The Drakensberg Mountains, beside their natural beauty, are home to hundreds of painted shelters with thousands individual paintings in them. These were left behind by Bushmen who inhabited the Drakensberg for at least 10000 years. These sites can only be visited with an accredited guide.
In the footsteps of the Bushmen is not the name of a movie or bestselling book, but a guided hike of 7km each way that involves a moderate climb over 250m
. Apart from the Bushmen paintings, the area is filled with interesting birds, animals and plants. One can also enjoy great views of Sani Pass, the Apostles and Giant's Cup that form the rim of the Lesotho boundary.
The hike started at the Sani Pass Hotel's grounds, first crossing a swinging bridge across a river, before climbing steadily up the mountain sides. We passed several varieties of Proteas sometimes growing in close proximity to each other. Up in the sky, the presence of large birds had us debating on their identity - Jackal Buzzards, Bearded Vultures and Cape Vultures being common to the area. A pair of Elands regarded us curiously from above as we passed by on our way to a couple of huge boulders that formed a natural shelter and consequently an excellent choice for a rocky canvas on which the Bushmen applied their red paint.
Our guide, a white male native of Cape Town was not one to hold back on his political views and we had a brisk conversation on several topics of interest - mostly about his dismissive views of certain nationalities, his upbringing in Cape Town during the apartheid era, the prevailing practice of reservations in public institutions in South Africa
. The presence of a dark-skinned Israeli woman - who still thought herself to be white - just sharpened the conversation. Thankfully, none of us believed in sugar coating, resulting in a frank exchange of ideas free of the fear of causing offense.
All this conversation slowed down to a halt when the afternoon thunderstorm approached (just as it did the previous day when we returned from Lesotho). We had come down from the heights through a shorter, steeper path than the one we took going up. When the lightning and thunder started getting closer, the guide suggested that we cross the river at a point close to us rather than walking around a bare hill to get to the swinging bridge, as that route would have a bigger chance of attracting a lightning strike.
First, we went downstream of the river to get a look at a gushing waterfall. Then we put the cameras away as the thunder started to get on our nerves. At the crossing, we took off our shoes and rolled up our trousers to knee level and waded through the river that was flowing, but the current was not strong enough to threaten us
. Three successive lightning strikes within 2 minutes with each getting progressively nearer, froze us in the water as the skies opened up. The river bed was full of small pebbles that hurt our bare feet requiring us to make the crossing quickly. Once we crossed the stream, we realized that there was another arm of the river still left to cross. After that, we still had to walk a muddy path to the Sani Pass Hotel where the guide's car was parked. As we did that, we were pelted with hailstones the size of golf balls. A comfortable stroll in the grass was turned within a half hour into the sort of adrenalin adventure that we had carefully avoided during our time in the Garden Route. Our bare feet were in the way of making a dash for shelter and we had to hop our way back to the car holding our hats over our heads to avoid being hit by the hail.
Footsteps Of The Bushmen
Thursday, March 07, 2013
Sani Pass, KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa
Other Entries
-
151Windhoek
Feb 0827 days priorWindhoek, Namibiaphoto_camera11videocam 0comment 2 -
152Dogs Save Cheetahs!
Feb 0926 days priorOtjiwarongo, Namibiaphoto_camera7videocam 0comment 1 -
153Etosha
Feb 1124 days priorEtosha National Park, Namibiaphoto_camera51videocam 0comment 2 -
154Through The Land of the Damara
Feb 1322 days priorKamanjab, Namibiaphoto_camera23videocam 0comment 5 -
155Dorob National Park
Feb 1421 days priorHentiesbaai, Namibiaphoto_camera14videocam 0comment 1 -
156How Many Is Too Many?
Feb 1421 days priorCape Cross, Namibiaphoto_camera16videocam 0comment 1 -
157Moonscape and Welwitschia
Feb 1619 days priorSwakopmund, Namibiaphoto_camera13videocam 0comment 1 -
158Long-Legged Beauties
Feb 1619 days priorWalvis Bay, Namibiaphoto_camera10videocam 0comment 1 -
159Crossing the Tropic of Capricorn
Feb 1718 days priorSolitaire, Namibiaphoto_camera15videocam 0comment 2 -
160Flaming Dunes of the Namib Desert
Feb 1817 days priorSossusvlei, Namibiaphoto_camera24videocam 0comment 1 -
161Namibia wrap-up
Feb 1916 days priorWindhoek, Namibiaphoto_camera10videocam 0comment 0 -
162Revisiting Cape Town
Feb 2213 days priorCape Town, South Africaphoto_camera15videocam 0comment 1 -
163Cape Peninsula
Feb 2312 days priorCape of Good Hope, South Africaphoto_camera18videocam 0comment 2 -
164Swartberg Pass Loop
Feb 278 days priorOudtshoorn, South Africaphoto_camera14videocam 0comment 2 -
165The Garden Route
Mar 025 days priorKnysna, South Africaphoto_camera18videocam 0comment 2 -
166Rocket Showers On The Wild Coast
Mar 043 days priorBulungula, South Africaphoto_camera24videocam 0comment 1 -
167Kingdom In The Sky
Mar 061 day priorSani Pass, Lesothophoto_camera45videocam 0comment 1 -
168Footsteps Of The Bushmen
Mar 07Sani Pass, South Africaphoto_camera14videocam 0comment 1 -
169Fancy some Bunny Chow?
Mar 092 days laterDurban, South Africaphoto_camera13videocam 0comment 1 -
170Trip Down Memory Lane
Mar 114 days laterPretoria, South Africaphoto_camera13videocam 0comment 1 -
171How the Anglo-Boer War Affected Our Travel Plans
Mar 125 days laterEzulwini, Swazilandphoto_camera14videocam 0comment 1 -
172The Birthplace of Satyagraha
Mar 158 days laterJohannesburg, South Africaphoto_camera25videocam 0comment 3 -
173The Fat Lady Has Sung
Apr 0428 days laterBelmont, United Statesphoto_camera0videocam 0comment 1 -
174A Brief Intermission (Guest Post)
Apr 1034 days laterBelmont, United Statesphoto_camera0videocam 0comment 1
Comments

2025-05-23
Comment code: Ask author if the code is blank
Ramesh
2013-03-31
Photo Photo - Trousers hitched to your knees, muddy feet, hat waving furiously to dodge hailstones - that would have made an award winning picture.
I can well understand the "frank' exchange of views. Hope you let rip !!