Ursalunch

Thursday, April 13, 2017
Isola Comacina, Lombardy, Italy
Our breakfast in the massive dining room is quite nice. How could it not be in surroundings such as these? The hotel has more than its share of amenities, all designed to make the guest feel welcome and well satisfied. One need not be thirsty, as an example.

Our dear friend and guide to all things elegant and Italian, Ursula Terrasi, purveyor of only the finest of sheets at her Kansas City Plaza shop, Terrasi Living, when learning of our trip to Parma, insisted that we make our way to Bellagio and then, most importante, devising a way to visit Locanda dell/Isola Comacina to meet Venvenuto "l'Oste della Locanda."

I find Australian Jeannine, along with her Italian husband Luca, who run a lake water taxi company. I arrange a trip for us. Along the way in her beautiful boat, we are enchanted by the beautiful surroundings, both natural and man made.  

 After a twenty-minute boat taxi ride from the center of Bellagio on a southeasterly course. Jennine supervised new-hire Venitian Luca (not her husband Luca but another Luca) as he piloted us on the 30 minute journey. On the mirror smooth waters of Lake Como with abundant sunshine and 70 degree pristine air, we landed around the corner of the island from the ferry dock and walked up the ancient mossy stairs trod by Conrad Adenaur, Kim Novak and George Clooney (photos prove it to be true and accurate).

Here, proprietor Benevenuto Puricelli, born on the mainland of Sala Comacina, the village just across the water from the island of Comacina, serves luncheon extraordinare and learned and now performs the fire ritual that the English writer, Francis Dale, suggested to his predecessor. The ritual would, it is told, undo the mysterious curse cast upon the island by Vidulfo, Bishop of Como, in 1169. It seems to be working.

I know not of any of this. What I know is that Ursula was correct. Lunch here is not to be missed. Serenaded by church bells from across the channel, Locanda Dell’Isola Restorante delivers an enchanting experience, lively repartee and scrumptious cuisine.

Our multi-course feast began at 1:30 served by Benvenuto himself (and an able assistant) for what began as a private lunch on his vast terrace overlooking paradise. (To be fair, an artist from Bruge and his quite younger paramour arrived later and sat nearby.)

Here is the menu for our pre fixe luncheon (unchanged since 1947):

First Course – Antipasto All’Isolana: a slice of tomato with a slice of lemon on top, salt, extra virgin olive oil, peanuts oil and oregano. Following this we serve 8 different fresh vegetables: celery, carrots, baked onions, sweet peppers, courgettes, beans, cauliflower and beetroot. (our favorite? The amazing baked onion) On a separate plate we serve Prosciutto Tipo Praga (ham cooked in a steamer and lightly smoked in a wood-oven) and Bresaola della Valtellina, air-dried beef that is additionally aged in our cellar.

Second Course – Trota Alla Contrabbandiera: Fresh salmon trout grilled on a wood grill. (we visited the kitchen and this grill is wood and charcoal fired). The trout is served boned and dressed with salt, lemon, extra virgin olive oil, peanuts oil and pepper.

Third Course – Rottami di Pollo in Padella: A high quality chicken, opened, crushed, fried in an iron pot with peanut oil and then put in the wood oven. This is served with salad.

Fourth Course – Grana All’Escavadora: Famous Parmigiano Reggiano, cut out of the middle of the form and given into the hand of the client to provide great emotional impact.

Fifth Course – Sliced oranges, served with a delicious homemade ice cream called “fior di vaniglia”.

Bread – Finishing Touch: Caffe All’uso delle Canaglie in Armi: It is a tradition that at the sound of the bell the host enters into the room and burns brandy in the “pot” and tells the history of the Island. Then sugar and coffee are added to the brandy before being served.

Wine – The white D.O.C. wine which is served with the meal is included in the prince (sic) of the menu.

The price per person, including wine, water, cover charge, tax is: €75.00. (about $80.00 US.)

Having no sense of self-control whatsoever, we ate it all. We have an eating plan for next week and several months hence and it involves water, celery and not much else. To burn off a calorie or two, B4 responds to a few thousand emails.

After a stroll around the island, we grab the Ferry back to Bellagio. For €5.50 each, we stop in Lezzeno, Lenno and Cadenabbia enroute home. It is very pleasant and, I am reasonably certain about this, B4 did not nap.

Back at our hotel, beyond a beautiful sitting room, we pass by the JFK suite en route to our own. It is marked with this plaque:

“This suite is part of the original 19th century Villa, with high ceilings and frescoes. The uniqueness of this suite are the two pillars in the bedroom. The large window and balcony with stunning view on the lake make this suite one of the most requested accommodation since the Villa was opened as an hotel. In fact, famous guests like Queen Marie of Romania, Grand Duchess Catherine of Russia, King Farouk of Egypt, President Delano Roosevelt, and many others have enjoyed this suite during their stay on Lake Como. The suite was later dedicated to the President J. F. Kennedy, who stayed in this suite during his visit in Italy in June 1963.

As soon as we depart, I fully expect Villa Serbelloni to place a plaque on the door of Suite 110 which will read: "Here B4 once stayed along with an unidentified gentleman."

It is 7:00pm as I write this. We will most likely skip dinner.
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Comments

Liz Chatelain
2017-04-13

OMG

James Landrum
2017-04-14

Sounds and looks like an amazing day! Definitely another great meal!

Amy Gulinson
2017-04-14

Paul u love how you love your bride! Italy will always be one of my most favorite places as our daughter, Ella Louise was conceived in Florence!!! Enjoy! We must make time to catch up. Even if it is just when you are passing through Chicago! Xo

Janice Brady Hansen
2017-04-19

So happy for you guys. Live life to its fullest.

2025-02-11

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