After arriving and clearing through Bahamas customs in Spanish Wells on November 14, 2012, and with Bob and Wally still with us, we relocated a short distance away to anchor off The Bluff, Eleuthera. Bob and Wally's flights home were two days away, departing from the North Eleuthera airport, so we had some time to loiter in the north Eleuthera area. There was plenty to explore. After a brief dinghy ride ashore and a stroll around The Bluff settlement, we returned to the boat to grill some pork tenderloin. The better-than-seen description of the settlement in our cruising guides, we concluded, was a bluff...

In the morning of Thursday, November 15 we took advantage of what would be a calm-weather day and relocated to the western shore of Eleuthera, passing through Current Cut with a filling tide, to visit the Glass Window, literally a "hole" through the island at it's thinnest spot. Our plan was to make a day stop at this fascinating land feature, then backtrack a bit to anchor off Lower Bogue, which was just a mile from the North Eleuthera airport and an easy taxi ride for Bob and Wally the next afternoon for their departing flights. The wind had slacked to 10-12 kts from the NE and it was warm and sunny. It turned out to be a really good day.

Bob piloted us through Current Cut and we motored the few miles in the calm conditions to a remarkable sight, the Glass Window, anchoring just a few hundred yards from the formation. At one time the Glass Window was a natural rock bridge through the island limestone, 85 feet above sea level, connecting two sections of Eleuthera at a narrow point less than 100 yards wide. To the east is the rough and cobalt blues of the open Atlantic while to the west lies the usually calm Bight of Eleuthera with its myriad shades of emerald and turquoise.

The two bodies of water are not connected here – there is a low rock ledge that prevents tidal flows – but on rough Atlantic days, as was the case this day, waves can break across the barrier with wash flowing into the Bight. See the pictures. The rock bridge was washed away by a hurricane in 1926 and was finally replaced by a highway bridge in 1960, the north end of which itself got moved amazingly 7 feet westward in in 1991 by a rogue wave spawned by a rage at sea. We took the dinghy ashore to explore close up and walk across the bridge. Amazing.
 
After lunch we had a nice sail with genoa alone the short distance to anchor off Lower Bogue in Rotten Bay. We have no idea how this bay got its name, but it certainly isn't rotten. We took a dinghy ride ashore to explore and to try to connect with a taxi driver to make arrangements for Bob and Wally's trip to the airport the next day. We also hoped to find a restaurant to treat the guys on their final night here. All was accomplished.
  
The town dock was in shambles and officially “closed” as proclaimed by a sign at the base of the dock – facing shore. Of course we didn't know this until already ashore. We learned later that the damage was caused during hurricane Irene in 2011. It was still usable for our purposes and wasn't as bad as others we'd seen.   

On our lap around the settlement we chatted briefly with some locals and got a recommendation for dinner – at the Seven Seas Restaurant – and flagged down a taxi to make the airport appointment. We were the only tourists around. Settling in at the restaurant bar before dinner resulted in cold beers and a big time.  

The locals were friendly and welcoming – what we have come to expect from Bahamians. We had local fare for dinner – grouper and cracked conch with peas and rice and fried plantain. Donna, not fond of fried food, raved that the “fried” grouper was the best fried meal she ever had without even a hint of oil or grease. She talked about this for days afterward. Tired from a full day, we were back on the boat by 1900 so the guys could enjoy a final evening rum together.
  

Sadly, Bob and Wally departed the next day early in the afternoon. As their plane took off, they got a brief glimpse of us sailing southeast to our next destination on the west coast of Eleuthera. As in the previous two years, we were very thankful for their expert assistance and fun company.