Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India
Jaisalmer is a good 14 hours by car from Jaipur, which I covered in our last blog entry. Fortunately, there is a smaller, but no less notable city about halfway between them called Bikaner. What sets this city apart is its holy place, Karni Mata, known as the rat temple.
Picture this
. A smallish building in which thousands of rats live. They roam freely, are everywhere, even underfoot. To top it all off, you wander this temple BARE-FOOTED. Adherents of the sect worship these rats, care for them, feed them, and they consider it to be a blessing to eat the food and milk which the rats have traipsed through and also eaten. This is gross taken to a new level, but it's treated very seriously and reverentially by believers. We even saw a rare albino rat, considered to be very lucky. Were we lucky? You tell us.
Also notable was our amazing hotel in Bikaner, a former palace on a serene lake. It was grand, beautifully decorated, with lush gardens and paths. Our suite was luxurious and welcoming. We were treated as if we were visiting royalty. We were met with a garland of flowers and refreshments. They couldn't do enough for us. This was no Comfort Inn.
The road to Bikaner left lots to be desired. Besides being uneven and pockmarked in spots, our driver expertly manoevered around cows and goats meandering along and across the highway, sometimes alone, sometimes in groups
. To add further to the excitement, we drove completely unlit roads at night. Trucks often had no rear lights, passing was aggressive, and we were flying along. When we finally reached our hotel, we were relieved to have made it alive. Mahavir, who I call our driving guru, took it all in stride. We, however, were ready to flake out with a quick swim, a snack, and a good snooze.
Jaisalmer is located in the desert, and is a scenic wonder. It's dominated by a mountaintop fortress which, from a distance, looks like a sandcastle but actually contains a spectacular palace built by maharajahs centuries ago. It is the only fort in India which still has a thriving community within, mostly geared to tourism. The streets are medieval in look, like a scene out of The Arabian Nights. Terracotta coloured buildings line its narrow streets and alleys. Hotels and gift shops galore. We spent a few hours touring in searing heat.
Getting to the top was an experience in itself
. We rode a tuktuk (a motorized rickshaw) wildly through throngs of Indian tourists, with the driver screaming "coming through" or some such Hindi phrase. The crowds parted and people were checking us out as if to say: "who are these damned so-and-sos." I felt like Indian-a Jones.
The residences of the fortress were beautiful in design, worthy of a maharajah whose money made such extravagance possible. Because Jaisalmer was on the Silk Road, caravans of merchants came through and paid 'tolls' for the right to do so. Merchants located here also thrived. We toured the home, called a haveli, of one of these merchants, now a museum, and it too reflected the finest of the finest of furniture and decor, imported from around the world. Sounds a little voyeuristic, doesn't it? But, admit it, wouldn't you like to tour Bill Gates' house if you could?
The highlight of our day came later. We started out with a ride in a camel cart. It was fun as we rode the desert floor looking for wildlife. This was just the beginning, however. After an hour, we visited a desert encampment where we each mounted a camel for an hour-long safari through the sand dunes. It was terrifying to start. Sitting so high off the ground is scary and you have to hold on tight, especially when the camel stands up or sits down. As we glided amongst the dunes, the sun was setting, and the sky was ablaze with a red glow. It was awesome, and we were loving it. We bonded with our trusty camels, Laloo and Babaloo, and invited them to Toronto.
These past few days have been such a crazy adventure, but so thoroughly enjoyable, like all our days thus far in this incredible country.
RATS AND BATS AND CAMELS, OH MY!
Monday, October 13, 2014
Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India
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The Sunnies
2014-10-14
Please let me know when your newly acquired camel friends arrive in Toronto....we'll be right behind them! You both are amazing.....taking a camel ride, touring a rat temple (subways in New York City should be renamed rat temples!), taking in each and every one of the sights you are thrust into...certainly lets me know that there is a very big world out there just waiting to be explored! I continue to LOVE your blogs and feel as if I am right next to you, although I would have some difficulty riding atop a camel! Please continue to post your colorful blogs...love you both!
rita
2014-10-14
why are your pictures all green? Oh I think it is my envy - it sounds so very exciting.....
cissie.retired
2014-10-14
Happy Thanksgiving! We just finished celebrating it over this past weekend. I must say, no rats were included in our thankfulness! Yuck! I totally agree: gross!
I recall traveling in a tuktuk in Bangkok! Noisy, but neat transportation.
Love your blogs in such detail, rodents and all. AND, don't you both look fabulous atop of your new friends, the camels! Maybe if you have them come next year, they can attend the PanAm games!!
Kepp them coming!
Hope Springman
2014-10-15
To Mr. and Mrs. Indian-a Jones-Lilien - this blog was utterly amazing, from your descriptions of the rats to to the fortress to the camel ride. You really do make us feel like we're there with you! Can't wait to meet your new dromedary friends when they arrive in Toronto. Personally, I don't think they'll care for our weather or the rude drivers! Enjoy, enjoy! Look forward to reading your next exciting blog! Love, Hope
Joseph
2014-10-15
Awesome adventure. Hope your discoveries bring lots new treasures for all who are following your amazing blogs. Thanks so much for sharing. The screen does look green at times
Amy
2014-10-17
Parents, your India adventures sound wonderful and your descriptions are so rich and colourful! I'm so happy that India has made its imprint in your hearts and minds as it did in mine. I remember once, before I left on my voyage there, I met a man who had travelled in India some years back. I asked him how long ago it had been since he there. He replied that he had never left India. However many years later it was, not a day went by that he didn't think of that place. So eclectic, diverse, and magical. So complex. Both illogical and somehow perfectly sound. Everything and nothing. Contradiction incarnate.