May 24 to June 3, 2014
ESSAOUIRA 
Riad Inna - Marrakech Suite. without breakfast, 265dh/$32 
 
....We said goodbye to the great people at Riad Thais. We felt a little bad about changing hotels. But we planned to linger in town and the rooms there were just too cramped for us to be totally comfortable. So we moved over to Riad Inna. Abudla and the pretty girl (forgot her name:<) on the front desk were always warm and smiling. They made us think we were special guests! Good staff always improves our impression of a hotel. We liked the location. The price, with our longer stay discount, was better than other options in the medina.

The ocean breeze keeps the town cool and we were using an extra blanket rather than an A/C controller at night. We don't even remember if the Inna has A/C. 
    

Mellow Medina
 
The walls of Essaouira's medina surround a vibrant mishmash of old and new. The ocean air ravages painted walls and corrodes bicycles and any metal items instantly. Characteristic of Moroccan medinas, it has a complex maze of narrow lanes. No motorized vehicles are allowed and mostly adhered to. But bikes snake through the pedestrians all the time. We watched a guy on rusty bike, with two carton boxes of baguettes, collide with another bike and go down. 
 
Then, there is the fish market, where you can have your purchase cooked up to order. And the section where woodworkers have been practicing their craft for generations. They make some pretty impressive wood inlay work. For us, a picture will have to suffice. There are scores of tastefully remodeled boutique hotels and plenty of lovely budget accommodations that line the narrow lanes. Of course, there are art galleries (often with Jim Morrison, Marilyn Monroe, or Jimi Hendrix poster size prints), craft shops, a museum and endless tourist shops selling carpets, leather goods and the usual cheap souvenirs. "Kif" or "hash" was whispered in our direction a few times until they got to know us. African rhythms drift from music shops. Wandering Berber minstrels would twang a few notes in front of cafes for a few moments then pass the tambourine for donations. Calls to prayer blare from nearby mosques, seemingly in competition rather than in cooperation. Tourists only frequent a handful of thoroughfares. No shops, no tourists. From our room, we watched a steady stream of people go by. 
 
We found the Essaouira restaurant scene a bit dismal, all the same ol' same ol'. Once we found the haskjhas, with clean linens, simple but attractive decor, carefully presented tasty food, we went back again and again. We went three times for the chèvre menu (tajine goat) which was a cut above. The calamari plate was fresh and served hot. We recommend that good place. Other times, rather than yet another restaurant experience, we went to the 'snack' places for a pizza or swarma. We bought fruit and got fresh bread and made our own avocado sandwiches too. On our last day, we went over to the highly recommended, Caravane Cafè for a last splurge supper. It happened to be closed that day. 
 

Sandy Beach
 
Outside the medina wall is a broad beach and favorite destination for wind and kite surfers. We learned from a repeat visiting French kite surfing fanatic, that the wind rages more often than not and a strong wind is good. Gusty wind, like today, is bad. We see many wanna-be kite surfers out with instructors. Quad bike and camel rides are also available on the beach.



The Rest

The rest of the town, which I may add, is not very attractive, is north of the medina. We ventured out several times and had some new name cards printed. Premium paper (laminate) wasn't available and they didn't do as good a job, but it will do. On way back, we hailed a horse and carriage. We were told by print shop director that the rate is 2 dh (25 cents) per person. Some drivers are honest and others will try to ask a "special tourist rate". After we pointed out to one driver that we knew the normal rate was 2 dh, he replied, "But you are tourists." He accepted our 5 dirham (with a 12 cent tip ;) without fuss.
 
We quickly fell into a comfortable lazy routine. We'd find our favorite stall to buy our olives and fruit, and our favorite places to eat and terraces to hang out upon.

We found a leather shop, with beautiful supple lamb skin jackets, and I we ordered a custom sized purse for my iPad Mini. We stopped in and looked at the progress and they had put a backing layer on the previously refined leather. The backing made the leather a cardboard box wrapped in leather rather than something smooth and elegant. The shop keeper politely refunded my deposit rather than trying again. He will be able to put that purse in his store with other inventory.

We reserved 1st class window seats on the bus/train combo to the former Capital of Meknes, for the 3rd.