Under My Umbrella, Ella, Ella

Wednesday, March 04, 2015
Ella, Uva, Sri Lanka
After a week of baking hot humidity, early morning wakeups, and general low levels of cleanliness, I can't begin to describe how decadent it was to sleep in until past 8am this morning, then wake up in a giant bed with a snuggly duvet, and enjoy a hot shower with fluffy towels. The Glendower Hotel was definitely a nice stop on our trip. It was a bit odd, though- I think we were the ONLY ones in the 20-room hotel (which would explain the blissful silence in the morning). Our breakfast in the large dining room was utterly solitary, as was our walk in the garden. So as we set off for the train station for our 12:45pm train to Ella, we were confident that there were plenty of seats on the train. Oops. Apparently there were truckloads of tourists SOMEWHERE, and every reserved seat was sold out. We settled for 2nd class unassigned seats, and once that train pulled into the station, we moved like a bat out of hell to ensure we weren't going to be the suckas who ended up sitting on the floor (like most developing countries, Sri Lanka believes that cattle class on trains and buses is "sold out" only when no more humans can be smushed into every possible space). We managed 2 non-window seats, one in front of the other. Why the competition for this train? Apparently this 2 1/2 hour train ride is considered one of the most scenic on earth.


As we chugged away, we both watched expectantly out the windows, awaiting the oncoming dazzlement we'd been promised. And then of course it started to rain. And I don't mean a sweet mountain mist. I mean, it's the end of monsoon season, and it went from clear sunny morning to gushing downpour in about five minutes. So, our lovely scenery was reduced to misty gray. After an hour or so, however, the sun came out, and we passed small villages, waterfalls, and tea terraces hewn into the mountainside. It was lovely, but since I'm not the family train nerd, it wasn't as spectacular to me as our guidebook had promised.

At 3pm we pulled into Ella's train station. Ella is a tiny town, even higher up in the mountains than Nuwara Eliya. It is known for lovely walks through the mountain paths, tea farms, and cozy guesthouses. Our little guesthouse was just a 10-minute walk from the station, and we were cheerfully greeted with a proper afternoon tea and cookies. Like most Sri Lankan guesthouses, this guesthouse was the family's home, with a small addition of 2 ensuite rooms. It was snug and dry (because it was pouring AGAIN), and had a lovely view over Ella's green mountains.


We took advantage of a break in the rain to walk one of Ella's most popular paths up to Little Adam's Peak. It was gorgeous, and being that very few people were stupid enough to venture out after the rains, we were nearly alone on the paths (and if it looks like we're laughing at something in that photo, we are. I'm not at liberty to say exactly what, however. A marriage has to have a few secrets, you know). Afterward, we warmed up with a pot of tea at a small cafe's terrace near the park. I must say I've never had a lovelier view with my tea.

We went to a nearby guesthouse for a dinner of Sri Lankan rice and curry (the national dish), and headed back to our room around 8pm. It's odd, we didn't do very much today- slept in, got on a late train, took a walk, drank way too many pots of tea- but strangely it feels like a full, happy day.

I'm not going to lie- I'm quite looking forward to leaving tea country's chill and rain behind and heading to the southern beach region tomorrow. While Ella was lovely, it was a bit too quiet and remote (and chilly!) for us- tomorrow, we head to Tangalla on Sri Lankan's beachy south coast.

Comments

Kristin
2015-03-04

I am definitely jealous of your tea-drinking vacation. Eventually, I would want my coffee, but every meal sounds so...quaint.

Michael Sheldon
2015-03-05

I love that picture of your walk up Little Adam's Peak! Thanks for keeping those of us back home informed of your adventures.

sql_spice
2015-03-05

Holy crap someone besides Angie and my mom are reading my blog. :)

I LOVE TEA. I love tea service even more. This place is heaven for that. Quaint and charming, indeed.

Mike it is good to hear from you :) Give Miss P a hug for us!!!

2025-02-08

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