Notodden, Vestfold og Telemark, NorwayLeisurely morning by the lake next to the campground in Odda.
Rv13 going back same way as yesterday. Different look to the lake and waterfalls in early morning sunshine. E134 east. Like yesterday, lineup of cars at Røldal tunnel but a shorter wait. Same funny guy directly traffic.
Horda tunnel a crazy sensation as it turned almost a complete circle while continuously traversing a 7% gradient.
Rv13 going back same way as yesterday. Different look to the lake and waterfalls in early morning sunshine. E134 east. Like yesterday, lineup of cars at Røldal tunnel but a shorter wait. Same funny guy directly traffic.
Horda tunnel a crazy sensation as it turned almost a complete circle while continuously traversing a 7% gradient.
Røldal Stave Church: Built between 1200-1250 it has a more classic church look than the other stave churches we visited. Famous for its important crucifix artifact. Once a year the crucifix overhanging the altar sweats and it was said the sweat was believed to have healing power. Walked around outside looking at all the old grave markers.
Vagslidtunnel closed--Lineup of cars: road around one lane, each way took turns. Waited about 15 minutes. Fun looking at the big fluffy sheep all along the mountainside. Yea, have to take Scenic road (Turistveg Den gamle Haukelivegen).
As we climb higher, got really windy and cold. Incredibly scenic deep blue lakes in rocky landscape, snowcapped mountains in distance.
Haukeliseter fjellstue: Scenic spot on Stavatn lake.
In the late 1800's people needed a place to stay at the half-way point over the mountains, so an inn and stables were built here. Now owned by the government. Still set up for hikers with food at the inn and several buildings, one from 1852.
A van had the Viking symbol on it: Vegvisir, The Viking Compass/Runic Compass, "which is believed to provide guidance for a person who might lose/lost his way. It would also be drawn on Viking ships before they set sail to ensure they would come back home safely."
Top of the mountain enjoying another lake-filled plateau. Waterfalls, awesome views of lakes, snowcapped and glacier mountains - WOW! Such a stark contrast from the fjord area we we were in this morning. Equally as beautiful.
Only drove another 5 minutes and another 10-minute tunnel upgrade wait. Lots of road work wait spots the entire way down the mountain.
Vinje tunnel cool blue and green lights in middle.
Heddal Stave Church - Notodden-: Built around 1250, it's Norway's largest of the surviving stave churches. Most beautiful of them all with the distinctive three towers and fantastic wood art. Got there late in day, and barely were able to get tickets for the tour inside.
Seems to be reaching for the sky with its many roof surfaces and carved dragon heads. Impressive sight!
Seems to be reaching for the sky with its many roof surfaces and carved dragon heads. Impressive sight!
- History: Influences from various historical eras can be seen in its decor. Restored in the middle of the 19th century and again in the 1950s. Steep, tiered roof and elaborate woodwork. its origins have some unusual roots. Legend says that the entire church, an enormous structure by stave standards, was built in just three days by five local farmers. Exterior was restored in the 19th and 20th centuries.
- Interior had serious changes under Lutheran control in the 16th century. In many Stave Churches, dragons and snakes (standing for evil) were sculpted because the Vikings used to fight evil with evil, dragon against dragon. In Heddal Stave Church, no less than 40 dragons are sculpted by the main entrance, fought by lions representing Christ. Gazing up in a Stave Church, its roof construction is often reminiscent of an inverted hull.
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Bishop Chair: Sigurd, the dragon slayer and the Valkyrie Brynhild are sculpted on this thirteenth century chair, itself guarded by two carved dragon heads to ward off evil powers.
Walls were painted in 1600's after the Reformation in the traditional Norwegian rose design.
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West Portal is most used entrance to the church today, but it wasn't always so. In the Middle Ages, women entered from the north side, men from the south side, and the clergy another entrance. The West Portal was rather used when children were carried to baptism. It was the belief that the devil had power over those that were not baptized. Therefore, this door had to have the strongest protective ornamentation. The carvings are a swarm of terrible snakes and dragons - "With evil shall evil be expelled." Left Column: a grotesque lion at the top -symbol of the victorious Christ; the lion of Judah. The figure stands in triumph over a bent over fantasy creature - the symbol of devilry. Right Column: The figures show two bears biting each other's jaw. They are locked in battle. This is how devilry would be bound, and therefore hindered from gaining access to the church.
- Priest's Portal: Ornamentation is especially rich with clear biblical references. The sculptural figures follow the rule of illustrating damnation on the left side and salvation on the right - the side where the door opens into the church. Figures on left refer to the Bible's text on the false prophet, the devil and the beast, who all end up in damnation. We see the flames of hell rising up on the man's right-hand side. This stands as a warning to the priests, to proclaim God's work purely and clearly, and avoid becoming a false teacher. Figure on right side of door shows the blessed servant of God, adorned with "the crown of life." The man is under attack by a Mare hanging on his back. But he gets help--an angel with three wings drags the creature away from him. Under the feet of the priest king lies a conquered dragon.
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Men's Portal: The portals mark the divide between two different dimensions. Outside the church was the transitory world, while The Kingdom of Heaven had its embassy inside the church. Here the people could receive blessings for body, spirit, and sol. The World outside was full of invisible, evil forces. These had to be kept out of the church. Snakes and dragons entwined in each other are carved around the man's door. These depictions were to keep out the ugliness. The two figures at the top of the columns have a message to those who wait in the exterior walkway. Left figure is a representation of the lost soul. He sits, constrained, in the gaping jaws of a monster. This is in contrast to the figure seated on the right-hand side. It is saved and "free as a bird."
Excellent tour guide! Definitely need one to get the full meaning and symbolism. Being able to visit some of the finest remaining stave churches in Norway was an unforgettable experience! Each one was unique in its own way.
NOTODDEN CAMPING AS - 1 night
No attendant; pay in box. A big field right next to a small airfield. Fun watching the small planes taking off/landing.
Facilities not very good. No place to dump gray water. Bad experience with the washing machine. It shut off about a minute after starting the wash cycle. Nobody here running the place - only a phone number that no one answers. Finished the wash cycle by standing there turning the washer on every minute. Sure not going to try the dryer so loaded up the wet clothes to dry tonight at the hotel.
McDonalds just down the street. Cousin loves their cokes and happy to finally get one. Some different menu items from ours in the states--sweet potato fries, fantastic ice cream sundaes. Attached to a nice little mall so, of course, couldn't pass up some shopping..
No attendant; pay in box. A big field right next to a small airfield. Fun watching the small planes taking off/landing.
Facilities not very good. No place to dump gray water. Bad experience with the washing machine. It shut off about a minute after starting the wash cycle. Nobody here running the place - only a phone number that no one answers. Finished the wash cycle by standing there turning the washer on every minute. Sure not going to try the dryer so loaded up the wet clothes to dry tonight at the hotel.
McDonalds just down the street. Cousin loves their cokes and happy to finally get one. Some different menu items from ours in the states--sweet potato fries, fantastic ice cream sundaes. Attached to a nice little mall so, of course, couldn't pass up some shopping..
2025-05-22