Its a good long drive from Parma to Bellagio, at least by Italian standards. We leave Parma at nine and are in the lobby of the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni by 11:30am. The last few miles are fun--as long as Simoni is driving, which he is. The road twists and turns and is as narrow as a fashionable tie. Only once did we have to come to a full stop so that our mirror did not kiss the mirror of the vehicle headed the other way.

At the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni we have booked a deluxe double room, Lake Como view. On the map, Lake Como forms an upside down Y. Bellagio sits at the saddle of the Y with views of the Alps. The Romans were here before us at around 225BC. Our hotel opened in 1872; adding the new fangled electricity 16 years later. 200 people live in the village; there are 900 hotel rooms. 

Ours is 110. It is one of the few with a tiny balcony; we overlook the main entrance to the hotel and the Lamborghini parked next to the Bentley. We arrive in a Mercedes so, up to now, we are passing.

Roberto, concierge extraordinaire, is a fountain of information. Yes, of course, B4 will have a massage and a facial. Yes, of course, we would like a reference or two or three for restaurants nearby. Yes, of course, we would like an ice bucket for the Lamoretti Malvasia we brought from yesterday's winery. Yes, of course, we would like a power strip so that we can plug in all of our typical Americans' electronic devices and, yes, of course we would love to enjoy the free WiFi. Breakfast is from 7:30 until 10:30; Paulo will show you where it is whilst we whisk your baggages to your suite. 

It's nice here.

Our first choice for lunch is his favorite: La Punta, a ten minute walk. It is lovely but once we are seated at a lovely waterfront table, the baby two tables behind B4 begins to wail. His call was answered by the toddler two tables behind me. From the far end of the patio another member of the new age tribe answered. We excused ourselves and went to restaurant choice number two: Trattoria San Giacomo. A bit of pasta and some lake trout washed down by some prosecco and house red erased the decibel war at La Punta from our minds. We will try it again after bedtime.

The third recommended spot, Bilalus, is right across the street from S. Giacomo and it seems perfect for another day.

We stroll back to the hotel in perfect weather, uncrowded streets with beckoning shops each more beckoning than the last. We look at purses and glasses frames, two passions of the woman about whom I am passionate.

After responding to a fleet of emails, a catnap at the room prepares B4 for her massage. I will walk. As I head through the small central town, I pass by the water taxi stands--there are two competitors there. I am trying to arrange transport for Friday to Cernobbio and our next hotel, the Hotel D'Este with a stop on island Locanda Dell' Isola Comancina for lunch. Could be difficult; I'm working on it. Then it's up the hill, around a few corners, up another hill...all the while keeping tight to the rock walls when there is no pedestrian/cyclist lane (which is often.)

Back at the hotel, B4 is not back just yet so I decide to pass the time by uncorking the Lamoretti Malvasia which has been on ice since noon. Tasty.

She returns well massaged and we have about a couple of hours before sunset and dinner time. The email monster grabs her while I shower and then we are off to try again at La Punta.

At eight, there are no age deprived patrons so it is as we like it; intimate, quiet and reserved. We take our concierge' recommendation and order the lavorosa--a lake como fish. It is just OK. But the pasta that preceded it was wonderful. Also, the wine and the prosecco.

The walk home was chilly but we kept a brisk pace. A warm Bellagio bed beckons.