Chapter 3 Tuesday - 9/11
After a quick breakfast we checked out of our hotel and took a taxi to the Gare Lyon train station and procured sandwiches to take aboard for our lunch en route to Montpellier. The train ride was smooth and fast (275 km/hr!) southward through the pastoral countryside. Todd was waiting for us in the Montpellier station and had already rented a car so we were quickly headed to our next destination: Carcassonne.
We drove about two hours west to the Medieval walled city of Carcassonne. A UNESCO Heritage site, the Cite is protected from traffic, so we parked in a lot outside the walls where a shuttle from our hotel took us inside to the Hotel de la Cite. Built on the site of the former (700 yrs ago) Bishop's palace, it was opened in 1909 as a resort. Our rooms are lovely and comfortable, looking out to the Cathedral St. Nazaire on the southern edge of the old town away from most of the tourist crowds. We started exploring the Medieval Cite by walking up the Main Street, but found it full of tourists and trinket shops. We made our way to the outer walls for a quieter environment and views over the surrounding countryside. Here you can see the history of he City in the layers of the various additions to walls by the rulers. Besides the beauty of the landscape, one can understand the strategic importance of this spot as a fortress defending the area. We returned to the Hotel garden for a relaxing drink before dinner. Piece de resistance of this day: dinner at Parc Le Table de Franck Patelat. The restaurant is located down the hill outside the walls of the city on a quiet winding side street, modern with a pretty garden where we were seated outside with a view of the sunset sky. Now for the food - totally amazing! First a tree of amuse-bouche: one with foie gras on macaroon, one with anchovies in a tiny square of black pastry, a tiny goat cheese mousse tart, and a small shrimp topped with caviar. Then savory thyme herbed croissant rolls with a special lemon olive oil. We all chose the langoustine starter - succulent langoustine on a tomato tartare with tiny piped florets of guacamole all around. For our main courses: Pam and Greg chose beef filet imbedded with black and white truffles, accompanied by an artichoke heart with its cavity filled with cheese mousse and a slice of black truffle, and a tiny tower of delicate cheese wrapped in carrot and string bean strips on a bed of sautéed mushrooms. Warren and Todd opted for the veal shoulder perfectly roasted and tender, with two bundles of spinach-wrapped sardines. The cheese course was served from a wheeled cart with several drawers of different cheeses (cow, sheep and goat) both locally made and from various parts of the world, accompanied by several choices of fresh baked breads. The sommelier recommended exquisite local wines to accompany our meal choices. Then dessert (oh boy)! We had the chef’s version of creme brûlée: horizontally arranged slices of the custard interspersed with slices of the caramelized sugar (magnifique) and a vertical display of pistachio/apricot rice pudding topped with a clear bubble of blown sugar (like blown glass) (unbelievable). When finished, they served us tiny morsels of sweets with delicate decorations. After the meal Chef Franck Patelat came out to greet us, so we told him personally what a wonderful experience we had. He certainly earned his two Michelin stars! We were totally satisfied when our taxi drove us to the city wall to walk to our hotel. At night the walls are beautifully lighted, and their appearance even more impressive. We walked through the lovely, peaceful Medieval town to our hotel. Nite Nite!
Wednesday, Sept 12
We had a great breakfast in our lovely hotel before setting out to further explore the Medieval Cite’s 2,500 years of history. One can see the layers added by succeeding civilizations, as the base was Gallo-Roman, topped by further fortification when the city was occupied by the Visigoths, Saracens and Franks. The succeeding layers were made of different sized stones, and bricks were used to level the wall between added layers. In the late 12th century the town was thriving as it was inhabited by Cathars (a group related but separated teaching from the main Catholic Church), Jews, and others living harmoniously together. An Inquisition led by the French government at the urging of the Vatican in 1233 made this group in Carcassonne a target. The French victory resulted in the end of the Cathar Church in Languedoc. The French evicted the residents to the other side of the Aude river as a precaution, and it is now the main area of Carcassonne.
There are actually two walls surrounding the Cite, the second enclosure built in the 13th century added security, with the land between the walls used to trap any enemies who might breach the outer wall. There were four gates into the city and numerous round towers with conical roofs. Views from atop the walls were spectacular; no wonder the various inhabitants found security in being able to see who or what was approaching their village. Thanks mainly to the work of Eugene Viollet-le-Duc the city was restored to its 13th century state; this is basically the city that is preserved today. Walking the area between the walls, Warren spotted our friends Ken and Marette! It was a bit of surprise as we knew there were also traveling in France, but it was great to see them and brighten our day! We shared stories of our travels thus far and made a plan to meet again in a few days in Beaune.
We visited St. Nazaire Church, a small stone church used since the 1200’s which is a great example of Romanesque architecture with added Gothic portions. We listened intently as a quartet of a cappella singers touring from Russia sang beautifully as the sound carried throughout the stone building.
For those of who watched this year's Tour de France and caught the stop in Carcassonne, you may have seen the yellow paint on the walls of the Cite. This was done as part of a world wide celebration of the 20th anniversary of Unesco. The work here is called Concentric Circles. In one spot all the paint (actually yellow tape) looks like a bullseye. As you move to different locations you see a the broken circles. Interesting, but as they say beauty is in the eye of the beholder!
We dined at Barbacane, the Hotel’s Michelin Star restaurant. The food was delicious and the surroundings elegant, evoking feelings of Downton Abbey. The meal started in the bar before dinner, as they served us lovely amuse-bouche with our drinks. Greg and Todd shared a large veal chop for two. Warren and Pam both chose the lobster, in a delectable preparation. We rounded out the feast with warm soufflé desserts. Todd and Warren shared a glass of 1997 dessert wine that was terrific with the soufflé that was served from a large glass jug drawn with a long pipette! Quite a show and a great way to end the day. Tomorrow we are off to Les Baux de Provence, visiting Arles along the way.
Brad
2018-09-17
OK, so we want to be with you and eat at every restaurant in Carcassonne! Love you!
Dan
2018-09-18
I'll be fasting for Yom Kippur - might have to hold off on reading any more mouth-watering restaurant reviews. Shelley & I are both savoring every entry & photo. xoxox
Val
2018-09-19
I want to be there too. What an amazing place. Love you