Exploring Budapest

Thursday, June 06, 2019
Budapest, Hungary
Budapest is a large city with 1.8 million residents, comprised of two old cities: Buda and Pest, divided by the Danube River.  It is approximately 20% of the Hungary’s total population. We began the day on the east bank with a guided tour of the Jewish part of Pest, location of the Great Synagogue, the largest in Europe.  Our tour guide, Josef, began the tour with a very evocative sculpture "Shoes on the Danube Bank" comprised of a long row of empty shoes memorializing the approximately 3,500 citizens of Budapest (800 of whom were Jewish) who after removing their shoes were then executed on the banks of the Danube so their bodies would be carried away by the river. The group responsible was a far right Militia that supported Nazis during the occupation. As Josef pointed out, the Nazis had support of some Hungarians during the war. (See the photo).  Sadly, a resurgence in far right groups is demonstrated by the shoes they have removed from the wall.  As Josef noted some people quickly forget history, and hence often repeat it.
Next, we toured the Great Synagogue - a completely unique synagogue as the architecture looks like a Catholic church with pulpits, altar and a grand organ, breaking all the rules of typical Synagouges.  The rabbis found the pulpits useful, giving readings in Yiddish from one and Hungarian in the other.  The organ is recessed so it is technically outside the synagogue, making it acceptable while providing music for the Cantors.  The central courtyard is a garden with several mass graves for the Jews found died in the city after they starved at the end of the war  from neglect and inhumanity bye the Nazi's and the Soviets as they "liberated" the city. The Swedish humanitian Raoul Wallenberg disappear when we went to seek food and aid from the Soviets troops. He never returned and  his death remains a myserty.  The complex includes the "Tree of Life" sculpture - a metal weeping willow with names of lost loved ones on the many leaves.   
After lunch we explored Buda - the west bank of the river.  We walked across the Chain Bridge, admiring the great lion sculptures guarding each end, took the funicular railway to the top of the bluff to the Castle District. An interesting tidbit is that both of these structures were designed by a Scotsman, Adam Clark or in Hungary they say Clark Adam. Also located on the bluff is the St. Mathias Church. We will be describe more details when we return to this area with a tour guide later on our trip. We enjoyed the view and the groups of people enjoying the day: young families out for the afternoon, groups of high school students relaxing but seemingly oblivious to the history and beauty around them, tired backpackers resting in the shade, quite a collection!
On our walk back, we enjoyed the late afternoon view toward the Pest side of the city and the Danube River. After walking almost 6 miles, we were ready for a rest and dinner. We deicided to visited the Four Seasons Hotel in the former Gresham palace for a drink and light dinner on the patio before calling it a day.   
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Comments

Brad Willis
2019-06-09

So wonderful! Thanks for sharing!

Valerie willis
2019-06-09

Sounds delightful. Enjoy❤️

2025-02-10

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