Sailing to Napier from Tauranga we received a going away party worthy of a Queen.
This was the ship’s maiden call for both Tauranga and Napier and the Taurangans did it up well as did the Diamond Princess
which was berthed at our stern. Ship’s whistles sounded long and many blasts and much shouting and waving ensued.
Bathers waived, flyers flew, swimmers and boaters and hikers bid us farewell. It was quite moving.
Dinner with Gira and Mark and Keith is lively and fun but I must say that while as much as I am enjoying myself at our Britannia evening meal I miss dinner partners Beth and Keith from our Los Angeles to Auckland leg. They are happily bouncing grandchildren on their lap by now. Keith was a lookalike for Sam Waterston of ‘Law and Order’ fame and Beth perfectly performed the role of his beautiful assistant DA. Since Judge Joe and Attorney Susan were often missing from our six top, our four way conversations were full of observations about the world, the ship and the meal; we agreed on most subjects.
It is a heavily overcast Friday in Napier, a city of only 50,000 on the east coast of the North Island of beautiful New Zealand. All night we have rocked and rolled to get here and this morning the wind has Queen Elizabeth in a consistent posture of a starboard list. My coffee cup is a quarter inch more full on one side as I settle in for breakfast. But, within fifteen minutes the weather changes and our ride becomes calm and steady.
A couple from Auckland sit next to us at breakfast and give us the lay of the land for Napier where they will visit old friends on this day. The Kiwi accent is charming. Yes is pronounced “Yis,” deck is “Dick”. New Zealanders are isolated people who are used to not being crowded by their fellow human beings indoors or out.
We dock not until 9:30 which is late for a port call. Logs abound at the pier; lumber and lumber products are major export items.
A strong earthquake (7.8) leveled Napier back in 1931 and from that rubble rose the Art Deco Napier of today. Central city is full of buildings that harken back and charm at the same time.
Today, eerily, marks the two-year anniversary of the devastating Christchurch quake which kept us from visiting that port on this trip.
I read of Hawke’s Bay Museum and Art Gallery and its splendid exhibits about the quake, the art of the local Ngati Kahungunu Maori people and the Art Deco reconstruction of this place but later learn it is closed for redevelopment. One wonders why the Daily Programme would tout a closed attraction. This way we know what we missed.
The port here is more for container ships than cruise ships and we must take a shuttle from the gangway to center city. From there, maps list multiple walks ranging from around town to the Bluff Hill Walk which climbs about 350 along its 2.75 mile length. We opt for a stroll around town stopping for a latte and wifi.
You can see Te Mata Peak from here.
According to Maori legend, Te Mata O Rongokako fell in love with the Heretaunga chief’s beautiful daughter. To win her hand, she set for him tasks to be completed; among them was that he had to eat his way through a nearby hill. (The Maori people are beautiful but also very large) It is said that he choked on a large “indigestible” rock and dropped dead thereby forming this Peak. We are not sure if this is a true story.
Hawke’s Bay is nearby meaning that grapes are rife here. Fifty-five wineries make Hawke’s Bay home and five are very close by.
After looking for a taxi to hire and finding absolutely none, we book with Black Rose and take a coach for the afternoon. First stop is Askerne Winery followed by a drive up the winding road to the top of Te Mata Peak. Craggy Range Winery lies below this sheer drop where the locals jump off with their paraglider chutes strapped to their backs. None are here today. Our driver, Ashley (call me Ash) is a retired paramedic and he describes various rescues he has made.
Askerne makes a prodigious selection of wines and we taste them all opting to purchase only one, a dessert variety cabernet which is harsh before your chocolate but sublime after.
The countryside is beautiful and there is almost no flat terrain.
Homes, many of them spectacular, dot the hillsides offering their owners spectacular views. Roads are narrow and winding and I am happy that on this trip I am not driving.
We stopped at the Strawberry Patch outdoor market in Havelock North and loved the fresh fruit and vegetables on display.
It was difficult but we, alone on our small coach, avoided the ice cream. Damn. Next and last we stopped at the Chocolate Factory. After a quick purchase we were back on the coach to go back to Napier to go back to Queen Elizabeth to go back to sea. Who says you can’t go back?
I long for news. Cunard, in its wisdom, has four “all news” channels. BBC and Sky deliver world and British news. U.S. news is left to MSNBC and FOX. Since neither carry much news (so that they can have more time for opinion), I am uninformed about the weather in St. Louis and Kansas City, the explosion at JJ’s (except for headline coverage on the BBC) or much else except for “Obama is a genius” on MSNBC and “Obama is an idiot” on FOX. Personally, I believe that Obama is neither, but then, I am neither O’Reilly nor Maddow. I sure miss Jon Stewart to tell me what the truth really is.
(Gloria here…there isn’t really much to add today. Paul and I don’t have differing perspectives on our visit to Napier. I loved the art deco aspect of it, and for the tourists the locals dress up in art deco clothing,, drive vintage cars and sing on the streets differing kinds of music.
My favorite, “ I only have eyes for you” a great rendition that was only missing the megaphone of Rudy Vallee. (look him up youngsters, he was popular as can be). The men singing wore spats, hats and bow ties.
I’ve discovered that New Zealand has fabulous coffee. Either it’s the tastiest I’ve ever had or I dislike the coffee onboard QE so much that anyone else’s taste like ambrosia. I am jet propelled on port days to go ashore, grab a coffee, free wifi and catch up with my babies. Heaven. It’s interesting that there was a touch of trepidation when anticipating this voyage, wondering whether this many days on a ship might be become too restrictive. I find that while we love port days, they also seem to interrupt the lovely routine we’ve developed onboard. I’ve never understood how someone could stay on a ship long enough to do a world cruise, now I get it. The fact that Kansas City is suffering a really bad snow storm today, airport closed, schools closed, highways closed and we are commenting on the fact that we had to take jackets ashore today since it was only in the 60’s is decadent and lucky for us. Sorry for all my friends that are “stuck”. One of the “stuck’ is Bill who is in Kansas City on business. No flying home today. Hopefully he is snug and warm on Norwood St , with all the fires lit, and drinking something adult and delicious. For having nothing to add today, I seem to have written quite a bit, I shall turn it back to Mr. Russell.)
Certainly, I know better than to try to have the last word. So, I’ll say nothing. At all.
Nape, Napier, Napiest
Friday, February 22, 2013
Napier, North Island, New Zealand
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