After breakfast at the hotel, guide Giulia Marinelli and Luca Benassi driver Simoni call for us at 8:30. We are off to Parmigiano Reggiano producer Caseificio Traversetolese--a thirty minute drive at most. Oh, my. Parmigiano Reggiano being made is a sight to see.
First, the cows (we didn't see them because they stay indoors so they cannot eat the wrong thing) are fed only a strict diet of locally grown grains. They are milked daily and their milk is unpasteurized. That whole milk is promptly skimmed in large shallow tanks, mixed with the naturally skimmed milk from the previous day, drained into deep copper lined vats where the
milk is heated and some becomes curdled.
Those curds are gathered in muslim cloth, they "gel" a bit, are sliced in two and placed into wheel molds and then salted. There are too many steps for me to list here but, suffice to say, this is quite a time and labor consuming process which delivers wheels of cheese to be aged from two to two-and-a-half years. We tasted quite a bit--some with honey and sparkling regional wine. Yummy. Kraft parmesan cheese it ain't. We bought some--it is remarkably good.
Next, we are off to Salumificio Conti, a producer of Prosciutto di Parma. We met the owner, her daughters and grandchildren and watched as the prosciutto is taken from freshly butchered (we did not see that) to finished, salted as a preservative--the only one--and aged to deliciousness. The hogs can only be grown in a finite nearby area. The area for raising the pigs and processing the meat is restricted in that no polluting industries can be near keeping the air, soil and water pristine. No smoking, freezing, etc., as it has to be done as it has for centuries--all natural.
Next lunch at Castello di Torrechiara.
The castle, built around 1450 is amazingly well preserved. Our mission here, however was lunch. Taverna del Castello was just what we needed. Good food, good wine, fine weather, great service and time to relax. The pasta was wonderful.
Last for the day was a stop at Colli di Parma winery, Axienda Agricola Lamoretti.
Proprietor Giovanni Lamoretti personally escorted us through the vineyard and winemaking facilities where he makes, from only his own grapes, 100,000 cases annually--most of it sold locally. They like sparkling wines in this region and we sampled his Malvasia which was reminiscent of a prosecco but not one. His cabernet sauvignon was remarkably good as well. We bought some sparkling Malvasia to enjoy on the balance of our trip.
Back at the hotel, we dropped off our purchases and walked back into town to buy--another purse!
Dinner is at the local Michelin starred Parizzi Ristorante which is but a five minute walk from the hotel. Parizzi is one of 2,187 Michelin one-star restaurants in the world. (There are 970 with two stars and only 112 with one star). Marco Parizzi, the third generation to operate this restaurant at this location, earned one-star status in 2113. His restaurant is special, pleasantly sparse in design, uncrowded, quiet and elegant. The food--we opted for the five-course tasting menus (one sea and one land) with wine pairings and we were well pleased.
Tomorrow, we bid Parma goodbye, recommending it to any who will listen.
We Eat It, They Make It
Tuesday, April 11, 2017
Langhirano, Emilia-Romagna, Italy
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Comments

2025-02-11
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Mandy, aka Black, aka B1
2017-04-12
Thank you for the handbag photo, Paul. Trip looks amazing. THRILLED you two are having such a great time. THRILLED you two found one another.
Cathy Schultz
2017-04-12
Fun!! We've been and loved it also
Chuck Connolly
2017-04-12
Maitre Fromager....that's you! Love your Ruby headgear. Great stuff ... Enjoy ....double wish we were there!
Cherry Norris
2017-04-12
Yum! This looks amazing! So enjoying wining, dining and shopping for purses with you vicariously! Looks like a great trip. Thanks for sharing. Love to you both! Ciao!
James Landrum
2017-04-13
This was a great entry! We have to put this on our list of places to visit for sure.