Italy - oh so Italian . . . .

Monday, August 25, 2014
Florence, Pisa, Lucca, Deiva Marina, Albenga, Italian Riviera, Italy
When last we posted we were at the end of our Alps and Dolomites sojourn - more like a quickie stay actually. So now commences the Medici Italy portion. Like them or not, the Medicis and their successors appear to have many-handedly created Northern Italian tourism. Boy, they did a lot of stuff, and where better to start looking at their contribution but here in Florence/Firenze. 
But wait, first a reflection: We're sure this has never occurred to anyone before i .e. if you step away from the tourist heart of any city, prices drop dramatically. Yes, that's gospel! Today for example we walked about 100m from the main tourist tracks and found a little coffee/bakery shop. Sitting outside watching the world go by we ordered a double espresso (Peter) and a double shot cafe latte for Kathy, plus croissant. And had to check the bill to confirm that we'd indeed been charged correctly - 4.50 euros. Yesterday, for exactly the same order we were slugged with 11 euros. So, for the arithmetically challenged, we saved 6.50 euros by walking 100m! 
Now, that you've recovered from that item of stunning insight, read on about Florence. This is another heck of a place. So much to see and do and only three days . . . but we did a lot. The weather was benign - sunny with around 27C tops. Travel and sightseeing was facilitated by buying the Firenze Card, a whopping 180 euros for both of us but it covered the three days, all travel, and all entrance charges. Actually we worked out that we just broke even in terms of spending but the big advantage was the convenience . And, the ability to saunter in via the Priority Line. You sort of feel like you're sitting in Business Class watching the herd crush into the back. Not that we ever do that, let us hasten to add. We've bought similar cards in all the major centres and that has always been the case. 
The Duomo we well and truly 'did' in all ways including the climb to the top of the dome. We were told this was the best view of Florence short of hiring a helicopter. Inside and out it was stunning. The striking thing about all the basilicas and chapels we saw, was how restrained they were. Guess the gaudy baroque crowd did not get their way. The upshot is that one actually feels like there could be a spiritual presence in them. Absolutely magnifico. Our second 'big one' was the Pitti Palace. In the end we spent a full day viewing the museums, the royal apartments and the magnificent gardens. Much of that was taken up with simply looking and wondering. Trying to read all the explanations is just a waste of time. As is the continuous taking of photos . To sum up, if your'e in Firenze, don't miss the Pitti! The third big one was the Uffizi Gallery. One of the oldest and best art galleries in Europe. Just the setting is wonderful. Take all the paintings and statuary out and put them in a modern setting and it would just not be the same. It's all about the building, what it's seen and how it developed that is the key to its beauty. And, here's another thing, we're deep into August and there are crowds milling about the piazzas but the museums and galleries never seem overcrowded. Sadly, the library in the Uffizzi was closed during our visit. Kathy had the pleasure of visiting this library in the winter of 1997 and was the only person in the building. The final 'biggie' was the Palazzo Vecchio, dating from the 14th century. The Palazzo has seen the rise and fall of the Florentine Republic, the reign of the Medicis and, even now, a part of it is still used by the Municipality. 
That was a loooong paragraph about our visit to Firenze, but wait there's more . . . walking the street and alleys, strolling around the piazzas, poking our heads into other minor churches and galleries that at any other time would knock your socks off, was a joy. Add to that decent coffee, friendly people and our catch up with a couple of lovely Australian ladies (of similar vintage) who after years of caravanning with husbands (now 'late') have been talking about doing exactly what we're busy with. Gee, we love doing this!!! Tomorrow we're off to Pisa and, at the suggestion of Peter and Sheila, Lucca. 
As we write this, we're preparing to leave Camping Village Torre Pendente for Camping La Sfinge - Deiva Marina tomorrow morning. Can't wait to tell you though about today's achievement . . . today we travelled on a real Italian train. Real, because at long last, we've caught public transport that was late - a full 22 minutes! Up to now, there seems to have been a conspiracy against us experiencing real Italian travel. Mind you, it's been pretty convenient having everything on time. So what have we been doing? First off we spent an afternoon and evening in Pisa . The Tower, Cathedral/Duomo, Museum complex in the form of a very large piazza was as wonderful as everyone has predicted. What a stunning building the Tower is! Akin to a gigantic white sculpture set in a swathe of green grass. Photo of the day, however, would have been the one of all the photographers taking shots of people pretending they're holding the building up. We say, would, because we completely overlooked doing so. Too busy gazing on in awe. Well, that was that for Pisa. Our meal at a local restaurant was OK, nothing to write home about. Basically what we saw of the rest of Pisa was not inspiring (that's being kind actually). 
But, next day was our train trip to Lucca. And the whole town was non-stop engaging (thanks for the 'heads up', Peter and Sheila). The sights were awesome. One of the highlights was the archeological dig underneath the Santa Reparata (Lucca's old cathedral). But so was everything else we saw including the 'new' cathedral, and the fabulous museum. The restaurants we ate at, were exceptionally clean, and, the food was yummy . Peter even managed to get an Italian haircut. Can't stop staring at himself in the mirror now. . What is it about smaller towns that makes them seem far more personable? Trento was the same. And Chester, Harlingen etc. 
We decided to break what was going to be a long drive to our next stop (Albenga). The idea was one or two nights at Camping La Sfinge - Deiva Marina. Leaving the autostrada we wended our way down a loooong hill! Stunning scenery and all in all we were feeling pretty good. But complaisance should never be allowed to set in . . . . It all started with Peter turning down a road that seemed to lead to the campsite. Half way down a steep hill we realised we were in a spot of bother! Cars parked on either side and nowhere to turn. At the end of the road was a clearing, again with cars parked haphazardly - north, south, east and west! But, there seemed to be a chance, albeit slight, of being able to turn Le Van around. So, with Kathy outside directing proceedings and Peter sweating grams (he can't afford kilograms) and no less than a dozen tiny turns we were able to drive out, heaving sighs of relief . And looking forward to relaxing at Camping La Sfinge (OK, but not up to the standard we've been spoilt with thus far) . . . Anyway we stayed two nights so we could just chill out. Took the bus down to Deiva Marina - a picturesque little beachside town. Marvelled at beach umbrellas as far as the eye could see. Tucked into coffees and ice creams, and generally - relaxed! Next stop Albenga!
The drive to our present (and last in Italy) campsite was interesting to say the least. A high speed autostrada winding its way around and through hillside after hillside as the mountains come down to the sea. Tunnel after tunnel, some short and some long enough for Le GPS to lose control for two or three minutes - a problem if your'e nearing a critical junction. Couple that with an almighty storm while the freeway was wending through Genova (Genoa) and the Italian penchant for high speed driving, helped make the trip, well, exciting! The trip improved enormously when we exited the line of thunderstorms into brilliant sunshine and the blue Mediterranean on our left side
Our campsite here in Albenga was chosen because it's under Dutch management, and it shows. It's clean, neat and controlled. The pitches, however, are pretty tight and some of the vans that arrived were bigggg! One even took out the preventer stay for our awning. Stretched the spring from 100 to 500mm and bent the heavy metal stake. Lucky for us the spring took all the punishment and our awning came away unscathed. 
We spent the day in Albenga yesterday, sauntering around the alleys and also walking to the beaches. The old town in Albenga is unique in that the 'new' town was built on the same pattern as the old Roman roads and buildings. In fact much of the new town (built between 100 and 500 years ago) is sited on the old foundations and even columns that were in place. So, what they're doing now is uncovering these arches and columns for people to see. The fact that they're still part of working buildings means they still have a useful life. Quite wonderful. Made the mistake of walking in and sitting down in one of the churches at 11 .45. Mistake because at 12 on the dot we were ushered out for siesta ("you can come back at 3"). Remember this - plan for Sundays, particularly when visiting small towns and villages. Many attractions are closed full stop and the rest close till mid afternoon. Anyway that's when we made our way along a shady avenue to the beach - and were confronted by the sight of innumerable beach umbrellas almost down to the water's edge (very little tidal change here). Makes a pretty sight. A number of yachts were sailing both ways on coastal trips, and all was at peace in the world - particularly when we were eating our ice creams. 
We've met a super couple here (one of only a very few GB number plated vans we've encountered in the last two months) and yesterday's beer o'clock turned into supper as well when a large pizza arrived. By way of explanation we would mention that 'large' means super-gigantic. Anyway, Sheila and David have given us some great advice for the next legs i.e. Aix-en-Provence, Carcassonne, and Barcelona. 
Well, that's it everyone (almost used "folks" but loathe the overuse of that word) for Italy. On our way to Aix we are hoping to stop for a few hours somewhere on the Riviera; Cagnes-sur-mar or Antibes. In reality wherever we can get parking for our 6.5m Le Van. 
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Comments

Alex Warner
2014-08-25

Awesome!!!!!

Nar
2014-08-26

You'll notice a stark change in my complexion since you last saw me.........it's now bright green!

Anne Day
2014-08-26

I agree just awesome!!!!!!!

Joan McMurray
2014-08-26

The Alps you should've left me there. But never mind still getting my head around squat toilets and would really like to know how this works. No detail on blog though!!!! (lol)
Don't forget "selfie" with the Pope!!!!!
All that history ... incredible.
Pics beautiful, history wonderful. Thank you I'm enjoying my armchair journey very much.
I can definitely see Cathy in love with Le Van (ha, ha). It's got a REAL toilet, so would I be, squatting uh uh, never ever. Love Joan

Joan McMurray
2014-08-26

Mistake because at 12 on the dot we were ushered out for siesta ("you can come back at 3") Ohmigosh. Love Joan

Smishy
2014-08-26

Wow! Wot a fabulous holiday and still ongoing. Keep enjoying and sending lotsa love. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Sheila & Peter
2014-08-27

Each time we read you we decide on a different place for our "next time", you have us inspired! Whatever happens do not miss Carcassonne (it's just a few kilometres from our canal boat pick-up point) and we loved it, just didn't get enough time there. Barcelona and Gaudi go hand-in-hand, again we didn't have enough time there, but then you never have enough time anywhere in Europe. You'll have to live to be at least 100, just to have time to enjoy the memories you are making! Yes, we too are a pale shade of green! Enjoy every single moment - Lotsa love, Sheila and Peter

2025-02-16

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