This was a free day, but Ab had offered another half day tour to see things that we had missed yesterday, and most of the group decided to participate. Once again we boarded the horse drawn caliches, since trying to travel the narrow streets of the medina by bus would be impossible. Even in the carriages, we had some close calls. Because we were early, many of the shops were still receiving deliveries and we shared the roads with donkey carts and motor bikes. Our driver was fairly aggressive and wielded his whip at drivers who displeased him as well as his horses.

Our first stop was a 400 year old medresa that has been restored . It is much larger and more beautiful than the medresa that we visited in Fes. Of course, that medresa is almost 900 years old and has not been so completely restored.   Our next stop was the nearby Musee de Marrakesh which occupies the 19th century palace of a grand vizier. It displays contemporary art, Orientalist paintings and original engravings of Moroccan subjects. It is an interesting contrast between the marble floors, tilework, and fountains and very modern art. The Hammam has been restored and the current exhibit features a series of paintings of figures in states of undress with flames covering their heads, which is quite appropriate for the former steam rooms. In parts of the museum lighting is provided by neon tubes which have been formed into Arabic script.   Across from the museum is the oldest structure in Marrakesh, a brick dome that was built in 1106. It contains an ablutions pool (where the faithful washed before praying), a large cistern and some latrines. The decorative work is amazing on both the interior and exterior of the dome and a great example of the arts that flourished in Morocco while Europe was sunk in the dark ages .  

Like yesterday, the plan was to rotate seating. One person rode on the front seat beside the driver, and the other four faced each other—two forward and two facing the rear. However this carriage was slightly higher than the one I rode in yesterday. To complicate matters more, the driver had parked with the front wheels turned to the left. Mounting from the right side, you place your right foot on the hub of the wheel and then swing your left foot up to the floor of the carriage. I managed the first part and thought I had placed my left foot properly, when suddenly I lost my balance and started to fall backwards. Seeking something to hold on to, my right hand grabbed what I thought was a pole. Unfortuantely, it was the driver's whip, which immediately broke in my hand. I’m not sure how I managed to keep from landing on my backside, but I kept my feet, if not my dignity, and declined to take the front seat. Probably it was a good thing, because the driver was not very happy about his broken whip .

We reboarded our carriages and left the medina for Ville Nouvelle (new town) to see the Majorelle Garden. Located in an area of expensive shops and elegant highrises, it is a surprising oasis of green and tropical flowers, palm trees and cactus. It includes an art deco studio with bright blue walls. Besides its beauty, is its interesting history.   It was originally created by the French painter Jaques Majorelle, and was later owned by Yves Saint-Laurent. In one corner of the garden is a small boutique which sells some beautiful things, including a number of YSL items. However, I showed remarkable restraint and kept reminding myself of my future travel plans.  

Our final stop was for lunch at a sidewalk café. The unusual feature was that the meat was displaced in a butcher’s case and was ordered by weight and then grilled while we waited. I had a small serving a very tasty lamb chops and frites, and completely enjoyed the change from Moroccan food. A light lunch was necessary because this is the night of the farewell dinner. Although there is one more day of the tour, Marrakesh is a nicer place to have dinner than Casablanca.