From Sea to Sea and back

Wednesday, February 20, 2013
Las Lajas, Panama
Day 10 of vacation, I think. Dropped Tami and Dean off yesterday after what now feels like a whirlwind. After late Saturday night arrival in PC, spent the early hours of Sun morning at a casino where Dean and I both won, despite the free rum and cokes.. Jumped on a plane to Bocas Del Toro in the northwest corner of Panama Sun morn and headed to Playa Bluff Resort on the Caribbean Sea. Great place along a stretch of empty quiet beach only frequented by a few surfers. I'll have a permanent scar on my knee from when all 4 of us scaled the locked gate our first night. Somehow THAT seemed like a better idea than walking along the fenceline until we found the opening. But we did get to experience Charro, a local Indian, out cold along the road, later learning that he lost his horse and passed out in the bar. Booked a scuba trip for first thing Monday morning. At a depth of 60 feet, the coral and fish were less impressive than snorkeling near Bastimentos a few days later and seeing amazing colors of coral, remarkably the best we've seen anywhere. We were all thankful for a "practice" dive before venturing to Coiba though. We got to experience Bocas during CARNAVAL, which was a blur of El Diablo dancing in the street with a whip; eating black bean dips, people watching, and $1 beers.  

We left Bocas early Thursday morning. After 5 hours of cabs, ferries, and a bus ride through Panama's terrain, we made it to our rental car place in David. Jumping on the PanAmerican highway, we headed East. We didn't have time to stay overnight, but wanted Tami and Dean to experience the wide, beautiful and empty beaches of Las Lajas for an afternoon. Our stopping point this night was Santiago. Unsure what accomodations may be like there, we came upon La Hacienda hotel and casino ... in the exact place we wanted to stay... for less than we thought we'd have to pay. Sensing this as good fortune, we headed to the casino. Not as lucky this time, but judging by how I felt on the car ride the next day, we had a pretty good time anyway. Leaving Santiago, we headed South, or so we thought, being lost within the first 20 minutes. Luckily we figured it out next to a delicious Panaderia and loaded up with ham and cheese empanadas, tres leches, cinnamon churros and coconut treats. Turned South towards Santa Catalina and spent 3 hours driving on bumpy, curvy roads full of potholes, but every mile lined with stunning scenery... rolling hills, lush vegetation and flowering bougainvailla.  

The tiny surfing town of Santa Cat was our launching point for scuba diving and our 1 night camping trip on the island of Coiba. Coiba is the largest uninhabited island in the Americas, its only former occupants being a penal colony for most of the 20th century. It also boasts the biggest coral reef along the Pacific Americas. The 90 minute boat ride through the Pacific is indescribable... It's dotted everywhere with little spits of lush land with white sand beaches. Had two amazing dives, the second one we were surprized to learn was 64 minutes long under the sea! Saw fish of every shape and color feeding on the reefs and had schools of hundreds swimming by us. I got a little tired of seeing the divemasters sign for shark, as there were plenty of white tipped reef sharks lurking along the bottom. After our dives we joined our guide Michael at the ranger station for our camping trip. Paddled 30 minutes in a kayak to our own little beach. Put up our tents that he brought on the edge of the jungle and beach and marveled at the stunning beauty around us. As he prepared dinner, we watched a little mono drop coconuts at our feet, yet another reminder that coconuts kill more people than sharks!

Not knowing what to expect for the food he'd be serving, we were pretty impressed with the spaghetti made on a propane grill with a red sauce full of vegetables. Enjoyed a fire on the beach, hoping to no avail for just a glimpse of the famed crocodile Tito that lives on the island. Tami carried that fast -acting trauma kit all the way for nothing! 5 minutes after snuggling into our tents, heard a strange noise that left both Tami and I sleepless for the rest of the night. Well, probably not the noise as much as the hard ground and how cold it was without covers. Finally greeted by morning, fresh coffee and a breakfast of fruit, oatmeal and granola. Two more awesome snorkel stops on the way back (except for those damn jellyfish we had to dodge). As we were nearing SantaCat, noticed a fin in the water. The boat driver stopped and we were treated to a 'baby' whale shark, 20 feet long, circling and checking out our boat.  

Finally came Monday and another long car ride to get Tami and Dean back to the airport in David. We were able to shave over an hour off with a shortcut and had time to stop at Alouatta Sanctuary to visit the baby howler monkeys being rehabilitated and released back into the wild, as well as learn about the conservation efforts underway. What a treat!!!  

Michael and I correctly thought we'd need a few quiet, lazy days to recuperate after they left. We're in the mountain town of Boquette now, where we've read is the go to retirement place for Americans in Panama because of the perfect cool climate. Took a 2 hr muddy hike today through the thick jungle to reach three different waterfalls. The steep, mud slick trails consisted of exposed tree roots to grab onto and pull your way up and the occasional bamboo railing tied together with jungle vines. We were worried about running out of gas on our way back BEFORE we took the wrong turn. Luckily we passed many nice locals on the side of the road who would point in the right direction when Michael slowed and asked "donde Boquette?" We've been sitting on the patio of our hillside room, staring at Volcan Baru, the highest point in Panama. Off in the distance I hear various bird calls, crickets, dogs barking and roosters crowing. The wind is blowing and it is CHILLY, definately no cool mountain breezes for me in retirement! I want the beach!

Tami and Dean, you should finally be home by the time we post this. We really do miss you!

Photos & Videos

Comments

Pam Aul
2013-02-21

Thank you, Gina, for your wonderful description of your trip so far. I have been anxiously waiting for you to start your journal! Safe travels. Love, Pam

Jess
2013-02-21

Sounds so wonderful! Glad you are having a great time!!!!
Na-mast.
-Jessica

Lisa
2013-02-21

Sounds amazing! Thanks for the detail so we may all have a glimpse into your wonderful travels.

Ann
2013-02-22

Hope you continue to enjoy the rest of your trip!

2025-02-07

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