Fez is a Hat, the City is Fes

Monday, October 04, 2010
Fes, Morocco
We got an early start for a full day of sightseeing in Fe's. Our first stop was to exchange money and to meet Mohammad, our local guide. Then we stopped at the Royal Palace, Dar el-Makhzen, located in Fe's el Jedid or New Fe's. This is seems a bit of a misnomer since it was built in 1276 by the Merinid Princes, but since the oldest parts of the city date from 789, it is relatively new. Since the palace is still used by the King of Morocco when he visits Fe's, it is closed to the public and our views were limited to the Place des Alaouites, and the magnificent Moorish gateway and exquisitely engraved bronze doors. Located only a short distance from the palace is the Mellah or Jewish Quarter.   This quarter dates from the 13th century, but today most of the Jews have left to settle in Casablanca or have emigrated to Israel. The traditional architectural style features tall, narrow buildings with shops on the ground floor and living space above.

After our walking tour, we drove to the outskirts of Fe's to learn about its famous blue and white ceramics . Watching the process from working the clay to fashioning beautiful pots, and seeing skilled craftsmen shape small tiles into elaborate tables and fountains was amazing. While I wanted to buy it all, sanity prevailed and I came home with only a few small pieces.

Although we had already seen a lot, it wasn't even lunchtime and the amazing souks were yet to be explored. So, we headed back to the Medina and began to play follow the leader through lanes so narrow that we could only walk single file. Occasionally a doorway would be open and we had glimpse of lovely tiled hallways, until finally we entered the souks where each craft has its own area. It is also where we first learned two very important words--the french "attencion" or the Arabic "balloch" both of which might be shouted when you are about to be run down by a donkey. Because the streets of the souks are so narrow and crowded, animals are the only way of transporting large items. Several times I had to step quickly or squeeze against the wall to avoid a collision .

One of the highlights of the morning was a visit to the Karaouiyine Library which was established in the 14th Century and was used by the greatest Moorish men of learning. We also visited a beautiful Medersa. Medersas were both cultural and religious establishments. It was a residential college for local and rural students where they could study religion, law, science and even the arts. It was also a place of prayer and reflection. The beautiful tiles, carved stucco, calligraphy, elaborate woodwork, and stained glass windows reflect both the skill of the craftsmen and the honor given to this place of learning and faith.

Finally it was time for lunch and we stayed in the Medina to eat in a house that had been converted into a family-owned restaurant. The dining room was the former courtyard and the walls were decorated in the best local tradition. The meal ended with the traditional mint tea.    After lunch we continued our explorations with a visit to the Tanners' Quarter to learn about traditional leather making . Because unpleasant odors result from the tanning process, each of us received a large sprig of mint to hold under our nose, and it really did minimize the smell.   Animal hides are stripped of hair and flesh, and then are softened by soaking in special solutions containing bark of pomegranate or mimosa. The hides are then dyed in huge vats using a variety of natural pigments. Yellow is the most expensive color because the dye includes saffron. Finally, the hides are spread to dry on walls,rooftops, and hillsides around the city. Our final stop of the day was a weavers shop. In addition to beautiful silks and brocades, it also sold scarves that could be used for protection on our upcoming camel ride and stay in the the Sahara.

It had been a long day, but it wasn't over yet, because this was the day of our home-hosted dinner. We were divided into two group. My group was visiting the home of a family that did not have car to transport us all, so we met our host Kareem . He seemed very young and when we learned that he was a student we were a little puzzled. Soon we arrived at his home, a large apartment in a newer part of the city, where we met his mother, Amina and his older brother Nabil. We had an interesting conversation with the family and soon were served the first course of our dinner. It was Harina, the traditional Moroccan vegetable soup. Sometime during the salad course, our actual host arrived. We were surprised to recognize our local guide, Mohammad, who had stepped in at the last minute when our original host had a conflict. Our conversation became more lively as we discussed politics, education, and Moroccan attitudes towards religion. Our entree was roasted chicken and rice, and we ended the meal with flan and wonderful sesame cookies and another glass of mint tea. All too soon, it was time to say good-bye to our gracious hosts and return to the hotel. It was only later that I realized I had been so busy talking that I had failed to take any pictures of the family.
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