Quebec City

Tuesday, September 13, 2016
Quebec City, Quebec, Canada
After touring the Biosphere on Ile Ste-Helene, I had intended to take the panoramic and historic Chemin du Roy to Quebec City. Also known as King's Road or Route 138, it's Canada's oldest roadway, and runs along the north shore of the St. Lawrence River. However, I failed to mention this to Roger or Jack (GPS), and didn't realize my oversight until we were approaching Drummondville (we were on highway 20, on the south side of the river). Although there aren't many St. Lawrence River crossings between Montreal and Quebec City, luck was with us as there's a big bridge between Drummondville and Trois- Rivieres. Some quick reconnoitering, and a a little driving tour thru very quaint Trois-Rivieres, and we were on the Chemin de Roy to Quebec City. :)

The Chemin de Roy reminded me a little of driving on the Iles d'Orleans . Lovely villages and old houses on big lots backing the St. Lawrence River; crops (lots of mais sucre, aka sweet corn); produce stands with corn, apples, strawberries, pumpkins); cows; and casse croûtes (snack shacks!). I remember casse croûtes from trips to Quebec with Mom, Eva and Lorraine, and with Mom and Brienne. Yes, that's right ... we stopped for hotdogs and poutine (with squeaky cheese curds, apparently how they do it here, not melted like at home). ;-) 

Our accommodation for this leg is the circa 1845 Hôtel Manoir de l'Esplanade. It's perfectly located in Vieux Quebec Haute-Ville (Old Quebec Upper Town), just steps away from everything. Our room has a beautiful old stone wall and old fireplace. Very nice.

Our slower drive from Montreal got us here around 5 on Saturday. The calèches (horse-drawn carriages) have a parking compound in the park across the rue from us, and so they pass by our ground floor window and we can hear them clip-clopping by . Wonderful. We were chomping at the bit (pun not intended but it works!) to get out and explore. It was threatening to rain but it was very pleasant out otherwise, so off we went. Old Quebec is beautiful in the evening with all the lights on, and much more photogenic than against the dull grey skies. After walking for a while our poutine was worn off, and we stopped an the oldest restaurant in Quebec City, Café Bruade, for pea soup and crusty rolls. Mmmm. By then it was raining again so we dashed home.

The name Quebec comes from the Indian work Kebec, meaning "where the river narrows". The city was originally established by Samuel de Champlain in 1608. He liked the cliffs for protection, and set up the city at the foot of Cap Diamant (Cape Diamond, so named because Champlain thought there was gold in dem dere cliffs, but it was only quartz). As the settlement expanded, it could only grow in one direction - up. Hence Lower Town (Basse-Ville) and Upper Town (Haute-Ville) . The cliffs were a natural defence, but France wanted more protection and so, in 1745, built a wall surrounding what is now Old Quebec. The old walls were preserved by forward-thinking Lord Frederick Dufferin, who was governor general in 1873. They remain to this day, and Quebec City is now the only walled city north of Mexico. For this, it was named a UNESCO World Heritage site.
 
On Sunday, we took a calèche for a 45-min tour. We all know I mainly just wanted to meet the handsome and very large horse, Black. I've always wanted to take a calèche ride in Old Quebec. Lorraine - Etienne, the driver, is pretty good looking, has an adorable French accent, and lived in Mexico = speaks Spanish. Sounds perfect for you!
 
After our calèche ride, we attended French mass at Notre Dame Cathedral, then toured La Citadelle. Mon dieu, it was a cold and extremely windy day! Roger had to hold me down from blowing away a few times, so we hid in the beautiful Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac lobby for a bit before going for a traditional French-Canadian supper at a restaurant in the province's oldest house .
 
Having spent all of our time so far in Haute-Ville, it was time on Monday to visit Basse-Ville. The two are separated by the long, steep slope of Cap Diamant. When the settlement was first established, a set of stairs was built for people to move back and forth between the upper and lower towns. There's also a funicular, much easier for the climb back up. It travels 210 feet at a 45° angle, and has been in operation for over 135 years. We spent most of the day in Basse-Ville wandering around the quaint streets.

If you haven't already noticed, I've included more detail within some of the pictures. The background stories can be accessed by clicking on the photo, or by viewing the photos in slideshow mode.

We leave the cities behind now and head just a few miles east to Boischatel, in the St. Anné de Beaupre / Iles d'Orleans area. 


 

Comments

Eva & Doug
2016-09-13

Oh my .. this is a wonderful blog! I want to be there too. But now pay attention and get the route right :) But a little adventure is good!

Lorraine
2016-09-13

Agree with Eva, wonderful blog & well done! Brings back great memories of previous visits esp when we were there with Mom.

Lois
2016-09-14

I love following you on hour journey.

roganna
2016-09-14

Thanks Lois. It's great to know people are following our journey and
enjoying it with us. :)
On Sep 13, 2016 9:46 PM, wrote:

Ed & Joan
2016-09-16

Hi Anna and Roger .... We are enjoying the stories of your trip. Your comments about Quebec City brought back many memories for us! Ed

roganna
2016-09-16

Hi Ed,
We thought of you two in Quebec City. We walked by the hotel you stayed in.
Looked very nice. :)
On Sep 15, 2016 10:42 PM, wrote:
Hi Anna Lapierre,
Good news! Ed & Joan has posted a comment on your entry
titled "Quebec
City
".
*Entry:*
"After touring the Biosphere on Ile Ste-Helene, I had intended to take the
panoramic and historic Chemin du Roy to Quebec City. Also known as King's
Road or Route 138, it's Canada's oldest roadway, and runs along the north
shore of the St. Lawrence River..."
*Comment:*
*" Hi Anna and Roger .... We are enjoying the stories of your trip. Your
comments about Quebec City brought back many memories for us! Ed "*
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