This morning we walked to the train station along the river to meet the famous local walking tour guide Hajime Hirooka (a.k.a. Johnnie Hillwalker). Before the tour started we had some amazingly good sandwiches at an underground mall near the train station. Then we walked to the first meeting place. There was a number of people there already, including 83-year old Hirooka-san, who has been leading the tour for the last 19 years.
First stop of the tour was a Buddhist temple called Higashi-Hongan-ji
. One of the main halls (one housing the Buddha statue) is currently under renovation as well as the main gate, but we took our shoes off and walked through the second main hall: Founder's Hall. Hirooka-san explained that this temple is very important to a lot of regular people of Japan, because it is the founding place of Shin Buddhism, which pretty much promises that everyone is going to heaven no matter who they are. This particular sect of Buddhism is the most widespread in Japan and is practised by 20% of the population.
After leaving the temple, we followed the guide through some narrow winding streets and peeked inside of a fan workshop (part of a store called Kyosendo). Apparently all fans in Japan are made by hand by artisans in Kyoto. Family businesses are built on making parts for fans, prayer beads, house altars, etc. Across from the fan shop there was a small tofu-making store. We also passed by a place that assembles house altars (used to honour dead relatives) and another one that makes paper lanterns. These small home-based businesses are said to be the main industry of Kyoto, but their numbers are declining as young people refuse to take up their parent's craft and move out to find jobs at big companies. Some houses in Kyoto stay empty, apparently.
Hirooka-san showed us a small local Buddhist temple, where a priest that serves the neighbourhood works
. Right near that temple was a local Shinto shrine that specializes in increasing worshippers' brain power. The two religions get along really well in Japan as their roles are clearly separated and there never was any power struggle between them. As the guide explained, Shinto (the indigenous religion of Japan) gods and spirits are not interested in dead people, while Buddhas are not interested in the living ones. So, the Japanese turn to Shinto gods and spirits for luck, success in business, good health and for wedding and birth rituals, while they ask Buddha to take care of the dead. Enormous pantheon of old gods and spirits of Shinto had no problem with accepting another one (Buddha) into their circle, when Buddhism was introduced to Japan from China 1400 years ago. Buddhism is also a very accepting religion as there is a huge number of Buddhas and other saints in it already. So, most Japanese happily associate with both religions at the same time. Nowadays, people are not so pious, however, so they only go to Shinto shrines for New Year celebration and various festivals, and to Buddhist shrines when they have a death in the family.
The next stop of the tour was a community centre built in place of a demolished elementary school
. Since the number of births in Japan is declining, many schools are being destroyed for the lack of pupils. In the centre, Hirooka-san gave us a brief lecture on the history of Japan and Kyoto in particular. I've already heard that the Emperor has lost his power in 17th century and appointed the Shogun to unite and lead the country. One of the Shoguns felt threatened by the rising popularity of Christianity in Japan, so he adopted the policy of isolation, cutting of Japan from the outside world for nearly 300 years. That time is known as Edo period, because Japan's capital was moved from Kyoto to Edo (modern Tokyo). During that period, Japan enjoyed piece and economic growth and popular enjoyment of arts and culture.
Geisha culture was developed during Edo period as well. Geisha provide extremely expensive form of entertainment that only a few can afford these days and their expensive lifestyle is hard to support. The government of Kyoto even decided to subsidize them by paying half of the price of kimonos (which can be as expensive as a new car)
. A few years ago, all geisha activities were shut down in Gojo area by the main office (yes, apparently geisha have a main office that regulates their activities and rents them out to tea houses where they entertain guests).
Later in the tour we passed by an old workshop producing tatami mats and another that is famous for making green tea containers. Another fun stop was the original location of a house, where Nintendo corporation was started and their first office. Then we crossed the bridge over Kamo river and had some traditional Japanese pastries at a pastry shop (Japanese sweets are mostly made from rice and beans). Then we stopped by yet another shrine (Toyokuni), but a huge one, built by the emperor's government and not favoured by the people. The shrine also had a giant bell, apparently the biggest in Japan.
The final part of the tour was the pottery neighbourhood, where many artists work on painting tea cups, bowls, etc. We saw one of the famous artists at work in his workshop.
After the tour was over, we thanked Hirooka-san and walked to Gion area to buy tickets to the traditional geisha dance performance for tomorrow. Then we had some authentic sushi (if you think you know sushi, look up inarizushi) and crossed the river again towards the busy downtown area. We checked out a mall, but didn't find anything interesting, then we walked into a giant shopping arcade: a covered street filled with all kinds of shops, restaurants, shrines and even pachinko (gambling) parlours. There I got a custom-made stamp with my name so that I can sign documents Asian-style :)
On the way back to the hotel we also picked up some apples, as our diet here is pretty low on fruit.
Kyoto day 4: the regular Japan
Wednesday, April 09, 2014
Kyoto, Kinki, Japan
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1Arrival to Osaka
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2Osaka day 1: quiet temples and shopping bustle
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3Osaka day 2: castle and sakura blossoms
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4Kyoto day 1: temples and geishas
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5Kyoto day 2: temples, sakura and more temples
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6Kyoto day 3: temples, temples and more temples
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7Kyoto day 4: the regular Japan
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8Kyoto day 5: high culture day
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9Nara: deer and mystic forest
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11Gero: onsen town
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12Takayama festival
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13Tokyo day 0: Shinjuku
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14Tokyo day 1: from fish market to electric street
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15Tokyo day 2: Skytree and entertainment districts
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16Tokyo day 3: museum day
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17Tokyo day 4: Harajuku
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