Denali View North, Alaska, United StatesDENALI STATE PARK
Trapper Creek – Store??
As we leave – we drove by this
“all-junk-you-can-find-store” and Paul said we need to stop. I mean it is a
super unique shop – a few old rusty 50s vehicles, the best thing are the flags
hanging around like “Trump – keep America great”, “Alaska loves Trump”, “Don’t
blame me, I voted for Trump”. But then you need some Moose antlers, old lisence
plates, junk … you name it you find it here.
At Mt Kinnley – Wilderness Lodge
Our next stop was the Princess
Wilderness Lodge: we parked right at the front door – and then got the Tourist
picture and went back on the deck to have an amazing view over the Alaska Range
and towards the Denali. It’s sunny beautiful and still fresh – but really nice.
Inside they have lots of info on the Denali – as well a real fire – making you
feel warm. Who knows – maybe next year we are here again.
The Denali State Park:
- No, it’s not the national park: it is the 4th largest State Park in Alaska – and it is right near the famous Denali NP
- From this park you have the best views on the Denali
- They also say that you have some of the most scenic views in Alaska – I’m not so sure about that
Denali View point South
Is our first stop: we went over to the
viewpoint and look on the mountain covered in clouds – time for an early coffee
and snack and before we leave we head over again and we couldn’t believe our
eyes – the mountain was smiling at us: ok once you see this you understand what
they talk about: in the foreground you can see the mountains and then there
towers this white giant above them all – close to 2000m higher than the
surrounding mountains – which makes them look small – but they are actually all
over 3000 m high – very deceiving. And it is warm – the sun is out and we are
in shorts again.
The Great One: Denali
- It is North America’s highest mountain and has 17 glaciers, 6 of them are over 24 miles long
- Denali means “the Great One” and is 20310 ft high and it is still growing every year 3/4 of an inch due to the tectonic plates colliding: the Denali is a Pluton (which is hardened Magma) near the Denali fault system and pushed up by the Pacific Plate
- Formerly it was called Mt McKinley after the 25th president of the US, until in 2015 it got renamed Denali as this was the original name as per Barrack Obama
- From a plateau of 2000 ft you can see the whole mountain (by the way Mt Everest starts at is only 12000 ft from the plateau)
- How lucky are you to see it: 2 out of 3 days it is hidden in the clouds – on clear days you can see it all the way from Anchorage
- The mountain was first mentioned when Geroge Vancouver spotted a stupendous snow mountain from cook inlet in1794
- The early Russians called it Bolshala Gora “the big mountain”
- In 1896 a prospector named it for the president nominee William McKinley – even he had no connection to Alaska
- In 1903 Judge James Whickersham started to climb it and went up to 10.000 ft, Dr. Frederick Cook also tried the same year and went to 11.000 ft – he tried 3 more times and claimed that he reached the summit: but his description and questionable summit pictures doubt the claim
- The sourdough party with Tom Lloyd, Charles McGonagall, Pete Anderson and Billy Tayler claimed to have reached both the north and the south summit but couldn’t provide any pictrues of evidence – but the spruce pole they left behind on the north peak was witnessed in 1913
- The first ascent of true summit was made in June 1913 by Rev Hudson Stuck, Walter Harper an Athabascan, Harry Karstens and Robert Tatum – they were the first to go on the higher south peak. Harry Karstens became the first superintendent of the Mount Kinley NP but he always called it the Denali in respect to the natives
- How about today: since 1903 already 18.000 climbed the mountain, around 1200 each year, only 1 in 2 reach the peak, in average it takes 21 days to climb the mountain, average temperature in summer is between -12C and -45 C
Possible Campgrounds
Another question is always where will
we stay tonight: one option would be the south viewpoing, we then drove into
the K’esugi Ken Campground – but were not impressed as it is like a “paved”
parking lot and not really views, next stop was the Bryers lake: we were hoping
for a nice afternoon at the lake: first the campgrounds are not on the lake –
so no view, from the day use you have to walk to the lake – no you can’t even
see it, then there is the boat ramp with a tiny spot to put on chairs already
occupied and yes it looks like an ok-Lake (we saw many of those) and no it’s
not really special and the water is not clean enough for swimming – so we
decided to head on.
We decided to head to the North
Viewpoint and spend some sun-time there.
Alaska’s Veterans Memorial
On the way is the Veterans Memorial
and Gine said a quick 5 Min stop, ok it is kind of super cool a alcove with 5
concrete panels: one for each branch of the Military: The Army – the Marine
Corps – the Navy – the Air force – the Coast Guard. As we were here Paul talked
to a Vietnam War Veteran who was also here
- We read about the Gamble Chalk 1 plane which crashed in 1952 in the Alaskan Range, as the crew was unfamiliar with the Alaska’s radio navigation system they thought they are still on course and flew right into the mountain and were never heard off again. In 2016 they discovered some of the aircraft debris and using the knowledge of glacial movement they knew that the plane crashed into Mt Silverton at around 12.000 ft elevation, the plane was discovered 5 miles down the glacier and 6500 ft lower than the original crash side.
- Polar Threat: during the Cold War in 1949 the Soviets developed nuclear weapons and bomber capable of reaching the US over the polar region. The US built a system of radars, communication links, interceptor bases and missiles in Alaska and north Colorado. This gave the US time to destroy invading bombers while still in Alaska airspace.
Denali Viewpoint North
Arriving at the North Viewpoint, we
set up near a picnic table and yes Mandy run away again – so that meant after
she came back we permanently removed her normal collar and she got the H-collar
on, which will stay until the end of the trip, so we can easily put in the
leash.
Denali is covere in clouds – but still
impressive to look at. And what is even better from our spot we can actually
see the Alaskan Rane and the Denali (yes the top is in the clouds).
And it went from sun to cloud and back
– warm to cool – but then we always have this amazing view right in front of
us. And tonight we finally brought out the BBQ again!!! Yeah – no cooking
inside – can you believe it.
With sunshine for supper – what more
do you want.
- Did you know that those wide braided rivers are Glacier rivers: the Glacier grinds up rock, which washes into the river and then the rock sediements get carried downstream: as the sediments built up they form large gravel and sand bars and the river becomes clogged and has to find new routes through the gravel, many small rivulets and braids are formed as the river searches for the easiest path. A typical river is cut into a valley be erosion, a glacier river is filling the valley with sediment – this can create rivers which are up to a mile wide.
And Mandy goes exploring again
And we barely stopped she jumped out,
as we watch her she stays close and is a good car and as soon as we turn around
– whoops she is gone again. Yes she got back sooner than on the previous times,
but nevertheless everytime she runs it is a bit stressful on how long it will
take that we get her back. New Rule is in place as soon as she was back inside:
the normal collar went off and on the H-collar with the bell and this one will
stay on until the end of the trip – every time we open the door the leash goes
on. Funny once she went outside with the leash and discovered that she couldn’t
go much further she sits down and is happy.
You can’t see the Denali in the rain
We were hoping the rainy part is over,
no such luck – it starts raining during the night and we wake up yes to rain!!!
This morning you wouldn’t know there are mountains around you.
North on Parks Highway:
- It took them 12 years to built the Parks highway from anchorage to Fairbanks through some of the most rugged parts of Alaska: overall 576 km long – we will cross 40 bridges
- They say north from here over the Broad Pass is the most beautiful area of the Park Hwy (haha only not in the rain)
It’s cold – windy – rain we head north
to an RV Park
Already we decided as it is that cold,
we will head towards the NP and then stay for a night with electricity in an RV
Park. We didn’t really stop at most of the viewpoints: as there is not much to
see today.
Our first stop was at the Hurricane
Gulch a 550ft long bridge over a 260 ft long Gorge – we stopped and had a look
at it from the side and then I said to Paul I don’t get the people doing the
parks: they never make a viewpoint when there is a view but viewpoints with no
views, they built a bridge and tell you how great it is, but couldn’t add an
extra foot that people can safely walk over it, so they put a sign no pictures
on the bridge – haha like people listen to it. Oh and let’s not forget the
campgrounds “on the lake which are in the forest and not on the lake” or the
small walks at viewpoints through forest….
Soon after we stop near the CHultina
River, only had a glance at the Igloo from Igloo city (which is by the way
closed off and abandoned)
On top of the Board Pass
And as we approach the summit and
Board Pass at 2400 ft we can see the outlines of some mountains – the view from
here is amazing as you can see far (ok we couldn’t really see the mountains)
but it is super amazing, yes you do have the feeling that you are at the top of
the world
A quick windy stop in town
And then we approach the “busy
touristy” little town of Denali – we checked the RV park here out – no way!! A
crappy parking lot. We were heading 10 km out of town and came to Denali RV
park – it is super super windy – our whole camper shakes. Ok the price is
“Alaska normal” except we also have to pay for showers – guess that is life.
After a coffee and shower we decided to head back to town: walking along the
little Boardwalk gift shops… when we checked in the two “grocery stores”
something like fresh produce is not on the menu here.
We did went into the Denali Princess
lodge and out in the back, this is a whole little Princess Village and right
after it is the holland America lodge… guess the cruises do make a lot of
money.
As there is nothing else to do in the
town (and we decided we have enough jackets, T-shirts and sweaters) we decided
to head back.
It’s nice to be in the warm inside
And our plan today is to have a lazy
afternoon and evening in our warm camper…. Catching up with the diary and
pictures – and not doing a lot.
Waking up – it is still raining so we
did a late start of the day before heading towards the NP
2025-05-22