4 hrs, 10.0 kms



The next morning I have a race against the clock: First, hike from Skoura to Toundoute 22 kilometers across a flat, barren wasteland . Then catch a collective taxi back to Skoura… catch a collective taxi to Ouarzazate… catch a bus to Marrakech… Catch a late night bus to Casablanca to arrive sometime around midnight, giving myself some "elbow room" before I start work at 9 in the morning. Doable—but I'll need an early start and keep a quick pace. Also, the less time I have to spend walking in the heat of the day, the better.


So, at the time of the predawn prayers , I’m off, trudging off into the darkness. I reach the Toundoute road which says 26 kilometers, not 22… that’s OK… still doable.

I’m not alone though. Numerous cargo truck rumble past. It’s market day in Toundoute and they’re also trying to get an early start setting up. Finally, as sunrise nears, I reach the north edge of the Skoura oasis where there’s another village, Tirigouite, which I decide to count. Nothing really special except for one auberge which is fixed up nice as a traditional riad.