May 13, 2015 
UBUD to BESAKIH to TIRTA GANGGA - 87KM 
Puri Sawah Bungalows & Restaurant
250000Rs - A serene place in the midst of rice paddies 

54 Mile Scooter Ride

Goal of this three-day trip was to do a reconnaissance to Amed to see if we'd like to spend our last month in Bali there. Supposedly, Amed is a great snorkeling and diving destination.

We took minimal luggage. Not even a change of clothes. - just wash and wear. Since our plan was to move to Inata Bisma Hotel upon our return to Ubud, in three days, we arranged to store our big luggage there. Dave took two trips (3 km) on the scooter then came back for me. 

On our way out of Ubud, we dropped our passports off to start the visa extension process, which will take about a week. And at around 10:30, we headed north-east along scenic windy road amidst rice paddies. It turned out to be one of the most scenic and enjoyable rides ever. Small villages dotted with family temples protruding above the protective walls. It was tourist free. The Bali far removed from the yoga dens and spa resorts. It is not unusual to happen upon a ritual or celebration. We stopped to admire the intricately folded and cutout bamboo decorations at temple entrances in preparation for the rituals. 
 

Penglipuran Village and Bamboo Forest
 
The route we chose took us through the Penglipuran Village and Bamboo forest. And we learned that the spectacular forest consists of several different types of bamboo: "Tiying Jajang", used as house construction material, "Tiying Tali" used to produce rope, plaiting works, and house roofs, and "Tiying Ampel, with short segments and "Tiying Selem", a black bamboo. 

We stopped to take a stroll along one of the beautifully groomed paths meandering through the forest. All we could hear were the chirping birds and the tall bamboo stalks creaking in the breeze and the faint music of a Gamelan orchestra playing in the distance. We walked towards the sound of the music and came out at the walls surrounding an ancient temple at the edge of Penglipuran Village. A group of Chinese tourists was just leaving and the music stopped. We briefly looked around this traditional village and temple before continuing. 


Menanga Along the Road to Besakih
 
We planned to stop at one of the most sacred temple sites in Indonesia, Besakih Hindu Temple on our way. Which meant a considerable detour. We were not bound to be in one place or another by reservation.
 
We lunched at gorgeous Artha Agung Resort in Menanga. The food was mediocre but the stunning pool/garden setting and terraced rice paddies below us with backdrop of mount Agung, made up for it. 

Besakih Mother Temple

About 5 km from there was Besakih Mother Temple situated at 1000 meters on the slopes of mount Agung. It consists of 22 Temples. And it turned out to be a worthwhile stop. We consequently spent a lot longer than planned. 
 
The one annoyance were the "guides" that insist that you can't visit the inner sanctum without them because "today, a special ceremony is being held." Most people got suckered in by them. It turned out, we, who wanted to explore the place on our own, had full access to the entire temple complex. We enjoyed the views over the temple spires as we climbed higher on the maze of stairs and steps. 
 

Puri Sawah Bungalows and Resort 

Nearing 5 pm, we stumbled upon Puri Sawah Bungalows. We stopped to monitor our progress on Google Maps. We still had a long way to go and our backsides were sore. If they had room, we were going to stay here and continue to Amed in the morning. We got lucky.
 
The place is owned by British woman and her Balinese husband. She is great cook. In addition to the Balinese favorites, tasty western dishes are also on the menu. Our simple room had lovely view over the rice terraces. A very relaxing atmosphere.