This morning everyone noticed I had different clothes on and congratulated me on getting my bag (and probably smelling better.) There was kind of a running joke for the last three days that at each stop someone would buy me something and I'd have to wear it. With this bunch of creative weavers I was actually kind of looking forward to that! Anyway, having my stuff is good. It was also a good lesson in what is actually essential when traveling - mostly a flexible attitude and contact lenses!
We said goodbye to beautiful Villa Zucarri and went to a hilltop town to wander around before our tour of the Pardi linen mill.
Fine linen weaving has been in this area for at least eight centuries. It's a little bit hard to wrap our heads around this kind of longevity and commitment to a craft, whether it's linen, sheep, truffles or wine. As a lady in Deruta said to me, "My family has been here making pottery since the 1500's. I stay here, I like it." The looms they use date to 1945 and the cards move the loom to create the patterns. It's kind of incredible. I can't say that I really understand all the ins and outs but as Karen said, "you'll never look at fabric the same way again!" Apparently the guy who manages the floor can tell just be listening if any of the zillions of little pins or movements on the looms are off in any way. Of course we got to shop in their showroom which was the best part!
Our next stop was the DiFillipo winery, famous for Sagrantino wines which of course date back to the 16th century. They were one of the first to try organic farming in Umbria - using no machinery to do the work. Instead of tractors, draught horses plow between the vines, compacting the soil less, providing natural fertilizer, and reducing use of fossil fuels. For their project “One Goose Revolution" they have 400 geese eating the wild herbs and grasses between the vines, pooping out fertilizer and reducing the need for mechanical cutting. They live a good life these geese but alas - they do get eaten. And thanks to the collaboration with the University of Perugia, they are part of a project called "Rural Chicken" which has discovered that because of their diet and exercise in the wild, their meat is healthier, and higher in omega 3 and omega 6 fatty acids. Happy geese! Good eats! The family is really proud of their farm and beautiful horses and the wine was very good, especially the white with no sulfates. Drink up!
Back on the bus on the way to Perugia we made a quick stop in Deruta to shop for its famous pottery. Super hard to resist, so both of us have MUCH heavier bags now!
We will be at Castello di Monterone for the next two nights. It's a restored 13th century castle thought to be a guard tower for the Knight's Templar. There are panoramic views of the Umbrian countryside and surrounding hilltop towns. All the rooms are unique and it's a maze finding your way around amidst 13th century frescoes, Roman columns, and Etruscan artifacts. Karen and I were given Camera delle feritoie - Chamber of the loopholes, referring to the arrowslit windows used by medieval archers.
There are nine small windows in the exposed stone walls and an incredible view through a mullioned window. It feels like a fairytale like so much of this trip! Lucky, lucky us. I can shoot your house from here!!!!
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Diana M Chang
2022-05-06
What an absolutely gorgeous trip. Good thing I’m not there. I would never be able to leave the pottery and linen sites.
Andrew
2022-05-06
So beautiful.
Lynn
2022-05-14
Would you send my sister Kay an invite to this site? Your adventure is right up her alley. kaymarilynkenton@gmail.com