We left our lovely little country cottage, Chabrenas, after a very relaxing week, and headed to Limoges for a night before catching the train to Paris. We returned the hire car in Limoges, so now we are back to using our legs, trains and buses. Despite the trials of driving on the wrong side of the road, and getting used to quite unusual roadsigns, plus the perils of navigating when the road you were planning to take has been closed, or is one-way (and always the wrong way!), it was great being able to get out into the country to see some of the smaller villages and towns.

But it's also nice to be back staying in the middle of town so that walks in the evening are possible, and we don't have to drive after eating and drinking . We are staying at another good Mercure Hotel in the centre of town, on the 5th floor so we have a great view over the city. The Mercures in Italy and France have all been refurbished, and their use of small spaces is very clever. The ones we have stayed at have all had four star ratings, have been really quite cheap, have very good soundproofing, great beds, free internet etc.

Limoges, like most places around here, has an old medieval town with wooden framed houses, several large churches and a cathedral, as well as many museums and gardens. In one of the churches, there is a plaque explaining about the wonders of Saint Loup who was Bishop of Limoges in the 7th Century, and whose remains are preserved in the church. The Bishop was (supposedly) responsible for many miracles during his life. Every year, on 22 May, there is a parade through the streets of Limoges to honour the Saint, and St Loup's skull is carried in a gold container, partially open so that people can kiss it and hope for a miracle. Goodness - how sad that people might think this will cure them!

The cathedral has some magnificent flying buttresses, plus some fabulous Gargoyles (water spouts). We rounded off our lightning visit with dinner in an Italian restaurant which was run by two women who did everything themselves (serving people, cooking all the food, preparing the drinks etc) all with friendly smiles, little chats. The food was absolutely delicious, so if you are ever in Limoges, we recommend La Pause Gourmande. Bon appetit!