Exploring Marrakesh--Or Saved by a Caleche

Tuesday, October 12, 2010
Marrakech, Morocco
A full day to explore mysterious Marrakesh, started early when we boarded our Caleches (horse drawn carriages) to visit the Koutoubia mosque and minaret, which is the symbol of Marrakesh. Construction began is 1147 and it is a masterpiece of Islamic architecture. It later served as a model for the Giralda in Seville and the Hassan Tower in Rabat. Like the majority of mosques in Morocco, it is closed to non-muslims, so our visit was limited to viewing the outside of the structure. Our next stop was Palais Bahia, built by two Grand Viziers at the end of the 19th century. Grand Viziers were like prime ministers, and obviously were very rich. The palace is named Bahia, in honor of the first wife of the Grand Vizier. It contains apartments for each of his 4 wives, 20 concubines, and 28 children. It is paved with marble and decorated with beautiful tilework, fluted columns and cedar ceilings ;painted with arabesques. There are courtyards and gardens in the center. Although it is empty today, it easy to imagine how it must have been a century ago, when the walls were hung with velvet, the floors covered with berber and arabic carpets and the favorites of the Grand Vizier, lounged on plump cushions eating dates and almonds, and probably sipping mint tea.

Our next stop was the Saadian Tombs . This necropolisis the burial place of Golden kings of Morocco who ruled during the16th century. It consists of two mausoleums, one with tombs of the kings and three royal princes, and a smaller, more modest structure, in which their wives are buried. In between the towo buildins are gardens planted with flowers symoblizing Allah's paradise, and containing the tombs of other members of the royal families. the tombs are beautiful, but much more restrained than the elaborate tombs that I saw in Turkey and India.

The spice market is located near the necropolis and we visited a Berber pharmacy where we learned about spices and herbs for cooking and health. Although many wonderful things were demonstated, I kept reminding myself that Istill have spices from India, Bali, and a few from Jordan, and tried to demonstrate some restraint.

Although lunch today was on our own, the entire group went to Portofino, an Italian restaurant. I've really enjoyed my Moroccan food, but was torn between pizza, ravioli, or eggplant . I finally settled on ravioli, but managed to sample someone's pizza, and someone else's tortellini. I don't think anyone left food on their plates. To end a perfect meal, gelato was available at a stand next door, but alas, I was too full to even eat one scoop.

After lunch, some us went to Jamaa El F'na square--the heart of Marrakesh. In the evening there are snake charmers, storytellers, acrobats, and magicians all competing for your attention and money. Even at midafternoon, there were a few entertainers scattered among the various merchants selling their wares. We spent a little time wandering the souks behind the squares, but Marilyn and I wanted to visit a government sponsored handicraft center before returning to the hotel. The center housed a number of individual craftsmen and since their prices are fixed, it provides a standard for judging items offered in the souks, where I will return tomorrow.

Ab had drawn a map so we could find our way back to the hotel . However, we obviously made a wrong turn. After about 15 minutes, we were outside la Mamounia Hotel, and asked for directions of a man who spoke no english, but a little french. Through a few phrases and pantomines, we thought we had directions, but 10 minutes later, it appeared that we had taken another wrong turn. At another hotel we sought directions from another man and his friend who spoke no english. Since we had a map, all I wanted to know was where we were. Finally, they drew us a diagram, and we started out again, past the fountain and to theright, and then to the left and then straight ahead to the hotel. After about 4 blocks we couldn't identify any of the streets shown on the map, and so turned left at the corner. Within a half block we were passed by a Caheche driven by our driver from the morning he recognized us and when we asked directions to the hotel, he told us to get in, so our final three blocks were by horse drawn carriage. IWe probably over-paid him, but it was well worth it to finally get back to the hotel. After our adventure this afternoon, we are staying in this evening.
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