Isola Maggiore then on to Tuscany!

Monday, May 02, 2022
Lago Trasimeno, Umbria, Italy
Today we said goodbye to our castle on the hill and headed to Lake Trasimeno to take a ferry over to Isola Maggiore - population 11.  ELEVEN. It swells a bit during the summer but really, it's 11. There are 8 churches here, the oldest dating to the 12th century.  This island used to be wealthy due to fishing and its tradition of fine lace making but it relies mainly on summer tourism now. We are here to check out the lace museum which was kind of underwhelming - there are apparently only two very old ladies who still make the lace, and they no longer sit outside in the square to demonstrate.
  I must say though it was a really memorable island lunch. Check out my appetizer! I thought this was lunch but it was just the first of three big dishes! We are drinking lots of wine at lunch and dinner - this group likes to drink! And, awesome news - I've been drinking plenty with no headaches yet. Yeah!
We hiked to the top of the island to the Church of St. Michael, a 12th century church with recently restored frescoes. It's kind of amazing how unprotected the church and artwork is, but the island has fallen on a bit of a hard time. Along the way were beautiful views and lots and lots of wild fennel.  (Fennel cake was part of lunch!) There are also tons of pheasants who enjoy life here - no hunting allowed. 
As we drove through Tuscany, the mustard plants were bright yellow, almost neon in the setting sun. Such beautiful countryside. For the next six nights we will be nestled in at Agriturismo Terre di Nano.  It's a 19th century country estate in Val d'Orcia, surrounded by rolling hills, vineyards, olive groves, grazing sheep, and spectacular views of the hilltop towns of Montepulciano, Pienza, and Montalcino. Every other day we will be in a workshop with Lynne Curran, an incredible tapestry artist whose work is in  Glasgow’s Gallery of Modern Art, the Uffizi museum and others. In between we will visit Siena and other surrounding hill towns. It's a bit intimidating to be working with such an accomplished artist among experienced weavers but I'm going to channel my teacher self and be a learner - I can do it!
Our group has the whole place to ourselves and Giorgio the chef will be cooking up our meals. They make all their own cheese, olive oil and wine. There are three dogs here - they are an Italian breed called bracco. They are a kind of pointer but all I know is they have the BIGGEST feet I've ever seen. They are super sweet and the female is very very old but still trots around.  Too hard to choose so there are many photos! Check out my morning sunrise walk and the other animals here!

Comments

Andrew
2022-05-10

Amazing scenery.

Cindy
2022-05-11

yes stunning!

2025-02-09

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