Isle de Rey, Carnac, Le Poldu, the Centre

Thursday, September 11, 2014
Isle de Rey, Carnac, Le Poldu, Chartres , Centre, France
After our last, over-length post, we've decided to do shorter ones both for our sakes and yours. A long post is a lot of work, and reading it, well, we don't blame you if you gave up!
We drove from Bordeaux via La Rochelle to our latest campsite, Camping Les Varennes, on the Isle de Rey . Quiet and very clean, it's just a couple of hundred metres from a fine sandy beach. With the current warm weather, said beach was quite crowded this afternoon. Tomorrow we visit the local market in the local town . . . 
. . . . and the market in La Bois Plage en Re was terrific. Think Byron Bay Markets but in French, with prices at least 50% lower than the 'hip' towns and you'll know what we mean (our apology to all non-Aussies because you won't have a clue what we're talking about). This market was all French. Nothing from the far, middle or near East. Zip from from the US or UK and, it seems, anywhere else. That's more like it! After a wonderful morning 'shopping' we trekked back to Le Van and a quiet afternoon which included our compulsory swim (heated pool, by the way). Tomorrow, we're off to Carnac in Britanny to catch up with old friends, Patrick and Veronique (P&V), and see what this region is all about.
 
This part is being written as we prepare to leave the Carnac area after three wonderful nights and days . But first we have to insert a reflection . . .
 . . . We've just realised what makes a trip like ours complete are the people we meet and share with, particularly when those people are already old friends or friends of friends: Peter and Sheila, and, Ann and Martin in the UK, and now Patrick and Veronique in Carnac. In all cases we can say honestly that these have been the best days of all - among the plethora of amazing days we've already experienced. And, of course, there are the people we've met along the way and hope to catch up with again someday; Graham and Annette, and, David and Sheila, spring to mind. 
OK, back to our Carnac visit. We stayed in what has been, so far, the very best campsite of all, Camping de la Plage near the beautiful little town of La Trinite-sur-Mer. Right on the beach, spacious neat pitches with water and drains, clinically clean facilities, and, a heated swimming pool. We've had it all! P& V first of all spent the afternoon with us, putting quite a few kilometres on their Focus . Dinner at their lovely home followed, and then they met us again the next day for a tour of the local area.
 
This region, around Carnac, is beautiful. Of course the great weather has smiled on us once again. Even so, every little town here is a seaside village with a thriving marina and happy, smiling inhabitants - and why wouldn't they? Actually, it's also historic and we mean really historic. Around Carnac is the largest collection of megalithic (large stone) monuments in the world. These date back to 4 - 3,000 BC. They cover acres and acres of land around here. But the real attraction is the water. There are so many inlets and coves and islands you could boat here for many years before getting to know it really well. Thank you, Patrick and Veronique.
 
OK. Mini-disaster Uno! We set off for Crozon on the West Coast to see "wild Britanny". About half an hour short of our destination, Peter pulled off into a lay-by so we could have coffee and croissants. Then he decides to turn Le Van around so we'd be facing in the right direction . Big Mistake! Reversing into a soft bush as one usually does, Le Van picked up a fairly robust twig, that turned out to be a small branch, which when he went forward again, almost pulled the rear bumper off. Although the lights were still working OK, there was no way we could continue. So, doing his yachtie thing, he tied the bumper to the rear ladder so it was still more or less in place and we retraced our tracks back to the local Rapido dealer. Unfortunately the earliest they could repair the thing was two days hence.
  
But, with every cloud there is a silver lining. After making arrangements for the repair job we left for a nearby campsite on the coast. Camping Les Bruns is at Le Pouldu, just over the river from L'Orient. It happens that this campsite is the first five star we've stayed at and it deserves that label. We probably would not look at it in high season but the cost of around A$25 a night seemed pretty reasonable to us. But, that's not the silver lining (just means we're pretty comfortable). The area around here is absolutely lovely and our coastal walk to the little port up the river confirmed that . A photo op around every curve. Including a "shipping news" house perched on the end of a headland ("shipping news" refers to the book by Annie Proulx). 
Oh, and talking of a silver lining, here's a little more . . . we met not just one, but two fabulous couples that became instant friends over numerous mini-conversations and an evening get together that raged on until Peter the Pooper said he'd had enough. That was at 9.15 and getting close to his bedtime! At least he's consistent. So, added to our address list are Alice and Chris, and, Anthea and Michael. All of us retired and wondering how we ever found the time to work. We're currently looking at ways of catching up with each of them when we're in the UK South. 
Well, Le Van's le bumper has been repaired and we've set off on our journey again. Time has meant that we've forsaken the West and North Britanny coasts and are heading, instead, down the middle . . . . direction Paris. 
 
Currently (reminder: currently and similar words mean "when this post was typed") we're staying in a smallish campsite, Camping La Vallee du Ninian, near the village of Taupont . This is just an overnight stop on our way East but we're glad we did not push on because it's another little gem! Wonderfully clean and orderly and apart from 4/5 other vans or caravans, empty. That's what happens towards end of season. Weather is still holding up . . we've had showers on and off most of the day but this afternoon we had a swim and at present (7PM) the sun is still smiling upon us. 

The French regions are confusing! We're not sure which one we're in now, although we do know that Paris is in the centre. Anyway we're staying at yet another delightfully situated campsite next to the town of Ambrieres-les-Vallees, Camping le Parc de Vaux. Now, that's a mouthful. We're sure that the French do not go through all that when explaining where they've been. Facilities are dated but what is lovely is that it's on the banks of the River Mayenne and borders a nature park. And, we're one of only a handful of residents albeit for only one night. And the drive here?? Magnificent!! Our paltry words can in no way describe the beauty of the rolling hills and valleys alongside the long and winding road we travelled today . Mile after mile of green pastures and fields separated by squiggly lines of trees, hedgerows and shrubs. And every few kilometres we passed through a small village or townlet to be greeted by still stunning gardens in full bloom - the wonder is that it's already after mid September. And another thing - the incredible number of greens that exist in nature. Remember: you only see this once you leave the freeways! Boring, aren't we?

This evening's entry is the last for this post and finds us at the end of our stay at Camping Les Bords de L'Eure, Chartres. Unfortunately after a lovely warm afternoon, today it has rained. By the way, we're sick of all the rain. This is the third day of rain we've had on this trip . . . where is the sun? Well, it is peeking out at the moment and Paris for the next five days is looking cool but sunny. But what about Chartres? We were fortunate in picking Saturday night as the finale of their annual light show (Sydney-siders can think "Vivid") and it was spectacular . After an afternoon nap and early pasta we walked the banks of the Eure River to the city centre - the Notre Dame. Walking around we marvelled at the medieval architecture that is seemingly everywhere. The light show which started at 9 pm was absolutely stunning, awesome . . . add superlatives. The weather was kind - balmy in fact. And the crowds were happy and excited and, well, festive! Although the show went on to 1 AM we were tucked up in bed by 11. There's a limit to Peter's capacity for raging! Good thing we were . . . it started to bucket down at midnight. So today found us walking in the rain (light) into the centre to see Chartres in daylight. Overall opinion - should be on a bucket list for all visitors to France. There!
P.S. We're not really whinging about the rain. We've had the most superb weather so far. 
P.P.S. Can't help telling you about the Lidl chain stores that are all over Europe. So, we've played our lidl word games. Something like this:
Kathy: "Look there's a Lidl store"
Peter: "Is it a large Lidl or a lidl lidl?"
Kathy: "No, it's a middle lidl".
Then Le Van gets into the act, rocking along the road with all merry inside.



 
 
Other Entries

Comments

Prue
2014-09-22

Get home here you two and write a book - you will make your fortune and then you can Le Van it all over the world year after year! I so enjoy reading your blog, but I end up in a great puddle of admiration, wonder and envy, which is a bit messy. Do you think you could do me a favour and have a few bad days just to help me out, as I am thinking of selling our apartment, raiding the bank and buying a one way ticket? xx

Bruce and Kathy
2014-09-22

Great to see you still able to enjoy the weather.
Keep having fun

Mark
2014-09-23

Have really enjoyed following your adventures, you two. We missed Chartres on our trips & glad that you were able to experience it's beauty, Enjoy your time Paris. Do you have San Chapelle cathedral on your list on Ilse de Citi?

Joan McMurray
2014-09-23

Hi travellers this is all sooooo romantic. But seems you are having a romantic time of it as well. Glad you've finally seen sunshine after a few days rain. Could so with some rain here in Joeys dry as the proverbial bone and looking like a raisin. Lots luvvies Joan. Enjoy! Enjoy! Enjoy!

Nar
2014-09-28

I have a plan........leasing a little Citroen or similar and tailgating you all around Europe next year. Try stopping me!

Alice and Chris
2014-09-29

How informative you guys are! We think that everywhere in France is so beautiful and the places you've mentioned here we haven't visited (other than Les Embruns of course oh, and Chartres - we went there on our honeymoon - DOH - how could I forget it. I do remember the bottle of champagne we drank to celebrate our honeymoon). We'll make a note of the sites for next year and have a lookie cookie. We so hope we'll see you in October. Let us know when you're free. With love xx

2025-02-10

Comment code: Ask author if the code is blank