A different tour of Dublin

Thursday, July 27, 2017
Dublin, County Dublin, Ireland
We noticed something very interesting about our tour of Dublin.
We had been here only about six weeks ago on our Rome to Miami cruise aboard Oceania’s Insignia.
We took a Dublin city tour then, but it bore little similarity to the city tour this time around.
Last time, we spent a lot of time at Trinity College, including a stop to view the famous Book of Kells, an illustrated Bible written by Irish monks about 1,200 years ago. (I know, I’d never heard of it either.)
This time, our guide barely pointed out one of the college’s buildings as we drove by.
Last time, we barely saw the River Liffey, which cuts through Dublin’s city center.
But this time, we started our tour on the river, with a brief cruise on the Liffey Voyager, an unusual boat. It sits low in the water so it can fit under the bridges that cross the river.
And there are a lot of bridges.
The most interesting one came first: the Samuel Beckett Bridge.
As our guide explained, the bridge is named for the man who wrote Waiting for Godot, a play in which nothing happens, in both acts.
Near the bridge was an equally interesting new building, resembling an off-kilter beer glass. It serves as a convention center (or as they say here: centre.
Further up the river we came across another landmark, the Custom House. The side facing the river is identical to the street side.
Later, after our river cruise ended and we transferred to a bus to continue our tour, we passed the pedestrian Ha’penny Bridge, named for the toll charged by the man who built it in 1816. It’s the oldest cast iron bridge in Europe.
We passed through a district filled with Georgian-style buildings, each with differently colored front doors.
According to our guide, who had her tongue firmly in her cheek, the colors made it easier for the inebriated Dubliners to find their home when they could no longer read their building’s address.
Next, we entered Phoenix Park, the largest enclosed park in Europe, and twice as big as New York’s Central Park.
The park was originally created in 1662 for the enjoyment of the royals, but opened to the public about 80 years later. It’s filled with lots of buildings, including the residence of Ireland’s president, and the U.S. ambassador to Ireland.
The Papal Cross sits on the meadow where Pope John Paul II celebrated mass for thousands of people in 1979.
The Wellington Testimonial honors the Dublin-born Duke of Wellington.
We stopped at the Visitor Centre, filled with posters describing the park’s history. There was also a simulation of a forest scene, complete with stuffed animals that live in the park.
Next door we walked through the 2½ acre Victorian Walled Kitchen Garden, filled with vegetables, herbs, and beautiful bee-attracting flowers.
On the other side of the Visitor Centre, stands Ashtown Castle, believed to date back to the 1430s, when a stipend was paid to anyone who built a castle for their own safety. It was incorporated into an official government residence in the late 1700s. It wasn’t until that building was demolished in 1978 that the castle was re-discovered inside.
Our city tour concluded with a brief photo stop outside St. Patrick’s Cathedral, founded in 1190. I couldn’t help myself from taking a photo of the ultra-detailed warning sign on a wall outside the building.
The cathedral’s most famous Dean was Jonathan Swift, author of Gulliver’s Travels. He also anonymously penned the satirical A Modest Proposal, in which he suggested that poor people could sell their children to be eaten by the rich:  "A young healthy child well nursed, is, at a year old, a most delicious nourishing and wholesome food, whether stewed, roasted, baked, or boiled; and I make no doubt that it will equally serve in a fricassee, or a ragout."
Of course, no visit to Dublin would be complete without a mention of Guinness. We passed the giant brewery but didn’t stop for a taste.
Dublin’s skyline is filled with construction cranes. One stands over a 15-story building that was originally going to be devoted to the entire musical organization behind the group U2.
Our guide didn’t know the details of why the deal fell apart, but now the building will now be leased out to other businesses.
Next stop: the Faroe Islands.

Comments

Don Johnston
2017-08-04

What! No photos of pubs? When I was in Dublin in 1985 I was struck by how few restaurants (and of those most were fast food) there were and how many pubs. A local explained that the Irish like to drink their meals, especially since at the time pub hours were restricted.

Lynda Seaver
2017-08-04

I loved Tower Records. You'd have to drag me out of there. Obviously Dublin is more civilized

Rifka and joe
2017-08-04

We loved what we experienced in Dublin. The book of Kells was amazing and we loved the atmosphere. Happened to be in town on Bloomsbury day and that was so much fun. As usual your photos and commentary is superb. Love to u both

2025-05-23

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