On the Road of 1000 Kasbahs

Sunday, October 10, 2010
Ouarzazate, Morocco
It was another day of travel, but we left the 4 x4s behind and are back on a big bus. The road from Tineghir to Ouarzazat (pronounced "whar's it at) is known as the road of a thousand Kasbahs because so many are seen along the road, and although I didn't count them, I know that I saw them in all shapes and sizes. A kasbah is a fortified house with four towers, one on each corner. The fortifications usually consist of a high wall and double gates. The older ones are made of mud bricks--a mixture of mud, straw, gravel, and a little water pressed into molds and dried in the sun-- just like adobe in our own Southwest. Newer Kasbahs are usually built of concrete blocks, but may be covered with plaster. The predominant color is a salmon pink, but occasionaly you see one with unpainted blocks.

The first stop was a photo op in the town of Boulmane Dades, to view the Dades Valley . It is a lush oasis with the Dades River flowing through it and fields of grain and vegetables. It was a interesting contrast between the green crops in the oasis, the pink buildings and the brown and red of the rocky slopes. Just outside of Boulmane we left the main road to visit the Dades Gorge. The drive to the gorge took about an hour and along the way we stopped to walk twice so we could get a better look at the at the villages and rock formations that line the gorge. We stopped at the small village of Ait Oudinar, where we visited a large and very wealthy family that lives in a house on the side of the gorge. Two of the daughters-in-law demonstrated how to make Berber pizza. It starts with bread dough, which is topped with finely chopped onions, green peppers, garlic, cumin, and a little lamb fat, and then folded and reshaped until the filling is covered. The round loaf is then baked over a wood fire, and sliced for serving. Our snack ended with the traditional mint tea, although this time it had the added flavoring of absinthe . We also toured the house which includes both old and new sections, at the very top of the house we were surprised to find a small garden, and a stable for the cows, sheep and goats. After visiting the family we switched to mini vans to explore the gorge. First, we drove along the top and observed the fantastic rock formations and then descented to the floor of the gorge to the point where the river descended from the mountain. Then we retraced our route first by van and then by bus until we were back on the road to Ouarzazate.

Our next stop was at a kasbah outside of Kal' at Mgouna where we had lunch with a local family. This kasbah has recently been enlarged and modernized. We had lunch in a large reception hall, sitting on cushioned divans and eating at low tables. Our host ate at our table and after watching hime eat the couscous, I tried to eat it Berber style. First, you use the fingers of your right hand to completely mash all of the ingredients. When totally blended, you scoop up a large glob and hold it in the palm of your right hand with the fingers curled up. Then you gently toss it until it forms a round firm ball. Then you move it to your finger tips, and use your thumb to flick the entire thing into your mouth. It is even more difficult than it sounds, especially if you don't completely mash and blend all ingredients. I might have done better, if I had been able to use my left hand, but that is not acceptable. By the time I finished, only one small bite had reached my mouth, and I had couscous and vegetables all over my right hand. Our host took pity on my mess and brought me the pitcher and basin so I could rewash my hand before drinking the postmeal mint tea.
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