Well, we'd planned to spend three days in Son Trach -- the gateway to Phong Nah-Ke Bang National Park, and an hour and $25! away from Dong Hoi train station -- trekking and exploring its vast selection of caves...however... This was not to be our fate...

What? Another Typhoon?!

Casually going across road to the only backpacker style restaurant in sight, to find out about excursions, we were refer to the local trip expert . We eagerly laid out exactly what we hoped to do in the next few days. Then there was a pause. And a rather confused look (one of those "ah, stupid tourists" looks, you know the one). Before he informs us that it's just not going to happen.

Apparently, there is a (another) massive (70km wide) typhoon heading our way (we've been following one up north for the last week, thinking how lucky we've been to miss it). And if we stay we will be in a lot of danger (even the locals looked scared) and could get stuck here for up to 10 days!! So we should leave. ASAP.

Right. Ok.

So speedy speedy trip to the caves (maybe just one cave) in the morning before legging it on the next train? Mum wouldn't approve...but we came all this way!

Our verdict: it was worth the risk, even if it did meaning having to catch the 10hr local train, with hard sleepers, in the middle of the day (rather than an evening 8hr soft sleeper, as planned) . 'Why?' you say.

Because Phong Nha Cave is a true natrual wonder. It is nearly 55km long; though only the first kilometre or so is light and open to visitors, but that is enough. Boats from Son Trach cruse along the Son river, past bathing buffalo, jagged limestone peaks and church steeples to the cave's gaping mouth. Then the engine is cut and you're transported to another world, as you're paddled through catherdral-like cavern after cavern.

With our need to flee front-of-mind, we were the first onto a boat and so rewarded by complete tranquility inside the cave. As it should be. It was only on our way out that we realised how lucky we'd been, as the hoards of nattering tourists descended!