's outstanding Hindu temples, one of which was located at the seashore (1 of 7 such seaside temples), the scene of crashing waves, carved out caves, and tons of fellow tourists. We were blessed by the holy people there in a ceremony which includes a prayer, a splash of holy water, and the placing of a few rice grains on our forehead for good fortune. We believe that it worked. We also visited an inland temple which offers bathing in healing waters for one and all. There, we underwent another ritual with a guide who showed us how to correctly undertake the healing process. Yet another spiritually uplifting experience for us, not to mention the pragmatic benefit of allowing us to cool down from the blistering heat of the day. We attended a traditional Balinese dance performance (one of several we witnessed during our stay in Bali), and drank Lewok coffee, the world's most expensive coffee because the coffee beans are eaten by a minx-like animal, pooped out, cleaned, and then crushed for coffee (it was really tasty, too!). One trip highlight was in a fishing village called Jimbaran, where we stayed for 2 nights. We had dinner at a table right on the beach, the thing to do while here. It was accompanied by a lovely sunset, followed by electrically-charged flashes in the sky. It was magical.
Next, we venture to central and northern Bali
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BALI, ALMOST HEAVEN ON EARTH
Friday, March 07, 2014
Sanur, Bali, Indonesia
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Comments
2025-03-20
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Melissa Gold
2014-03-17
I have to admit: you lost me at poop coffee. I'll take your word for it, LOL. Sounds like paradise on earth! Wishing you safe travels!
rozRoz
2014-03-17
David and Bonnie! So happy to read your life-like descriptions and remember my 4 wonderful trips to Bali! You're going to LOVE the artistic peacefulness in Ubud! If you have the energy, you must go on a guideded climb of Mt Batur, a dormant volcano hike that starts at 2-3 am with a head lamp and the moon, your sunrise breakfast is cooked in the volcanic stream and it ends with a trip down the lava tubes. I've been to the same cities you mentioned; learned to surf among the garbage in Kuta, prayed for the safety and security of my loved ones in Sanur, ate fresh seafood on the Jimbaran beach under the stars and even paraglided along the SAFE and stunning coast of Nusa Dua (let me know if you want a hookup ;-) mo so please let me give you some advice to get away from the traffic and sewage smells: do not leave Indonesia without going to Lombok - the big island just east of Bali! Far less touristy, and although majority Muslim, the natural wonders are just as majestic. Get there on a fast boat from Padangbai, another nice coastal town in Bali. My absolute favourite were the waterfalls near Mataram and driving along the coastal highways on a scooter with monkeys running beside us!!! Then go to the Gilli islands, 3 of them located near the north west corner of Lombok. Trawangan, Air and Meno, in order of decreasing size with Gilli T taking less than 2 hours to slowly walk around the entire island and up to the very top. No cars, no dogs, no police (!) But there is a very loud mosque so make sure your hotel isn't right beside it if you don't like 5 am wake up calls! That's about it. Love and miss you both xoxo
Hope
2014-03-18
Another incredible adventure for your readers! Everything you describe sounds magical and of course unforgettable! What beautiful people you are encountering - so gentle and yet so strong, proud and caring! I'll think of you next time I have a cup of coffee. Safe travels on your next jaunt. Love, Hope
Shirley and Lorne
2014-03-19
Love the pictures and the updates !
cissie.retired
2014-03-19
Hi David and Bonnie,
Magical indeed! Your description of the places already visited in Bali were luxurious in text, and wonderful to read. I'm so glad you are having such a grand time. New places are just what you wanted and needed, and Bali offers you some excellent memories.
Looking forward to northern Bali and hoping it is just as magical.
Cecile
Vicki Novak
2014-03-22
Sounds like a wonderful trip. Love those photos of you guys.