Our Week in Norfolk
Monday
We had scheduled a “Discover Norfolk Island” tour.
The boys thought this would be nice for the girls to have a local tour of the island. With our experienced and knowledgeable local guide “Rachel”, who introduced us to all that Norfolk Island has to offer and share with us fascinating insights into all of the handy tips to help us get the most out of our holiday here in Norfolk. We visited several sites just to name a few, Kingston World Heritage Site, Mt Pitt, Cascade Pier, Anson Bay, and St Barnabas Chapel. A fabulous way to explore Norfolk Island. Complimentary morning tea was included back at Puppy’s point where we reflected on our afternoon session yesterday. I must say we were all feeling a bit weary and were happy to be driven home. Upon leaving the bus, the boys explained they were previous bank employees that worked on the island 35 years ago. Rachel stated the “bank boy’s were legends, here on the island”. Another funny comment she made was, that back then she was 14 and she was told by her father she was never allowed to go to the banky’s house to attend their parties!!!?? Word travelled pretty quickly they were here and the boys made the news on the local radio station.
Today was Wendy Hohnberg’s birthday and we spent the afternoon preparing dinner, cake and supplies. We had a wonderful afternoon and evening, celebrating and spending time together. The food here is amazing, fresh, organic and the fish is trumpeter and in abundance, even when everything else is in short supply. We had lamb and beef, salad and garlic bread for dinner and it was so very tasty.
Tuesday
We went for a casual stroll up to town and wandered through the shops. People were so warm and friendly. We ended up at “Castaway” for lunch. Cocktails, wine, local brew, seafood, chicken and Mexican on the menu, so delicious. With the boys all getting local T-shirts. We headed to the RSL for a couple of cleansing ales, with all beers in cans. A great afternoon and then home to a beautiful grazing platter for dinner, (thank you Carolyn and Cricket).
Wednesday
Early in the morning we visited the Norfolk cemetery. For two centuries and counting, this oceanfront burial place is now part of the Kingston UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The tombstones read like a who’s who of Norfolk Island history.
You’ll find convicts from the First Fleet, soldiers and sailors, descendants of Bounty mutineers and other island residents, including beloved novelist Colleen McCullough, buried here.
We wandered through at our own pace, reading the headstone engravings, which reveal often-tragic details about causes of death and hint at the brutality of life on the island’s 19th-century convict compound. The boys found some old friends buried here, which was a bit sad for them.
We then went to Emily Bay for a snorkel. Emily Bay is the safest swimming spot on the Island. The sparkling crystal clear waters of Emily Bay are protected from the breakers and the southern ocean by a reef just off the Lone Pine headland. The marine life on the reef is abundant with colourful tropical fish quite common among the coral. There is a pontoon in the bay that makes for a nice breather when you have a swim. On a calm day, Slaughter Bay is a great spot for snorkelling and if the swell is right the waves pick up nicely for a surf, but you may get hurt on the reef.
In the afternoon the boys played golf. Norfolk island has one of the most scenic golf courses. The 18 hole (nine with two tees) course is set amid the iconic pines and edged by the South Pacific waters of Emily Bay, the Norfolk Island golf course offers jaw-dropping views from every hole. With gusty, ball-snatching winds, thick kikuyu grass and short, unforgiving greens.
Whilst the boys played golf, the girls did the Colleen McCullough tour.
Colleen McCullough, world-renowned author of 24 books called Norfolk Island home for almost 36 years. She and husband, Norfolk Islander, Ric Robinson, created a luxurious hideaway and maintained their privacy to ensure that Colleen had the perfect environment for her writing. Some of her most powerful titles were created in this much-loved sanctuary.
Her beloved property "Out Yenna" is now open to the public for private tours. We were escorted through her magnificent home by housekeeper “Rebecca” to view Ric and Colleen's priceless collection of artefacts gathered on their travels all over the world.
This is a glimpse into the life of a modern-day literary icon. If you have read her amazing books, you will love the experience of sharing the world of Colleen McCullough, author of "Tim", "The Thornbirds" and "Morgan's Run".
Later that evening in the Channers house. Locals, Marbles & Wendy organised local friends to come over for dinner and cook a local “Fish Fry”. A fish fry is a favourite tradition on Norfolk among locals and visitors alike. Most of the group brought oil in our suitcases as there is a island shortage. Fish Fry is a mouth-watering feast of a local made batter and fresh fish, fried in a 1/2 keg like gas cooker, compliemented with bread, salads and yummy coconut sweets. We all ate far too much but it was delicious đŸ˜‹. Thank you everyone for organising such a great evening!
Thursday
Marbles and Wendy organised a visit to the local Commonwealth Bank House, known as “Burgs” on Burgulars Lane. Only a couple of streets from the centre of town and close to the local hospital. Not sure if that was a good or bad thing? Now privately owned and a little bit different from what the boys could remember.
Lots of memories and party nights had here. They still had a Commonwealth Bank sign in the wood shed. The Westpac house known as JR’s, “juicy roots”, was not visible from the road but still had the orchard out front of the property, it is now up for sale. It was located a bit further out of town near the airport.
We also visited Marbles and Wendys beautiful island home which is currently leased out to tenants.
Food on the island is brought over by a ship and as Norfolk has no harbours, the supplies are bought to shore by traditional long boats, towed by motorised launches. There are 2 jetties, and it depends on the sea conditions as to which one is used. This time it was Kingston jetty and we drove down there to view this very traditional and well run operation.
We then went for a bush walk in the 100 acres reserve, a beautiful peaceful walk through nature. Lots of birds here such as masked booby, mutton birds, red tailed tropicbirds nest on the cliff edges. The walking trail is located on the south-west of the island, on Headstone Road, opposite the magnificent Moreton Bay fig trees.
We then popped into the Golf club to check out the great view from the club house. All the food was sold out but the chef managed to find some home made spring rolls and fish pate, wow, it was superb.
Dinner tonight was at the “Homestead”. The Homestead is a beautiful 1930's home and the kitchen is a wood fuelled Argentinian Perilla grill. The menu is designed around cooking over embers to intensify and develop the depth of flavour of the seasonal local produce, meat and seafood found on the Island. Just the most beautiful setting, food and wine.
Friday
Today we visited Cyclorama. Cyclorama is a 360 degree panoramic painting bringing to life the history of the Norfolk Island people and their connection with the infamous mutiny on the ‘Bounty’. A spectacular 3D effect with detailed artwork, storyboard and maps. A great history lesson.
A quick drive to ball bay, a northern bay of the island where all the rocks are ball shaped. Then back to Hilli’s restaurant for lunch. Had the most delicious seafood crepe there. We then said goodbye to the Brisbane flight crew, Bob and Alice and Cricket and Carolyn.
We then drove back over to the Kingston World Heritage site. The 250 hectare site includes four fascinating layers of history and occupation. Primarily, the site comprises a large group of buildings and archaeological sites and ruins from the Penal Convict Settlement 1824 -1855 with evidence of buildings from the earlier Colonial Convict Settlement 1788-1814 and an exceptional cultural landscape, evocative of the convict era. There are also archaeological remains from the pre-European Polynesian Settlement before 1788. Pitcairn Islanders re-settled on Norfolk Island in 1856 and established their families and communities within the vacant Penal Convict Settlement buildings at Kingston. We then visited the HMS Sirius Museum, on 19 March 1790 HMS Sirius, flagship of the First Fleet, was wrecked off the reef at Slaughter Bay on Norfolk Island. Because of her role as the flagship, it is now arguably Australia's most important shipwreck site. Approximately 6,000 artefacts were recovered during official Expeditions between 1983 and 2002.
Then a quick visit to No “10 Quality Row”, now a museum, this house was built in 1844 for the Foreman of Works, during the height of the infamous Second British Settlement. The house had a underground cool room, bread oven and kitchen out the back with the pit toilet. Funny enough Mark recognised the the museum guide as a old girlfriend of one of the bank boys.
Then back to the RSL club for dinner and raffles for our last night. No winning tickets this time but a bank reunion mentioned just before tonight’s ode welcoming the boys back to Norfolk Island. This made our trip just that bit more personal.
Saturday
Pack up day and a last minute visit to the shops. The rain has set in and we arranged our last lunch at “Castaway”. Finishing off with a yummy lunch and goodbye to Marbles and Wendy as they were staying on for another week. Unfortunately we must have shared the fringe of the weather system that had been flooding the mid north coast and Queensland for the last week and it moved over to Norfolk. Our flight was delayed and the plane was diverted over to Auckland to refuel and then return. So nice of Channers to accept us back for drinks and nibbles to pass the afternoon by. Back to the airport via the Leagues Club and 9 schooners later and definitely the “last beer” before boarding our flight at 8.15pm. Got to bed at our hotel in Sydney at 12am.
A great holiday and a fantastic trip to Norfolk Island, thank you everyone for organising it, especially Wendy and Marbles. The boys even got a mention in the local paper!!
Robyn Yabsley
2021-04-05
Great account of the fantastic holiday. Thanks Kylie for doing his. Great for the boys to relive their memories & for all of us -creating new ones. Xx
Alice Whetton
2021-04-06
Great job Kylie. Nice to have this to look back when we next visit the Island to see the changes, if any. Hopefully it will be sooner than 35 years! It was a wonderful group trip.xx