July 14, 2014 
MONSANTO to MANTEIGAS in Parque Naturel da Serra da Estrela 109km
Hotel Vale do Zêzere €45, double including breakfast
 

Zêzere
  
The room fan was was enough to keep comfortable through the night at Casa do Chafariz in Monsanto. The sun was beating down on our terrace when we awoke at 8 am. The owner was nowhere to be found when we were ready to check out. Dave called her on his phone and she told us to leave the money and key in the quarto. 


Marafonas - Marathon Siege Dolls
 
Towns-women were selling simple little rag-dolls for a few euros. The dolls were not nice and we were perplexed that this was the best tourist souvenir they could come up - and they all sold the same thing. Jeez, at least have some variety. Later, we read about a Monsanto tradition:

"One of the most symbolic traditions of Monsanto is the Festival of the Holy Cross, to commemorate the resistance to a long history of sieges: the women carry to the top of the castle typical rag-dolls (known as "marafonas") and clay jars full of flowers are thrown from the walls."

Next May, we will have to come back, buy some Morofonas dolls, and reenact the epic battles by throwing the dolls off the castle too!


Mons Sanctus
 
Monsanto was voted in 1938 the "most Portuguese village in Portugal" what ever that means. 

We hiked up the hill (758 meters (2486 feet)) to the Monsanto head, Latin as Mons Sanctus, the Holy Mountain.
 
 
We took 2 hours to hike to the castle high above town and ogle at the views. The hike through the narrow picturesque streets of town. Some of the homes incorporated the granite boulders and mountain wall into their house. A steep trail led us the rest of the way into the castle. The stupendous views kept us there for 45 minutes. 
 
 

At Home In the Pines

Today, we entered Parque Naturel da Serra da Estrela, a popular winter sport destination in winter and has extensive networks of hiking and (cross-country ski) trails. 

It was early in the afternoon as we drove up the glacial valley of the river Zêzere. We loved entering the pine and fir forest.It would have been a shame to drive through the lush mountains too quickly. We picked a hotel in Manteigas and enjoyed the fresh air and mountain views from our balcony.