It takes a little while to reach the heart of Celilabad, as it's a ways off the highway, down a long shady road until the Traveler starts to wonder if there is a center to this town....
Finally he reaches the ever present large park/plaza, where he's promptly greeted by a young fellow who speaks excellent English . The fellow is excited to see a tourist coming to visit his town.
"I've never seen a foreigner here in Celilabad!" he exclaims.
He invites the Travelr for chai (along with a plate of slices of Snickers bars--an "Azerbaijani treat"!), and they get to talking about life in Azerbaijan. Elnur is not just your average citizen, he's actually a pilot for the national airline, a brilliant young fellow, with a good grasp of what's really going on in his country. He said he was actually accepted to take a course of studies in the United States, but by the time he got his visa it was too late. I guess that explains why so many here look to Russia for opportunities, rather than looking west.
Elnur invites the Traveler to his parent's home for dinner, and he accepts, so they head over to a nearby Soviet era apartment block--where their apartment is small but well maintained and nicely decorated. Here he join Elnur and his parents at the kitchen table for my first typical Azerbaijani dinner of meat and vegetable stew. Followed is a short concert as the Traveler sings a couple of heartfelt songs for his host.
He knows he'll never forget the hospitality shown to me here by Elnur and his family in Celilabad.