Hola
Happy New Year from the southernmost city in the world where we celebrated the New Year at a friendly local bar in Ushuaia. We got into port early, the night before we were scheduled, so could wander around on NYE and try out our land legs after nearly 8 days at sea. On New Years Day we had a private tour booked with a local guide and the weather was marvellous, blue skies and 18 which is not the norm here, even in summer, more like 12 and windy and raining. Visited Tierra Del Fuego National Park and went to the end of the road, Route 3 from Alaska - no more roads south.
Met up with a fellow who looked totally exhausted having spent 3 years on a bicycle travelling the whole route down from Alaska.
Beautiful waterways with views across to the Darwin ranges in Chile. It’s very remote so the government enticed people to move down there in the 1980’s with promises of no income tax, cheap housing and other benefits.
After boarding the ship, the late afternoon and evening was spent cruising down Glacier Alley, a bit foggy, but great scenery late into the long evening.
The next day also was spent going through the Chilean Fjords, it was total scenery overload again. Trying not to get blase about the constant views every time you look up from your meal or drink.
It’s like being on a river cruise the waters were so calm as we sailed through the Magellan Strait and past countless islands.
Next port of call was in Chile in Punta Arenas where finally the weather gods decided it was time to rain on our parade. We walked around town instead of seeing more penguins, the centre of town being of course the Plaza de Armas (seems like every city has one). I kissed the foot of the statue of Magellan as belief has it that by doing so you’re forever cured from being seasick, but I don’t think I did a good job as still had to take my Sealeg meds when we hit the Pacific and some swells.
The bank windows were all boarded up and graffitied due to local protests, but business as usual in this port town which is the jump off base for Chilean Antarctic expeditions.
Following day was Port Chacabuco further north in Patagonia where we again had a local guide show us around the national park and inland towns such as Coyhaique, as Chacabuco is very small and the main attraction, according to our Cruise Director, was the park bench. Indeed it’s a very nice park bench but 8 hours to admire it was a bit over the top so we headed off into the wilds of Patagonia. PHOTO_ID_L=old-bridge-near-colhaique.jpeg]
Ingmar, our guide, was a quirky German fellow who moved to the area with his family 10 years ago where they bought some land and try to live sustainably, fish and hunt and grow their own vegetables and livestock. They now have 10 children, but are moving further north soon due to the persistent cold and rainy weather here, which we experienced first hand. His tales of his current life seemed to reflect the struggles of the early pioneers who permanently settled in the area only in the 1940’s when they set fire to the trees to clear the land as it was so rocky. Very rugged and remote with only one road in and out and that’s via Argentina.
Further up the Chilean coast we stopped for a day at Chiloe Island in the capital Castro. The island is famous for its many distinctive wooden churches, around 70 originally, and also colourful houses built on stilts over the harbour.
Witnessed a large local protest in the Plaza de Armas while I sat in the coffee shop opposite which was interesting, lots of police but quite peaceful. Lots of black headed swans in the harbour which were very distinctive.
Our next stop at Puerto Montt was cancelled due to bad weather as the Captain decided to try to run ahead of a big storm brewing in the south. This was a shame as we were looking forward to seeing the lakes and the volcanoes - another time. So an extra day at sea in a slight swell and an early arrival (the day before schedule) in San Antonio, the port for Santiago.
One last dinner on board and back on land after 22 days cruising - we were very lucky with the weather until the end, so maybe I’ve found another form of travel.
We had a local guide pick us up from the ship and take us to a couple of wineries in Casablanca Región. Apparently you have to book ahead to visit wineries here, pay for a tour and tastings and security is extremely tight, not like winery tastings in Australia where you just rock up and taste what you like with no obligation.
Tasted a few quite different red wine varieties which we liked. Lots of eucalyptus trees and very dry so landscape very reminiscent of Australia. Further north to our accommodation at Vina del Mar, which looks like a mini Gold Coast, especially as it’s in the middle of the summer holidays and full of local holidaymakers. Our apartment overlooks the beach and the Pacific as we obviously haven’t had enough of water over the last weeks. The waves crash over the rock wall in front at high tide spilling over the cars and road, so fun to watch people trying to unsuccessfully dodge the water from our window. Not exactly what we were expecting here but as our hotel was cancelled in Santiago just before our departure due to the continuing protests thought we’d try outside the city.
Did a day trip to Valparaiso which us just a few kilometres away and of which we get a great view from our apartment. Lots of wonderful painted houses and interesting and quirky laneways and also lots of stairs to climb if you don’t take a funicular.
After all that food on the cruise took the stairs as much as possible, but had fun riding down the steep slope in the funicular- cost was 25c. Lots of tourists but very relaxed and fun to visit.
Enjoying the mild weather on the coast but tomorrow is my last day on this trip.
As Treesh and Rosemary are staying on and flying north to Atacama tomorrow thought it best we all go together to the airport early as transfers very expensive from here. Euan and I plan to store our luggage at the airport and catch a local bus to central Santiago to do some sightseeing before flying back to Oz late that night.
It’s been a fantastic experience, with the visits to Antarctica and Iguazu Falls the absolute highlights, not to forget all the penguins. Thanks for taking the time to read my prattles and catch up soon..
Ciao
Liz
Absolutely fascinating trip Liz!
2020-01-12
Absolutely fantastic trip Liz! See you soon. Ana xx
Glenda
2020-01-12
Between you and Catherine, you both have scooped the pool in the scenery stakes. Breathtaking. Glenda
Katherine Reilly
2020-01-12
Reading all about your adventures Liz from Belfast. It looks absolutely brilliant and your photos are great.
Kyp
2020-01-12
Thanks for sharing! Hope you find all in order when you get home. We have been watching tv news footage of the terrible wildfires and damage to so many species of wildlife. Please let me know how you find things at home...Hugs, K+J
Mary
2020-01-12
Reading your blog about places I had never even heard of has me thinking how limited we can view 'our world'! Noted the common language of graffiti - what a trip to envelop the mind, body and senses. Wonderful experience Liz & Fellow Travellers
Margaret
2020-01-13
Great reading Liz. Love to go to all the places you visited. See you soon. Margaret