5 hrs, 8.2 kms

Day Totals: 13 hrs, 14 .2 kms



Most of the fields here are cultivated—but there are also a lot of sheep and goat herds being driven home for the evening. I notice that the none of the herds enter the lush fields as they pass, following the trails. It looks like the timeless "herdsmen vs farmers" dilemma is working out OK in this region.

Darkness is fast approaching, but there is a village a few hundred meters off the road that is begging to be checked up, so finally give it—and am glad I do. Kharoua is a fully traditional village—something I'm used to seeing high in the mountains, but not this close to the big city. Here, you walk down alleys between walled in family compounds, all clustered together tightly. Big herds of sheep kick up dust as they scurry towards their respective homes.

A little girl comes running over to me. No, not to ask for money or candy—just to shake my hand . There’s something pure and unsullied about this place. A glimpse into life as it used to be in this region… before the days of mass tourism, golf courses and poorly planned semi-urban sprawl. Definitely glad I came to check out this place.

Afterwards I follow a path through the fields that reconnects me with the Tahannaout road. It’s getting dark now, and I suddenly realize that my biggest danger here isn’t the people… it’s the dogs. Dogs left to guard the farm houses it seems are ready to go beyond the call of duty. I keep myself well stocked in rocks which I keep clearly visible—that seems to do the trick.

Finally I reach the lit main street of Tahannaout, where I grab a quick supper before hopping on the bus back to Marrakech… and back home. I’ll be back though. Next stretch: up the mountains to Toubkal. But that will have to wait until the snow melts in the late spring.