Urumbamba & Ollantaytambo

Saturday, March 07, 2020
Ollantaytambo, Cusco, Peru
Second day touring the Sacred Valley.  Drove through Ukaia, the village where Hernan's grandmother lives. Many house roofs are decorated with a Cross and a Bull & Cow statues (representing man and woman). 
                                URUMBAMBA
Issac dropped us by the old 1700s Church. Walked down the busy street bustling with people and lined with vendors. Most were local people doing their shopping; quite a few children too.

Randy needed an SD-Card for the drone and Hernan knew the exact store; yea for having a guide! 

Urumbamba Market--sensory overload! Meats, fruits, vegetables, grains, even dried fat (they waste nothing!)

Hernan had us try different fruit like a cherimoya, known as a custard apple but more tropical tasting. Local markets are always such a great experience. 

Pretty Main Plaza full of trees with a central fountain topped by an Ears of Corn. Each town's square has a statue significant to the town's culture.

Ice Cream place across from the main square: 3 scoops each for all 6 of us was $10; what a deal! Two little kids waiting, so bought one for each; so cute and shy saying thank you.
Original plan was to see Pisco Ruins; however, a landslide made it inaccessible; heading to different ruins. Drove through Ollantaytambo passing the impressive entrance and Inca walls.

The Main Plaza was full of people; celebration for "Day of the Woman."
                             PUMAMARCA
Called this because so many pumas live in the mountains here. About half hour hike up to ruins built on a steep Andean hillside overlooking the intersection of the Patacancha and Yuracmayo rivers. 

The first day of lots of walking and we are huffing, puffing, and out of breath every few feet as we ascend the hill. At these altitudes, we won't be going anywhere in a hurry.

Hernan opened the stick gate "my home is your home." Had the entire site almost all to ourselves most of the time.

Learned a great deal about the Inca history and beliefs. For instance, when they die, the Puma, Condor, Snake help spirits reach Pachamama, underground into the earth.

Randy flew the drone a little bit but wind and altitude were a problem. Hernan had never flown one so he had a new experience too.

Much larger complex than it initially looked. 
The magnificent panoramic view of the Sacred Valley as well as the chance to explore impressive ancient archaeological ruins uninterrupted, far away from tourists found at other sites, made this a very worthwhile experience.
  • History of Pumamarca: Once the ceremonial grounds of the Wari people before the arrival of the Incas, Pumamarca is a set of 24 structures built on a steep hillside of the Sacred Valley. The Wari Empire was a political formation that predated the Incas, emerging around 600 AD in the central highlands and lasting for about 500 years. When the Incas took control of Pumamarca, they transformed it into a military fortress because of its advantageous location overlooking the valley below. The important historical significance is it was one of the few places where the Spaniards suffered a military defeat against the Incas.
           OLLANTAYTAMBO 
Hernan prearranged a meal at Apu Veronica--chicken prepared on hot stone with french fries, salad with avacado, tomatoes. GREAT! 

Short walk along the street to the market.
Hernan pointed out the face seen in profile on the cliffs of the Pinculluna mountain overlooking Ollantaytambo. Said to be that of the creator God, Viracocha or Tunupa, of pre-Incan and Incan mythology.

Fortress - Passing through the entrance gate and looking at the gargantuan stone walls up the hill you see why these ruins are one of the masterpieces of the Incan Empire.

Keith and I walked up the imposing steep terraces amazed at the stonework. 
Paused frequently to catch my breath, looking back down at the incredible view. 


At the summit are six megalithic granite stones, known as the Temple of the Sun. Each stone is 50 tons; all the stones were dragged here from a nearby quarry--mindblowing!
The view on the other side of the top is equally remarkable. Can see the entire valley; perfect place for a fortress.
A pathway goes towards Balcon Pata, a narrow ledge to two large buildings and more terraces. Keith went up and over the mountain.

Fireworks went off as I reached the bottom; wasn't that nice of them.  I like to think it was for my accomplishment--really for a wedding. The descent back to the base goes to the Ceremonial Area, which is full of baths and fountains for both an irrigation system and a religious center. 

Water Temple--At summer solstice, the sun comes through the window and reflects in the water causing a rainbow. Two side alcoves used to have gold and silver statues--gold for "sweat of sun; silver for "tears of moon"
  • HISTORY:During 15th century Pachacuti, the Incan emperor, conquered the town of Ollaytantambo and built housing and terraces to farm the land for his people. This was his royal estate as well as a temple. Later when the Spanish arrived, Ollaytantambo was fortified, and became one of the last Incan strongholds to fend off the invaders. Despite victories in many battles, the Inca leader Manco abandoned Ollaytantambo and moved to Vilcabamba. The structures at Ollaytantambo survived the centuries.

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